Wichman

I have three methods to use to drill holes. 1. cordless Dremel tool with a drill chuck accessory combined with a Dremel plunge router attachment. a. advantages; quick easy portable, unlimited throat ( no cord ). b disadvantages; limited power (generally not an issue), limited run time ( generally not an issue ) not suited to some of the drilling tasks that I have ( edge drilling ). 2. Drill Press, along with a micro chuck for those tiny bits ( #71 ), cross slide vise for precision edge drilling. a advantages; no running out of power during a long run of drilling holes. Precision for some edge drilling tasks, the double lidded basket that I'm working on needs hinge pin holes drilled in the edge of the lid, it's an 1/8" hole in a 5/16 thick piece, that leaves 3/64 on the sides, not much meat and I can't miss, the cross slide vise allows me to clamp the lid to be drilled and adjust exactly where the drill bit will enter the piece 3. drill guide for a handheld drill. This is Okay for rough work but just doesn't have the precision that I want.

I've used that saws 2 speed varient for 20+ years (recently got a Hegner, so the 2 speed is now a back up or show saw). These are great saws if the bearings are good. The blade clamping system takes a little getting used to but I prefer it over every other clamping system I have ever used, and that includes the Hegner, For fretwork, using the same size blade, the clamp can't be beat. Seconds to change holes, literally seconds; and zero blade slippage, and that's without have to do anything to the blades. The blade clamping system one real weak point is changing blade size, there is some crossover for sizes but if you're switching from a #1 to a #9 you'll have to adjust the upper clamp.

I just now went through my Dremel plunge router attachment, I was able to reduce the "slop" to darn near zero. Here's what I did with pictures My plunge router adapter, yours may vary: I'm using a cordless Dremel, with a micro usb charge port. I can recharge the battery without having to remove the multitool. I bought the three jaw drill chuck adapter, also Dremel brand, no messing with various collets. Unscrew the two flat tip screw that hold the head on: Using the apropriate wench tighten the posts, there are bolts in the bottom of the base. reassemble. Pretty simple, tightened up the slop really well. Additionally; I lubed the shaft and bearing that locks the shaft. The goal is to reduce slop by tightening the stop while still allowing the head to move up and down the shaft freely. I used micro fine Teflon powder that I bought from https://www.howardpianoindustries.com/micro-fine-ptfe-powder/ I know you're in SA, but this may give you the lead you need to find some locally to you, other wise just a light coat of a good lube.

One more picture and a note. I use a #65 drill bit for the pilot holes (.035") I drilled them at the far upper right hand side at the tip of the wing and at the upper right hand where the two fingers meet, this is so I can "hide" the hole within the pattern. Finished piece, many light coats of rattle can shellac:

re: trees

I took a break from the basket to make a gift for a friend. This is an example of why I like to use small blades, I get twofors. First picture is the fallout glued to a precut plaque (the gift). The second is the opening, this will become a gift for my granddaughter, I thinking of attaching a picture ( or pictures ) in the opening. If I do I'll post the results. ? Wood: 5/16" Elm, Blade: FD Polar #1 for the inside cut, #3 for the outside Time: about an hour of cutting. Pattern: found on a facebook group. Finishing, one coat BLO 50/50 with MS, The plaque will get 2 coats rattle can shellac.

Here is a link to the artists website : https://larrymarley.com/index.php

don in brooklin, Insane dust maker's real name is also Don, and the message was for him. While playing around with the settings on Inkscape I found that if the "brightness detection" is set at zero, no live preview will show, so I was wondering about his settings.

Insane Don A couple of questions: 1. do you have "live preview" selected? If so then: 2. do you get an image in the preview window? 3. what "detection mode" are you using? 4. can you give us a screen shot of your settings?

I was just looking at the Inkscape dl page for Mac's and there are two versions, one for intel architecture and a different one for arm64 architecture. Do you have the right version for your Mac's chip set?

check your messages.

