Wichman

The local University's, Idaho State University ( my alma mater ), mascot is a Bengal tiger. I want to pair this pin with an orange and black Shawl. You haven't seen one before because I thought it up a couple of months ago :), finally got the pattern done and cut, now I need to work the pattern to get the outside edges thicker ( pretty fragile right now ).

Here are some new ( to me ) ornaments. 1/4 hardwood, #1 FD Polar blades Various artists, including our own Travis.

Here's the latest off the saw. 1/4 hardwood, #1 polar FD blade, 1 coat BLO, will be putting at least 3 coats of shellac ( 1/3 shellac to thinner ). Original pattern by Steve Good, modified by myself.

What is the planer that you have now? How smooth are the finished boards? Have you considered the multi head units ( woodmaster ) so you could have both? I was looking at a drum sander myself, but when I saw post after post ( lots of different forums ) mentioning that you would still need a final sanding after the DS, I gave up on the idea. I currently have a Bauer 12 1/2" and could be more pleased with it. minimal snipe and a quick sanding schedule and boards are saw ready.

I recently bought this pattern for a winter project. I plan to use the miter saw extensions to support the ends, I will be using spiral blades. http://www.scrolleronline.com/product/Bear-Ridge-Mountain-Bench-Project-Pattern/876

Hello and welcome to the Villiage.

It depends on the type of chair that you prefer. Find a chair that is comfortable and build a stand to match. I don't like sitting so my stand is designed for me standing. The miter saw stand worked out perfect, and I'm 5' 9". I have a chair that I can use with the saw, stand or sit depending on what's hurting.; the chair is a hybrid ( bottom from HF top from tractor supply ) and I cut a piece of plywood to be a foot support/foot switch platform, the plywood rests on top of where the legs bend. From the floor to the saw table is 39"

Are you scanning the images? If so I have found that scanning to jpeg works better for me than any other format. If you are looking for definitions of terms; then click on help, go to the online manual and while in the manual click on the index on the top right of the page.

Just a thought, but have you checked the pivot points to make sure they're not sticking?

Most likely Hilton Head Islands, South Carolina

Try this: use spray carburetor cleaner and some paper towels, get the toner wet then sop up with the paper towels.

Top menu bar, far left: File From the File menu select Document properties On the D P sub page click into the display tab In the display tab on the right hand side are the display controls There should be a graphic with a grid; underneath the grid are three rectangles; This is where the controls you are looking for reside. You can open more than one at a time; open both the page and the desk options. Switch to RGB on both options. ( there is a rectangular button with a three letter code, click on this and it gives all the color types, choose RGB ) The "page" sub window will now be called the "background", but they mean page. change the "desk" setting to match the "page" setting and Bob's your uncle.

Closeup of wand, crystal end:

The pattern came from the magazine. How I modify the pattern: 1. print the pattern, cut the pattern at the base of the "crystal" (remove the crystal from the pattern) 2. attach the pattern to the wood blank orienting the pattern so the "crystal end" is at the end of the blank. 3. at the crystal end draw lines from the center of the crystals across the end of the bland to form an X 4. drill an appropriate size hole lengthwise in the top of the blank. (I use my drill press for this, hole diameters vary from 3/16" to 3/8" and are about 1/2" deep) 5. I don't cut the small inside cut for wands with crystals, it just makes the wand "neck" too weak. 6. While cutting the other inside cut, do not cut the bottom of the wood crystal. 7. after cutting the wand out, use the crystal you are using for the wand and mark the end of the wand where the crystal touches, use a dremel and a small longish burr to size the hole to the crystal. 8. use Gorilla Glue very sparingly on the crystal. I use my thumbnail to mark where the glue needs to be, and then while holding the crystal with one hand apply the glue with the other. Set the crystal into the end of the wand and set the wand where it won't be disturbed for a while.

There is an opal mine 111 miles north of my location. Before COVID you could dig at the mine site and pay a nominal fee for the rough opals. I would love to do an opal encrusted wand with a stupid high price on it, glass case, alarm system, armed guards (I know some people ) I have one repeat customer, but she's buying for friends; no collectors, yet.

No. We have several gem shops in town, and I do live in the gem state.

A beaders reamer makes a great needle file, much smaller than a "regular"needle file and the reamer has a finer grit.

I intend for this post to be a place where anyone can jot down short tips and tricks, one or two lines. I'll start: When I need to fold a long compound pattern, I use my small sheet metal brake (18" HF)

A new "Wich Stick". 1"square poplar, FD #1 polar for the inside cuts, FD#3 polar for the exterior cuts, Minwax ebony stain x3, shellac cut 1/2 x3, rough Amethyst crystal. original pattern by Al Baggetta. (I modified the pattern for the rough crystal)

As stated these were stack cut, can you guess which one was the top of the stack and which was the bottom?

Kevin, That's the direction my shop is going. The concept behind the miter saw stand is that if I situate it in the center of the 18' wall and can handle 8' board to either side no matter what tool I have mounted. The saw pictured is my old Delta SS 40-560 two speed with the quick clamp (In my opinion the best clamp ever made!). My new saw is a 22" Hegner, still trying to get the hang of it.

Hot off the saw. I stack cut these out of 1/4 inch poplar, #1 FD Polar blades, #65 drill bit, no finish yet. Can you tell the top piece from the bottom?

That gives me an idea of how to get the finish on deep cuts without getting to much finish on the surface. Thanks for the idea.

I once had a project that taught me that cobalt alloy drill bits are the stiffest (minimum side flex), longest lasting, highest heat rating (have to heat the drill bit to 1500 degrees to lose the temper) of all the alloys. You can special order to a #80 from Home Depot. Yes, they are more expensive, but in this case you really do get what you pay for.

Another picture, me at the market with the scroll saw and light mounted on the stand. There's enough room on the stand to mount a sander (or two) along with the scroll saw.