Wichman
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Everything posted by Wichman
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This is a tip from someone who does not like big blades ( I normally use a #1, will occasionally use a #3, and the largest I have ready is a #5.) Use the largest blade that will make the curve. The width of the blade will help "even out" the curve. Of course, you can go to far:
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Even the military uses "Crawl, Walk, Run" in their training. Just go with the flow for now, you're doing fine.
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I painted the ends with odds and ends paint from the local Ace Hardware. This was before it was slabbed. I let the 1/2" panels dry for about 8 months, then stored them inside my shop. I'm in Southeast Idaho and it is fairly arid here, the gentleman with the lumber mill came by and did a moisture check and gave the thumbs up for storage.
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From the top pull down menu Edit> Preferences> Interface> Theming> Uncheck the "use dark theme" box
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My one regret when I started scrolling.
Wichman replied to GrampaJim's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I started a folder on a thumb drive. I take a picture of the item, the file name is the person and the date. I have individual folders for immediate family and generic folders for others. -
I like the color.
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I had to take down a large elm in my front yard. The gentleman who cut down the tree has a band saw lumber mill. He slabbed the tree up for me, 1/2" slabs, and I air dried them in my yard. I ended up with 135, 1/2", slabs and 25 2" slabs. The largest slabs are 18 to 20" wide and 100 " long. The sawyer was not able to cut the largest section of the tree as it would not fit in the saw bed (too big).
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Wolf profile by Steve Good, Arrowhead design by U.S. Forest Service. 1/4 elm, FD #1 Polar blade for the interior cuts, #3 for the outside. 1 Coat thinned BLO followed by 3 coats of thinned shellac. Made three one already sold. Size 11 x 14 Stack cut all three at the same time.
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I made a Thing
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- monster mash
- scroll saw challenge
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I zoomed in on the image of your cutting and wow, did you even try to sand off the fuzzes or was the piece just too fragile? As you can see the image is copyrighted by nine-finger Jo, they are an Etsy seller out of England, Their Etsy shop is on hold right now as they are taking a break, so they cannot be asked for permissions. Someone else had the idea to add flame color to the background.
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The arrowhead plaque was still wet with BLO when I took the first picture. Here is a side by side with the "actual" piece on the right and the drop outs forming another wolf on the left, I am trying for a twofer (sixfer? I stack cut 3, 1/4" plaques). Cleaning this type of project is super easy, canned air. Need I say more. (and I do understand your personal preferences).
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This is not glued yet. I used the negative cutting as a template to place all the pieces accurately.
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In my quest to utilize the most wood possible, I made a pair of earrings to judge how well they are received at the market: Can you tell where I got them?
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Here's an ornament by our own fearless leader Travis:
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A word on rock hardness. A few years ago I though of a solution to canopy weights at the market. My idea was to drill holes in rock and insert eye bolts, turn them over at the end of the market and leave them. I tried masonry bits, they drilled though cinder block like butter, on rock they scratched the surface but would not penetrate; this with a drill press on slow (175 rpm). Hegner has diamond blades ( currently unavailable ) and a water system ( foot pump ). If you use the water system it would cool the blade and control the dust. If you tilt the table forward and put a catch tray underneath it would control the mess. If I were to try this I would use a pet waterier; adjustable flow and a replaceable filter would take care of water issues.
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Speaking of that 13" saw with the 3" pin end blades; I made one of these with that saw, really had to learn how to cheat to get the fine cuts: drill a series of holes to make a slot pull the pin out of the top of the blade thread the blade through the slot reattach the pin (or use a safety pin)
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Jimmy, I started scrolling in '85. My first saw was a Sears 13" "hobby saw" that used 3" pin end blades and there were only 3 types of blades. Since I have CDO (Compulsive Disorder, Obsessive) (it's sorta like OCD but the letters are in alphabetical order as they should be) I did nothing for the first three week but cut practice cuts, boring, yes, but the training was very helpful. My first cuts were not nearly the quality yours are, kudos. Here is a closeup of a fancy fretwork welcome sign. As you can see, the cuts are not perfect, but if you look at the piece as a whole it's difficult to see any errors. Most peoples eyes see the whole item and they don't see the individual frets. In fact, IMHO, most people can't actually see the details, their eyes just can't do it. Here's the whole thing:
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This is a custom order that took far to long to complete. I had several technical issues that I had to resolve. 2 layers 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood, not sure the blades probably FD Polar, pattern based on a Steve Good design and customized by myself. The end stripes are snug but can be removed to attach/detach from a wall.
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From a Steve Good Pattern. A couple of Lucet's. 1/2" Elm, FD #1 polar for the inside cuts, FD #3 polar for the outside, one coat BLO. Quarter for scale. Just something quick for the market.
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A new batch of ornaments. 1/8" Baltic plywood, stack cut 5 layers, hand painted with glitter glue then three coats of shellac mix. FD#1 polar blades for all the cutting.
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Seriously people, no Adams Family fans here? How about Dirk Gently? A picture from the market:
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Are the letters free standing or holes?
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Pictures, or it didn't happen.
