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Wichman

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  1. Wichman
    Just an empty link for me For me, sharing a picture is "Drag files here to attach, or choose files" click on "choose files" the "choose files" opens a dialogue box to upload a file to this website once the file is uploaded, then the "insert file" must be clicked on. Note, the "insert file" is not visible until the cursor is directly over it.
  2. Wichman
    To make a custom adapter for the vacuum port you can use a plastic water bottle ( disposable ) and a heat gun. The heat gun will shrink the plastic so that it's tight. #2, what Kevin said.
  3. Wichman
    I've started on my next project, hopefully I haven't bitten off more than I can chew This will end up being a fishing rod rack, but I want it fancy for my Son in law. I found the pattern for a round end table with a dragon motif, the legs are dragons, and the top has a lot of veining cuts of a fire breathing dragon. I also wanted it to spin on a lazy Susan bearing. I've got all the parts and pieces together to be able to begin the project. The base will be a 2 inch thick 12 inch diameter slab of Elm, then the lazy Susan, next a solid 1/2" Elm circle, next layer will be another 1/2" Elm disk with recesses cut for the butt of the fishing poles as well as recesses for the bottom of the dragon legs. The legs come next with a 3/4 square center support, topped the the 12" diameter top. The top will have slots for the top of the fishing poles to set in. My plan is to finish with "latches" for the top of the rod fashioned from extra tail sections. Picture of the original table:
  4. Wichman
    Hot off the saw 3/4 Poplar, 2 1/2 inches by 8 1/2 inches, quarter for scale. FD Polar #1 blades. BLO with shellac topcoat.
  5. Wichman
    Kevin, you can get small circular saw blade for the rotatory tool from HF: https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/rotary-oscillating-tools/rotary-tool-accessories/6-piece-hss-saw-blade-with-mandrel-set-67224.html If these are not to your liking and you want the oscillating tool, then I would recomend the half moon saw blade, it is very adjustable sod you can adjust the depth of the cut: https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/rotary-oscillating-tools/multi-tool-accessories/round-half-moon-blades/3-12-in-bimetal-steel-half-moon-blade-for-oscillating-multi-tools-63131.html
  6. Wichman
    At the top of this page: community > member gallery > scroll down to the galleries, not far, click on blue button > add images > follow prompts.
  7. Wichman
    If you would please, go the the member gallery, start a gallery and post some projects that you have done. While you are there poke around and view some of the projects other have done for inspiration.
  8. Wichman
    https://www.feinschnitt-kreativ.de/projekt/stern-ueber-betlehem/ Google image search is your friend
  9. Wichman
    Fancy Horse, Steve Good pattern. 3/4 "blue" pine tongue and groove wood ( although the pine is mostly brown, cut with FD Polar blades; # 2/0 for the interior cuts and #1 for the outside. 4 3/4" tall by 6 " long. I reduced the size of the pattern to fit the piece of wood, I had to use the smaller blades due to the reduction.
  10. Wichman
    2. drill holes at each end of the line drawn: Drill holes along the line as closely as possible. Once the holes are drilled (as many as possible ), using very mild sideways pressure use the drill bit to cut sideways between the holes, go slow and only a small depth at a time. This slot was created with a Dremel and a #72 (.025) drill bit. I started with the plunge router attachment to drill the line of holes; then switched to the Dremel handheld (choked up on the bit) to create the slot: A picture of the slot with the blade installed:
  11. Wichman
    There is a part 2; making the slot for the blade. 1. Using the blade to be used, draw a line within the pattern as a guide for drilling the slot:
  12. Wichman
    More information about "Modifying Pinned Blades"
    There are two main types of scroll saw blades: pinned and pinless blades. Scroll saw hobbyists prefer pinless blades because they offer a greater variety in blade choice, can cut more intricate details, and can make smaller inside cuts. On the flipside, pinned blades are designed for construction and general woodworking where precision and detailed cuts are not needed. The main disadvantage of pinned blades is that you have to drill a larger pilot hole (6mm) in your workpiece to thread your scroll blade through to accommodate the pins set into the blade. This severely limits the detail you can cut into a project. However, not all is lost. @Wichman, in this thread, describes how to modify a pinned blade so you can do more delicate inside cuts. His process is described below. Tools You’ll need: Pinned scroll saw blade Safety pin Needle nose plyers Vice grips Step 1 We want to remove only the pin from the top of the blade. The bottom pin will remain in place. With the vice grips, lock onto the pin at the top of the blade so it doesn’t move. Step 2 With needle-nose pliers, wiggle the blade side-to-side (not end-to-end lengthwise, or the blade may break). The pin will eventually slide out of the hole in the blade. Step 3 The safety pin should now fit into the hole left behind from the removed pin. Using your modified blade A small spring clamp will keep your blade engaged in the lower clamp while you thread the blade through the pilot holes in your workpiece. Note that the bottom pin is still in place and wasn’t removed during the conversion process described above. Once threaded through the pilot hole in your workpiece, slide the safety pin through the hole in the top of your blade where you removed the pin. This will allow your top blade holder to secure your blade for cutting. Example Here is an example of a project made using this process. As you can see, if you cannot use pinless blades for whatever reason, you can convert them so you can still do intricate interior cuts and still make amazing projects. This article was adapted from this thread and edited by @Travis.
