Wichman

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Looks like a good system. A couple of questions: How wide to you cut the Z-BAR? Is it a ratio or ??? How much adjustment can be made horizontally? This looks like a modified french cleat system. For us weekend warriors, could we make the same type of thing out of lathe? It would be about 3/8"thick so it shouldn't kick out from the wall much.

Sometimes the "shortcut" is to take a break or put the project away until morning. Trying to "get er done" leads to mistakes and redoing a piece that took hours to get cut.

Also, also Welcome to the Village, Jet, be sure to check out the resources tab, lots of good info there: https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/articles/

Also, why isn't it holding the blades? Can you describe what's going on. I have a delta with the quick clamp, maybe I can help.

While no one currently makes a direct replacement, here is a video on making a replacement clamp for the saw: The Artisan Pirate is a member here so you may be able to message back and forth.

You mean, something like this? : "Welcome to the Village, newcomer, be sure to check out the resources tab, lots of good info there: https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/articles/

For a number of reasons I mounted my old saw, a delta two speed, to my miter saw stand. It's rock solid on high. After Christmas I plan to mount the Hegner 22" and see how it works. My shop is 16' x18', if I place the tools I'm using in the center of the 18' wall I can easily process 8' boards, be it miter saw, planer, scroll saw, etc. With 5' of rails I can mount several tools at the same time, SS, sanders, second SS, and not have to be switching back and forth. The picture is the delta two speed and the light bracket. Note there is a ton of space underneath if I need to use a chair ( I normally just stand ).

Frank, 1. Do what works for you. At work we produced a canvas wrapped art product up to 36 x 72 inches. Because of the weight, a single saw tooth hanger was stapled on ( centered, with adjustments ) . We would have to test the center of balance and adjust the placement of the hanger accordingly. The largest canvas wrap we did was 48 x 108 inches, for a corporate headquarters. Testing the center of balance is generally not necessary for smaller items because of the nature of the saw tooth hanger. On the larger canvas wraps the center of balance could be up to 3 inches off. 2. If you are using wire and the item is leaning out from the wall the attachment point on the sides is probably too low. Moving the wire higher on the sides will reduce the lean. Yes, this means that the saw tooth is faster, no learning curve. But if you just have to have wire .

Also, the house I bought came with several thousand press in hanger, that's why I came up with the jig. The commercial press machine at work held the saw tooth in place with a magnet. That was a game changer.

There are a ton of variables, so I will probably miss some of them. 1. With narrow frames, or plaques with lots of space used, there is a significant limit to where you can place the saw tooth. This leads to Denny's s statement about the wall hook. With wider frames or more space on a plaque you can still hide the wall hook. 2. Centering wide pieces. With a long horizontal frame it's becomes difficult to keep the item from becoming crooked using a saw tooth hanger, especially if the weight of the piece is unbalenced, either by the scroll work or by the variations in the weight of the framing material. 3. Centering vertical pieces is easier, because of the weight distribution. 4. Speed. Generally speaking, a pressed in saw tooth hanger is faster then a wire hanger. 5. Cost. Generally speaking, a pressed in saw tooth hanger is less expensive than using wire. This is very dependent on how it's done. I worked in the art publishing industry for 26+ years, and that's what my experiences are. The standard at the shop where I worked were; any frame 16 x 20 or less = saw tooth hanger, we had a commercial machine to do the pressing and I could install at the rate of 4 frames per minute. Any frame larger than 16 x 20 got a wire hanger. We started with commercial buckles ( a strap formed around a wire triangle ) screwed to the frame, then the wire wrapped around the triangle. We ended up stapling the sire to the frame using medium crown staples. I have rigged up a jig for pressing saw tooth hangers using a woodworkers bench vise and magnets. When I put it together again I'll take and post pictures.

What are the dimensions of the belt you are trying to replace? Are you wanting a traditional belt or would modern materials be okay?

