Wichman

Throw me a bone. What is a frame size we can use for a demonstration?

What is a frame size that you would typically use?

Where did I lose you?

Jimmy, in my experience the easiest and most accurate way to measure the length of the frame piece is to measure at the rabbet. The only calculation needed is to add 1/8" for "wiggle" room. For example; you're wanting to build an 11 x 14 frame, you would add an 1/8" to the length of each piece, so 2 pieces 11 1/8" and two pieces 14 1/8. Using a 45* tool (speed square, for example) mark a line on one end of your stick of molding (or just cut a 45 off one end); at the rabbet measure 14 1/8", mark a 45* line, measure from the outside marks to determine the length, use this to set the stop so that both pieces are exactly the same length. Rinse and repeat.

I like it. I like it a lot.

I've used this style before, but I can't find mine right now. Just an idea for an alternative style of sled. All of the saws in the commercial framing business I worked at had a adjustable stop that featured a reverse 45* bevel that formed a pocket to fit the frame into so that the frame wouldn't be able to creep. the style I referred to: https://www.amazon.com/Rockler-45-Degree-Miter-Sled/dp/B0186IPNCM/ref=pd_ybh_a_d_sccl_1/141-1356443-9605339?pd_rd_w=DmW1Q&content-id=amzn1.sym.67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_p=67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_r=0AH64H39YPK30EM0Y3RP&pd_rd_wg=Gj9Sf&pd_rd_r=a653147f-a65d-448d-8db7-0380c8172cb6&pd_rd_i=B0186IPNCM&psc=1

Ray, I've been looking at the pattern. Are you sure you got all three lines of the outside of the pattern (the squares)? If you only got the dashed inside lines it would print 1/4" short.

I wonder how this compares to tiger wood? I was given a tiger wood 2 x 4 x 8 ft board left over from a deck project. Not sure I if even want to mess with it.

I have used all the methods mentioned so far here's my take (for what it's worth) pin nails Pro: very good at holding the stack and keeping it from moving. Con; have to have or buy a pin nailer, I use hardwood and the pins would bend inside the wood and be in the pattern line ( this is very bad for the blades) double sided tape Pro: works well, adds lubrication to the blades Con: removing the tape can be problematic, wood fibers may come off with the tape. Hot glue: Pro: works well Con: I've have one or more layers come loose in one or more areas around the piece Blue painters tape Pro: works well Con: can't see wood grain through the tape. If your'e using BB plywood this is probably not a concern Packing tape Pro: works well, can see grain Con: packing tape can be a real pain if you have issues with static electricity, the adhesive can be wildly different between batches/manufactures ( The roll I'm using right now has to be cleaned with acetone, MS just won't dissolve the residue ). My current system: Cover top and bottom with clear shelf liner, packing tape to hold the stack. Pilot hole for the outside cut and enough room around the pattern so that the waste area keeps the layers of the pattern locked in place as the ouside is cut. I have recently cut 5 layers of 1/8 BB plywood for ornaments, using 2/0 blades. The stack limit is the length of the small drill bits. I did try putting wax paper between each layer (for lubrication), but I didn't notice any difference.

I've used pine and redwood to make compound cut ornaments 1 1/2" x 1 1/2". The thin dark lines are significantly harder than the wider lighter wood, this can throw off your cutting because the blade will want to follow the softer wood, the blades can bend inside the wood and create a curved cut inside the vertical kerf. Adding tension can help as well as increasing your speed a little. Using skip tooth blades will help as well. My blade of choice is FD Polar, these blades are stiffer than others and resist the side flex better than the other blades that I have tried.

Here's my take on the "man in the maize", but as coasters. These are for High School friends.

Laser. If you look at the example on the other side of the page, it's a better quality photo and you can see the shingles are burnt in, and they are perfect. The other "tell" is the darkened ( burnt ) edges of the pieces. At the business where I worked for 26 years, we got a laser in about 2000, and the hobby machines came just a couple of years after that. Wait, What? The US distributor, Kyle Sheffer is Tom Sevy's son in law? I'm out.

I have and use that model. It is a fine light duty saw. Take the time to set up the saw and it will work fine. Pro; inexpensive, low foot print in the shop Con; low power, mine cannot cut through 2 inch Elm, it bogs down and stalls in an inch or so, I am using a 1/2" blade and I am going to try out a smaller blade when I can. The table is not ferrous so magnetic fences aren't possible. The table is okay for cutting but too light to drill and tap for accessories. The miter gauge was sloppy in the slot so I shimmed it with shim stock from Ace hardware. Pro and Con: Blades, the blade selection at HF is poor, but HD has blades that can be ordered in. There are high end blades that can be ordered that fit this saw (62") but I hesitate at a blade that costs more than the saw itself. If you have other questions, fire away.

Would that be the wife?

Steve Good pattern 1/4" Elm. #1 Polar for the details, #3 Polar for the outside.

No, I took out the middle shelf ( and the slot it would have fit into ) to give room for taller items. So, it has two shelves for items now, instead of the original three. This is the second of several racks that I'm making for my GF. I will make a decision about a corner shelf version after this one gets put in place on Sunday.

With spring comes working in the yard, as we get older it sometimes is a pain, literally, to get up. Here is a new pattern from Al Baggetta, his "Umph Bar" a devise to help you back on your feet. 7/16" Elm, #1 Polar blades for the details, #3 Polar for the outside cuts. Detail "leaf" from a Steve Good Pattern.

I modified the spice rack for size, thickness of material and removed the middle shelf to make room for taller items. 5/16" Elm, #1 Polar blade for all interior cuts and the veining on the top cross piece. #3 Polar blades for the outside cuts.

This is a very short youtube video ( 34 seconds ) that may help ( or at least it's something to check ).

Very nice cutting. How did those #1 blades work?

I love this type of project, when I'm selling the people with scroll saws themselves take one look and say " I've got that kind of saw, but I just can't" . If they stop to chat I'll encourage them that it's all just one hole at a time.

Just finished this one

These are ornaments cut from 1/8" basswood (hobby lobby) it cuts well and as you can see, will take details without falling apart.

Octoolguy, She hasn't been back to the site since Sat afternoon, so she hasn't seen my post or any past it. Hopefully we haven't driven her away with the bickering.

Very nice cutting Denny; I found the patterns for these @ : https://www.thewinfieldcollection.com/product/Compound-Cut-Birdhouse-Ornaments-Project-Pattern