At the shop I retired from they had a laser, a universal 1000. I tried engraving some wood and while it worked it was sub par at best. For me it was the lack of contrast and the grain structure of some of the wood (oak) interfering with the "readability" of the laser lines. On Baltic Birch or Maple the lines stand out well, but oak or walnut just don't have the contrast for this to be doable.

I stand when I need more maneuverability. Sometimes I stand to the side of the saw to get a good approach angle. Sometimes you need to be a contortionist.

I did find the "pages" tab. It was hidden at the location you described. I had to move things around so that it would show. Thanks.

It is set to 11 x 17 And here is the print preview

Here are screen shots of when I try to print 11 x 17 and a picture of the result . Also in the first screen shot there is no pages dialog box or icon on my Inkscape workspace. Thank you for taking the time and making the effort to help The result: And again, when I print 11 x 17 from a .pdf reader or libre office it will print just fine, just not from Inkscape.

Inkscape will not let me print 11 x 17 from within Inkscape. When I forced it to print on an 11 x 17 sheet of paper the image was reduced to 8.5 x 11. Yet I can save the file as a .pdf then print full size from a .pdf viewer, and I can print 11 x 17 from Libre office, both text files and drawings. I asked about this on the Inkscape chat page, but they want me to jump though hoops to report a "bug", and I'm already wasting enough time, I've got a work around that works. Every time there's an update to Inkscape I try again, but so far, no dice. FYI when I open a multi page .pdf Inkscape shows distinct pages, not just one big page. But I can't find a way to do that from within Inkscape itself. Thing that make you go humm.

I won't argue the container vs format because when I scan to .pdf with my printer/scanner it does not work the same as a .pdf from Steve Good. I have to convert all large patterns ( larger than 8.5 x 11 ) to .pdf because Inkscape refuses to print any larger ( long story ). The spice rack pattern required that I rotate the pattern to fit it on an 11 x 17 (tabloid size roughly equivalent to A3 ) so I could have the pattern in one piece and not have to cut and paste it after printing. It's one of the reasons I got the wide format printer/scanner. Over size patterns is the reason I picked up a large format printer 24" wide x 50 foot rolls of paper. Haven't used it yet, but still. One reason not to upload files to be "fixed, or adjusted" is copyright issues. Modifying patterns to your personal preferences is one thing, uploading them to a platform where they can be "shared" is quite another. (poo poo occurs).

Here's the message: I'm no guru, but I'll try to help. I am using Inkscape 1.3.2 (1:1.3.2+202311252150+091e20ef0f) on a Linux computer system. To change the stroke color; select the object to be changed; click on a line in the object, a dotted line box with eight two way arrows should appear around the object. To change the stroke. color hold the shift key and select (click on) the color desired Things to check: Open the fill and stroke dialoge box ( object > fill and stroke ) Select "stroke paint" just under the Fill Stoke paint stroke style row there are selection boxes to allow the stoke paint to be modified, for now select "flat paint" the second from the left hand side. now go to the "stroke style" tab and select width 0.1 ( so you can see it, adjust later as needed ) Dashes select the solid line and 0.00 here are screen captures of my settings fill: stroke paint: stroke style: Please let me know if this helps.

In the new versions of Inkscape .pdf files are automatically converted to .svg files and trace bitmap will not work on them ( trace bitmap only works on bitmap files ) If you will revisit my message on Feb 8th it will walk you through the steps, if you still can't get it to do what you want, please post again. And please let us know if you get it.

The replacement. The original was too small for the current size spice jars. About 20% larger. Expanded the pattern so that it uses 5/16" wood rather than the 1/4" in the original. Had 5/16" with the yellow edges, so I used it for decorative effect.

found it

I can't find the pattern on here, butt; stool sample ( a small stool, compound cut, that will fit in a pill bottle. The staff at the VA clinic laughed their butts off when I made one for my primary )

I will cut for 30 minutes and take a 5 to 10 minute break. I have an analog clock to keep track of hours spent on a project and I use that for breaks as well. Many years ago I spent three days solid on a project, stopping only for food and bathroom breaks. That's one reason for the clock.