Wichman

Two butterfly with names, fully finished. 3/8 elm, 5" x 16", FD #1 polar used throughout, dark walnut stain on the letters, 2 coats BLO 50/50 finish. I need to go darker on the letters for more contrast, I'll probably use ebony stain next.

Here is a fairly recent thread : I used "shop vac" as my search term ( with the quotation marks )

Update I received the new clamps last week and the blade breakage is way down. This should make scrolling even more fun.

My latest. Butterfly with a name, and I used a simple small butterfly as bridging to reinforce the letters:

Look in the Forum titled New Pattern announcements, not in the Pattern library.

My girlfriends mom is a big time gardener, so I made a complete set of plant stakes from our pattern library. She said, " I'm not putting those in the ground, they're too nice ". 3/8" elm, #1 FD polar blades, BLO finish. 21 stakes, 10 hrs cutting, just under 30 minutes per stake.

Here are just some of the patterns from Steve I have cut:

While researching for the bolts to secure the Hegner to the brackets for the Miter saw stand, I ran across a short note in the Hegner Manual that discussed the size of blade to the blade holders. There are three sizes of blade holders for the Hegner; .5mm (blades, #4 and smaller), .7mm ( #4 though #9 ) and 1.0mm ( larger than #9 ). Using too large a holder may result in premature failure at the clamp. .7 mm is the standard size that ships with the Hegner. I use mostly smaller than #4 blades and I had been having issues lately braking more blades than normal. I have ordered new blade holders; two sets of .5mm and one set of 1.0mm. I'll update after I've had a chance to try them out.

Tractor supply finally got back to me. Country of origin is China.

To edit a text: At the top right of your text area (finished text) there are three small dots, when you hover over them a dialog box will state "more options". Click on the three dots and a sub menu will appear. If you made the post, the system will allow you to edit.

Looks like a good system. A couple of questions: How wide to you cut the Z-BAR? Is it a ratio or ??? How much adjustment can be made horizontally? This looks like a modified french cleat system. For us weekend warriors, could we make the same type of thing out of lathe? It would be about 3/8"thick so it shouldn't kick out from the wall much.

Sometimes the "shortcut" is to take a break or put the project away until morning. Trying to "get er done" leads to mistakes and redoing a piece that took hours to get cut.

Also, also Welcome to the Village, Jet, be sure to check out the resources tab, lots of good info there: https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/articles/

Also, why isn't it holding the blades? Can you describe what's going on. I have a delta with the quick clamp, maybe I can help.

While no one currently makes a direct replacement, here is a video on making a replacement clamp for the saw: The Artisan Pirate is a member here so you may be able to message back and forth.

You mean, something like this? : "Welcome to the Village, newcomer, be sure to check out the resources tab, lots of good info there: https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/articles/

For a number of reasons I mounted my old saw, a delta two speed, to my miter saw stand. It's rock solid on high. After Christmas I plan to mount the Hegner 22" and see how it works. My shop is 16' x18', if I place the tools I'm using in the center of the 18' wall I can easily process 8' boards, be it miter saw, planer, scroll saw, etc. With 5' of rails I can mount several tools at the same time, SS, sanders, second SS, and not have to be switching back and forth. The picture is the delta two speed and the light bracket. Note there is a ton of space underneath if I need to use a chair ( I normally just stand ).

Frank, 1. Do what works for you. At work we produced a canvas wrapped art product up to 36 x 72 inches. Because of the weight, a single saw tooth hanger was stapled on ( centered, with adjustments ) . We would have to test the center of balance and adjust the placement of the hanger accordingly. The largest canvas wrap we did was 48 x 108 inches, for a corporate headquarters. Testing the center of balance is generally not necessary for smaller items because of the nature of the saw tooth hanger. On the larger canvas wraps the center of balance could be up to 3 inches off. 2. If you are using wire and the item is leaning out from the wall the attachment point on the sides is probably too low. Moving the wire higher on the sides will reduce the lean. Yes, this means that the saw tooth is faster, no learning curve. But if you just have to have wire .

Also, the house I bought came with several thousand press in hanger, that's why I came up with the jig. The commercial press machine at work held the saw tooth in place with a magnet. That was a game changer.

There are a ton of variables, so I will probably miss some of them. 1. With narrow frames, or plaques with lots of space used, there is a significant limit to where you can place the saw tooth. This leads to Denny's s statement about the wall hook. With wider frames or more space on a plaque you can still hide the wall hook. 2. Centering wide pieces. With a long horizontal frame it's becomes difficult to keep the item from becoming crooked using a saw tooth hanger, especially if the weight of the piece is unbalenced, either by the scroll work or by the variations in the weight of the framing material. 3. Centering vertical pieces is easier, because of the weight distribution. 4. Speed. Generally speaking, a pressed in saw tooth hanger is faster then a wire hanger. 5. Cost. Generally speaking, a pressed in saw tooth hanger is less expensive than using wire. This is very dependent on how it's done. I worked in the art publishing industry for 26+ years, and that's what my experiences are. The standard at the shop where I worked were; any frame 16 x 20 or less = saw tooth hanger, we had a commercial machine to do the pressing and I could install at the rate of 4 frames per minute. Any frame larger than 16 x 20 got a wire hanger. We started with commercial buckles ( a strap formed around a wire triangle ) screwed to the frame, then the wire wrapped around the triangle. We ended up stapling the sire to the frame using medium crown staples. I have rigged up a jig for pressing saw tooth hangers using a woodworkers bench vise and magnets. When I put it together again I'll take and post pictures.

What are the dimensions of the belt you are trying to replace? Are you wanting a traditional belt or would modern materials be okay?

I love this pattern, I'm working on double stack right now. My one mod to the pattern is to pin the tenons with toothpicks ( 5/64" ) so I don't have to use any glue and mess up the stain.

I still have the plans to build one of those. Do it yourself wood ideas Vol. 7 no. 1, 1999

Not really, I started drilling a blade hole(s) for the exterior cut. Then as I cut I'll use packing tape on the portions I've cut to support the piece while I cut the rest. This gives good support while cutting the rest of the pattern. This works much better than cutting in from the side.

Here's some pics, I checked the size, it's 1 1/2" galvanized pipe and fittings.