  13. Wichman
    How did you get the pattern to stay? Very nice cutting.
  14. Wichman
    Very nicely done Tyler, the wood is most likely "blue pine" but the blue staining is brown, like this piece:
  15. Wichman
    Sorry for the delay. I was under the weather and yesterday my son was in (scheduled) surgery for 4 hrs, a long day. Here is a drawing of the molding with where to measure, using my method. Are you following me so far?
  16. Wichman
    Is this the finished size of the panel?
  17. Wichman
    Throw me a bone. What is a frame size we can use for a demonstration?
  18. Wichman
    What is a frame size that you would typically use?
  19. Wichman
    Where did I lose you?
  20. Wichman
    Jimmy, in my experience the easiest and most accurate way to measure the length of the frame piece is to measure at the rabbet. The only calculation needed is to add 1/8" for "wiggle" room. For example; you're wanting to build an 11 x 14 frame, you would add an 1/8" to the length of each piece, so 2 pieces 11 1/8" and two pieces 14 1/8. Using a 45* tool (speed square, for example) mark a line on one end of your stick of molding (or just cut a 45 off one end); at the rabbet measure 14 1/8", mark a 45* line, measure from the outside marks to determine the length, use this to set the stop so that both pieces are exactly the same length. Rinse and repeat.
  21. Wichman
    I like it. I like it a lot.
  22. Wichman
    I've used this style before, but I can't find mine right now. Just an idea for an alternative style of sled. All of the saws in the commercial framing business I worked at had a adjustable stop that featured a reverse 45* bevel that formed a pocket to fit the frame into so that the frame wouldn't be able to creep. the style I referred to: https://www.amazon.com/Rockler-45-Degree-Miter-Sled/dp/B0186IPNCM/ref=pd_ybh_a_d_sccl_1/141-1356443-9605339?pd_rd_w=DmW1Q&content-id=amzn1.sym.67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_p=67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_r=0AH64H39YPK30EM0Y3RP&pd_rd_wg=Gj9Sf&pd_rd_r=a653147f-a65d-448d-8db7-0380c8172cb6&pd_rd_i=B0186IPNCM&psc=1
  23. Wichman
    Ray, I've been looking at the pattern. Are you sure you got all three lines of the outside of the pattern (the squares)? If you only got the dashed inside lines it would print 1/4" short.
  24. Wichman
    I wonder how this compares to tiger wood? I was given a tiger wood 2 x 4 x 8 ft board left over from a deck project. Not sure I if even want to mess with it.
  25. Wichman
    I have used all the methods mentioned so far here's my take (for what it's worth) pin nails Pro: very good at holding the stack and keeping it from moving. Con; have to have or buy a pin nailer, I use hardwood and the pins would bend inside the wood and be in the pattern line ( this is very bad for the blades) double sided tape Pro: works well, adds lubrication to the blades Con: removing the tape can be problematic, wood fibers may come off with the tape. Hot glue: Pro: works well Con: I've have one or more layers come loose in one or more areas around the piece Blue painters tape Pro: works well Con: can't see wood grain through the tape. If your'e using BB plywood this is probably not a concern Packing tape Pro: works well, can see grain Con: packing tape can be a real pain if you have issues with static electricity, the adhesive can be wildly different between batches/manufactures ( The roll I'm using right now has to be cleaned with acetone, MS just won't dissolve the residue ). My current system: Cover top and bottom with clear shelf liner, packing tape to hold the stack. Pilot hole for the outside cut and enough room around the pattern so that the waste area keeps the layers of the pattern locked in place as the ouside is cut. I have recently cut 5 layers of 1/8 BB plywood for ornaments, using 2/0 blades. The stack limit is the length of the small drill bits. I did try putting wax paper between each layer (for lubrication), but I didn't notice any difference.
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