Wichman

I've used pine and redwood to make compound cut ornaments 1 1/2" x 1 1/2". The thin dark lines are significantly harder than the wider lighter wood, this can throw off your cutting because the blade will want to follow the softer wood, the blades can bend inside the wood and create a curved cut inside the vertical kerf. Adding tension can help as well as increasing your speed a little. Using skip tooth blades will help as well. My blade of choice is FD Polar, these blades are stiffer than others and resist the side flex better than the other blades that I have tried.

Here's my take on the "man in the maize", but as coasters. These are for High School friends.

Laser. If you look at the example on the other side of the page, it's a better quality photo and you can see the shingles are burnt in, and they are perfect. The other "tell" is the darkened ( burnt ) edges of the pieces. At the business where I worked for 26 years, we got a laser in about 2000, and the hobby machines came just a couple of years after that. Wait, What? The US distributor, Kyle Sheffer is Tom Sevy's son in law? I'm out.

I have and use that model. It is a fine light duty saw. Take the time to set up the saw and it will work fine. Pro; inexpensive, low foot print in the shop Con; low power, mine cannot cut through 2 inch Elm, it bogs down and stalls in an inch or so, I am using a 1/2" blade and I am going to try out a smaller blade when I can. The table is not ferrous so magnetic fences aren't possible. The table is okay for cutting but too light to drill and tap for accessories. The miter gauge was sloppy in the slot so I shimmed it with shim stock from Ace hardware. Pro and Con: Blades, the blade selection at HF is poor, but HD has blades that can be ordered in. There are high end blades that can be ordered that fit this saw (62") but I hesitate at a blade that costs more than the saw itself. If you have other questions, fire away.

Would that be the wife?

Steve Good pattern 1/4" Elm. #1 Polar for the details, #3 Polar for the outside.

No, I took out the middle shelf ( and the slot it would have fit into ) to give room for taller items. So, it has two shelves for items now, instead of the original three. This is the second of several racks that I'm making for my GF. I will make a decision about a corner shelf version after this one gets put in place on Sunday.

With spring comes working in the yard, as we get older it sometimes is a pain, literally, to get up. Here is a new pattern from Al Baggetta, his "Umph Bar" a devise to help you back on your feet. 7/16" Elm, #1 Polar blades for the details, #3 Polar for the outside cuts. Detail "leaf" from a Steve Good Pattern.

I modified the spice rack for size, thickness of material and removed the middle shelf to make room for taller items. 5/16" Elm, #1 Polar blade for all interior cuts and the veining on the top cross piece. #3 Polar blades for the outside cuts.

This is a very short youtube video ( 34 seconds ) that may help ( or at least it's something to check ).

Very nice cutting. How did those #1 blades work?

I love this type of project, when I'm selling the people with scroll saws themselves take one look and say " I've got that kind of saw, but I just can't" . If they stop to chat I'll encourage them that it's all just one hole at a time.

Just finished this one

These are ornaments cut from 1/8" basswood (hobby lobby) it cuts well and as you can see, will take details without falling apart.

Octoolguy, She hasn't been back to the site since Sat afternoon, so she hasn't seen my post or any past it. Hopefully we haven't driven her away with the bickering.

Very nice cutting Denny; I found the patterns for these @ : https://www.thewinfieldcollection.com/product/Compound-Cut-Birdhouse-Ornaments-Project-Pattern

I have three methods to use to drill holes. 1. cordless Dremel tool with a drill chuck accessory combined with a Dremel plunge router attachment. a. advantages; quick easy portable, unlimited throat ( no cord ). b disadvantages; limited power (generally not an issue), limited run time ( generally not an issue ) not suited to some of the drilling tasks that I have ( edge drilling ). 2. Drill Press, along with a micro chuck for those tiny bits ( #71 ), cross slide vise for precision edge drilling. a advantages; no running out of power during a long run of drilling holes. Precision for some edge drilling tasks, the double lidded basket that I'm working on needs hinge pin holes drilled in the edge of the lid, it's an 1/8" hole in a 5/16 thick piece, that leaves 3/64 on the sides, not much meat and I can't miss, the cross slide vise allows me to clamp the lid to be drilled and adjust exactly where the drill bit will enter the piece 3. drill guide for a handheld drill. This is Okay for rough work but just doesn't have the precision that I want.

I've used that saws 2 speed varient for 20+ years (recently got a Hegner, so the 2 speed is now a back up or show saw). These are great saws if the bearings are good. The blade clamping system takes a little getting used to but I prefer it over every other clamping system I have ever used, and that includes the Hegner, For fretwork, using the same size blade, the clamp can't be beat. Seconds to change holes, literally seconds; and zero blade slippage, and that's without have to do anything to the blades. The blade clamping system one real weak point is changing blade size, there is some crossover for sizes but if you're switching from a #1 to a #9 you'll have to adjust the upper clamp.

I just now went through my Dremel plunge router attachment, I was able to reduce the "slop" to darn near zero. Here's what I did with pictures My plunge router adapter, yours may vary: I'm using a cordless Dremel, with a micro usb charge port. I can recharge the battery without having to remove the multitool. I bought the three jaw drill chuck adapter, also Dremel brand, no messing with various collets. Unscrew the two flat tip screw that hold the head on: Using the apropriate wench tighten the posts, there are bolts in the bottom of the base. reassemble. Pretty simple, tightened up the slop really well. Additionally; I lubed the shaft and bearing that locks the shaft. The goal is to reduce slop by tightening the stop while still allowing the head to move up and down the shaft freely. I used micro fine Teflon powder that I bought from https://www.howardpianoindustries.com/micro-fine-ptfe-powder/ I know you're in SA, but this may give you the lead you need to find some locally to you, other wise just a light coat of a good lube.

One more picture and a note. I use a #65 drill bit for the pilot holes (.035") I drilled them at the far upper right hand side at the tip of the wing and at the upper right hand where the two fingers meet, this is so I can "hide" the hole within the pattern. Finished piece, many light coats of rattle can shellac:

re: trees

I took a break from the basket to make a gift for a friend. This is an example of why I like to use small blades, I get twofors. First picture is the fallout glued to a precut plaque (the gift). The second is the opening, this will become a gift for my granddaughter, I thinking of attaching a picture ( or pictures ) in the opening. If I do I'll post the results. ? Wood: 5/16" Elm, Blade: FD Polar #1 for the inside cut, #3 for the outside Time: about an hour of cutting. Pattern: found on a facebook group. Finishing, one coat BLO 50/50 with MS, The plaque will get 2 coats rattle can shellac.

Here is a link to the artists website : https://larrymarley.com/index.php

don in brooklin, Insane dust maker's real name is also Don, and the message was for him. While playing around with the settings on Inkscape I found that if the "brightness detection" is set at zero, no live preview will show, so I was wondering about his settings.

Insane Don A couple of questions: 1. do you have "live preview" selected? If so then: 2. do you get an image in the preview window? 3. what "detection mode" are you using? 4. can you give us a screen shot of your settings?