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Wichman

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Everything posted by Wichman

  1. Ray, His profile says he was on last Friday. He just isn't posting.
  2. Ditto I just used the program to link some letters together, such as I do for the "name with a rose" items. I was able to use both the "Union" and the "Combine" functions, independently of one another. I am using Inkscape 1.3.2 (1:1.3.2+202311252150+091e20ef0f) on an older Linux machine.
  3. The problem is that it's not just the dust; it's also the organic vapors from the wood, the smell of fresh cut wood if you will. Those organic vapors are what will enter through the eyes and skin. Long sleeve shirts, pants (not shorts), respirator ( with OG filters) and eye shields (safety glasses) are indicated. Changing clothes when you are done cutting and within a few minutes taking a shower to remove residue and using a nasal cleanser are also wise precautions. Once you are sensitized to one type of wood your resistance to others is reduced. I'm not saying you have to do these things all the time, with every type of wood, but if you know you have a sensitivity, then..... After the wildfire disasters several years ago ( 3 to 4 months of continuous heavy smoke ) I am sensitized to just about all wood. After 23 years of military service I'm using to suiting up for chemical exposure (MOPP gear).
  4. Update: All are cut out, it's supposed to be in the 40's the next four days. I'll be able to get everything finished.
  5. Welcome to the Village For one of your first project may I suggest..... A lucet. It should check a lot of boxes. Scroll saw sewing historical cordage For a free pattern got to: https://www.stevedgood.com/catalog/index.php search for lucet
  6. Here's the first of seven angels I'm making for the girlfriend for Christmas, when done they'll spell out " Let It Go" ( her favorite saying ) I'll also get 7 snowflakes .
  7. A note to isolating a bad bearing: use a mechanics stethoscope, alternately use a 24" piece of 1 x 2 lumber. you can place one end of the 1 x 2 against the bearing and the other end close to your ear, you will be able to hear the rumbling of a bad bearing. A second method is to use a non contact thermometer. Run the machine for a few minutes then turn the machine off and use the thermometer to check the bearing temps. A hot bearing is a bad bearing; hot is 140 degrees or more. significantly hotter than the other bearing is suspect .
  8. There are many YouTube videos on this. If you decide to try this look up the vids showing the safety aspects of melting, not burning, the plastic. Personally, I'll pass, I remember the creep crawly thing maker fiasco from the 60's and 70's.
  9. About 30 years ago I worked at a restaurant, in the back was an electrical panel with 2 breakers and no cover for the breakers. Fire Dept finally flagged it as an offense, Store manager asked me to fix it. I had a local sheet metal shop make me up a panel out of 18 gauge steel. I carefully marked out the opening for the breaker, then, using a mini hacksaw blade chucked into my Sears 20" "Professional" scroll saw cut out the openings. As Fab4 has stated, loud, really really loud ( foam earplugs + over the ear muffs; and it was still loud). Finished the monstrosity and installed. Done and passed all inspections since. It was cut out of 1/8 plywood, but I cut a butterfly valve for a carburetor once. Not on purpose but I have cut pin nails used to hold alignment on stack cut patterns. Its tough on the blades but they cut. I have cut, steel, plastic, acrylic, copper, leather. And the list goes on.
  10. Jerry, I was having similar issues with Basswood. This morning I picked up a can of "Static Guard" at the local Krogers, in the laundry dept. It works fairly well, enough that I'll keep a can around for the issue.
  11. We mostly used this for the mat board, we used another version 1/8" wide for adhering fillets ( wood ) to the mat board.
  12. I have used this stuff extensively while working at an art publishing business. Miles and miles of 1/2"wide tape rolls used in a special dispenser call a ATG gun. There are several grades of adhesive; from kinda repositionable (until seated with pressure) to "oh crap that never moving". All the grades of adhesive can be removed with heat (we used a laundry iron with no water in it). I didn't know it was available in wide rolls though. I may have to try a roll or two. Once set, we would pound the material with the heel of our hands, it is permanent.
  13. I use 1/8" and 1/4" Bass wood from Hobby Lobby, mostly. The size of the ornament generally determines the thickness I use; larger/thicker, smaller/thinner. Hobby Lobby is sub optimal for sourcing for production work, never can tell when they will have more product. They also have 1/16" plywood, I haven't bought any so I can't speak to the quality of the material. I've never tried ordering online from them although that is an option. I was surprised that the basswood held together for the pine needles in the Idaho ornament, but it's been fine. (I cut 16 ornaments in stacks of 4, not a single failure). Last year I used 1/4", but this year I used 1/8" (not sure why)
  14. This was an annual show in the town I live in (pop 60,000). A number of the attendees' also go the the Farmers market I was selling at, so there is some crossover. My most expensive item sold was $20, and I sold a bunch of them. I know that many of the major retailers are panicking because black Friday just didn't happen. I went to Wal-mart Monday to get a new phone and the black Friday deals were still in effect, in years past if you missed BF you were just SOL. It's a brave new world out there, and we're just going to have to adapt.
  15. The show was a disappointment. Overall sales were okay, but the vast majority of the sales were made in 2 hrs on Saturday (between 1 and 3 pm). Sunday's sales were 10% of Saturdays sales. At least 40% of my sales were to other vendors, it's great that they are supporting me, but that's a really bad sign for the show. Sigh, there's always next year.
  16. very nice
  17. If you have glue squeeze out on a 90 degree line the flat sander can get in close to clean up the edge. The flat sanders aren't very useful for sanding an entire project, but rather for fixing details. When I made the vanity tray I missed a spot on the tray, the oscillating tool allowed me to fix it without disassembly On the fancy wand with a crystal the small flat detail sander allowed me to sand both the inside and outside of the end and keep it flat and square. The big advantage the oscillating tool has is that it won't grab the piece and throw it across the shop.
  18. For that area I would use a Dremel drum sander. There are sanding drum available to 600 grit, so you would be able to match your 320 grit primary sanding. For intricate inside fretwork I either use the saw blade as I'm cutting or if I miss the defect while cutting I will use a diamond bead reamer for the Dremel. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018MNCZ4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These are also useful in cleaning up small pilot holes to make threading the blade easier.
  19. Thanks, These are stack cut 4 at a time from 1/8" basswood, pattern was from Scroller, blades are FD Polar #1 throughout, dipped in 50/50 shellac three times. I can't believe the pine needles hold together until I get the shellac on.
  20. Don, Both pictures have a item with the heart showing. The heart is located just above the "O" and can be mistaken for one of the potato eyes.
  21. All the Idaho ornaments with a heart sold. I just fixed the pattern so that all the patterns have hearts (I had half with and half without). I also fixed the heart so that it's just and outline now, instead of being solid (easier to cut).
  22. 16 "Idaho" ornaments finished for the show today.
  23. HF is a great way to test out whether a new style of tool will work for what you are trying to do. For $34 (tool plus two heads) you can tell if this is going to work, if it does then when the cheapo dies, upgrade. HF sells two different detail sanding head, so be sure to check both (or buy both).
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