I love this pattern, I'm working on double stack right now. My one mod to the pattern is to pin the tenons with toothpicks ( 5/64" ) so I don't have to use any glue and mess up the stain.

I still have the plans to build one of those. Do it yourself wood ideas Vol. 7 no. 1, 1999

Not really, I started drilling a blade hole(s) for the exterior cut. Then as I cut I'll use packing tape on the portions I've cut to support the piece while I cut the rest. This gives good support while cutting the rest of the pattern. This works much better than cutting in from the side.

Here's some pics, I checked the size, it's 1 1/2" galvanized pipe and fittings.

I've just completed cutting a couple of pieces from the Elm tree that was in my front yard. I found the Elm to be comparable with the other hardwoods ( Oak, walnut, cherry ) that I have cut. The one thing that stands out is the hardness tends to vary, doesn't bother me too much as I cut slow, but if you're a speedster it might be problematic.

I have a drill press that has the older style round table with slots cut into the table. I wanted a better way to attach jigs and such. The original table attaches to the DP with a round piece that is clamped on the table support. I removed the table and found that the round piece is slightly smaller than a standard plumping size. I bought several floor flanges of the appropriate size along with plumbing nipples to match, I used my 1 x 30 belt sander with an 80 grit belt ( heavy leather gloves are a must ) to reduce the diameter of the nipple so that it fits the DP's clamp. I sanded the top of the flanges to make a shoulder that rests on the table support clamp, to ensure the alignment is maintained I now have: 1. the original table 2. the plywood table ( backing surface for drilling fretwork, I also use this for positioning jigs for repeatable holes ) 3. a cross slide vice permanently mounted to it's own table ( I use this to accurately drill holes for the hinge pins in the double lidded fretwork basket that I make, 1/8" hole in 5/16 thick piece, just no room for error ). 4. A HF drill press table on it's own support.

Bob, I discovered how to make auxiliary tables for my drill press ( I'll explain in a new thread ) , so I have one that is a piece of scrap 3/4 plywood, when I've worn out the current hole I just move the table a mite to get a fresh surface.

Here is a composite pattern; the wolf profile is by Grampa, I added the name. This is for a friend and will not be added to my commercial side as I do not have permission. 5/16" Elm ( from the yard ), ( first project out of the Elm ), #2/0, #1 polar FD blades, one coat BLO ( so far ).

I use a cordless Dremel attached to the plunge router attachment, it has the torque and the speed to drill through 3/4 hardwood. To reduce the chance of burning I drill the depth in quarters. Same thing with the drill press, if you ramp up the speed to get a clean exit, there is a tendency to burn, so drill a 1/4" pull up, and so on.

I have two of the mini chucks, got the second one when the first had too much wobble, then I saw a post, could have been here, that stated you could rotate the faces to eliminate the wobble. Tried it and viola one of the three faces has no wobble, this is with a #72 drill bit ( .025" ) , next is too mark the drill press chuck and the mini chuck with the correct alignment.

The distance from the center of the chuck to the column is the "throat" The "swing" is the "throat" x 2 Other important specifications are spindle travel or work stroke; how thick a piece you can drill through "without additional setup" max distance from table to chuck or spindle table tilt some are limited to 45 degrees (if you want to drill holes in the ends of long pieces you need at least 90 degrees) type of table type of table mount ( this can be important if you want auxiliary tables )

Other tips on folding patterns.I If you are folding longer patterns ( Wands ), a HF 18" sheet metal brake works very well. Stumpy Nubs has a recent video about a shop made jig to make it even easier to use ( this will be a winter project ). I tried a pair of sheet metal locking pliers ( wide jaws ) but the edges are mismatched, another winter project. When using a ruler, a "bone folder" will allow you to crease the paper without cutting the paper fibers.

Another option to consider: The Seyco scrollers drill: https://www.seyco.com/scrollers-drill/ And it does have an adjustable angle.