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Everything posted by Wichman
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Strange problem, need solution help please
Wichman replied to Badgerboy's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Most likely Hilton Head Islands, South Carolina -
Strange problem, need solution help please
Wichman replied to Badgerboy's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Try this: use spray carburetor cleaner and some paper towels, get the toner wet then sop up with the paper towels. -
Top menu bar, far left: File From the File menu select Document properties On the D P sub page click into the display tab In the display tab on the right hand side are the display controls There should be a graphic with a grid; underneath the grid are three rectangles; This is where the controls you are looking for reside. You can open more than one at a time; open both the page and the desk options. Switch to RGB on both options. ( there is a rectangular button with a three letter code, click on this and it gives all the color types, choose RGB ) The "page" sub window will now be called the "background", but they mean page. change the "desk" setting to match the "page" setting and Bob's your uncle.
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The pattern came from the magazine. How I modify the pattern: 1. print the pattern, cut the pattern at the base of the "crystal" (remove the crystal from the pattern) 2. attach the pattern to the wood blank orienting the pattern so the "crystal end" is at the end of the blank. 3. at the crystal end draw lines from the center of the crystals across the end of the bland to form an X 4. drill an appropriate size hole lengthwise in the top of the blank. (I use my drill press for this, hole diameters vary from 3/16" to 3/8" and are about 1/2" deep) 5. I don't cut the small inside cut for wands with crystals, it just makes the wand "neck" too weak. 6. While cutting the other inside cut, do not cut the bottom of the wood crystal. 7. after cutting the wand out, use the crystal you are using for the wand and mark the end of the wand where the crystal touches, use a dremel and a small longish burr to size the hole to the crystal. 8. use Gorilla Glue very sparingly on the crystal. I use my thumbnail to mark where the glue needs to be, and then while holding the crystal with one hand apply the glue with the other. Set the crystal into the end of the wand and set the wand where it won't be disturbed for a while.
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There is an opal mine 111 miles north of my location. Before COVID you could dig at the mine site and pay a nominal fee for the rough opals. I would love to do an opal encrusted wand with a stupid high price on it, glass case, alarm system, armed guards (I know some people ) I have one repeat customer, but she's buying for friends; no collectors, yet.
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No. We have several gem shops in town, and I do live in the gem state.
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A beaders reamer makes a great needle file, much smaller than a "regular"needle file and the reamer has a finer grit.
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I intend for this post to be a place where anyone can jot down short tips and tricks, one or two lines. I'll start: When I need to fold a long compound pattern, I use my small sheet metal brake (18" HF)
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A new "Wich Stick". 1"square poplar, FD #1 polar for the inside cuts, FD#3 polar for the exterior cuts, Minwax ebony stain x3, shellac cut 1/2 x3, rough Amethyst crystal. original pattern by Al Baggetta. (I modified the pattern for the rough crystal)
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As stated these were stack cut, can you guess which one was the top of the stack and which was the bottom?
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Kevin, That's the direction my shop is going. The concept behind the miter saw stand is that if I situate it in the center of the 18' wall and can handle 8' board to either side no matter what tool I have mounted. The saw pictured is my old Delta SS 40-560 two speed with the quick clamp (In my opinion the best clamp ever made!). My new saw is a 22" Hegner, still trying to get the hang of it.
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Hot off the saw. I stack cut these out of 1/4 inch poplar, #1 FD Polar blades, #65 drill bit, no finish yet. Can you tell the top piece from the bottom?
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That gives me an idea of how to get the finish on deep cuts without getting to much finish on the surface. Thanks for the idea.
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I once had a project that taught me that cobalt alloy drill bits are the stiffest (minimum side flex), longest lasting, highest heat rating (have to heat the drill bit to 1500 degrees to lose the temper) of all the alloys. You can special order to a #80 from Home Depot. Yes, they are more expensive, but in this case you really do get what you pay for.
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Another picture, me at the market with the scroll saw and light mounted on the stand. There's enough room on the stand to mount a sander (or two) along with the scroll saw.
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No scroll saw work for awhile.
Wichman replied to Insane Dust Maker's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Ray, The OP is based in South Africa, so no HF. That's why I tried to keep my suggestion pretty generic. -
Toughbuilt TB-S550 https://toughbuilt.com/product/124-miter-saw-stand-based-on-c124 The factory supports are not tall enough for the Scroll saw, I am replacing them with HF roller supports which will allow the height I need. If you are not intending to do over size projects you won't need the extra height. I've used this stand with the HF lunchbox planer and it was rock solid, so it's not surprising that it handles the scroll saw very well.
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Here's a look at how I am setting up my shop. I'm using a miter saw stand (works really well with the old Delta, haven't tried the Hegner yet). I chose this miter saw stand because it had the longest capacity, has four built in supports, and extra mounting brackets are easy to find and not too expensive. I'm using this stand to take the Delta to the farmers market that I attend. This really attracted more people to the booth, as well as much better sales. The third picture is the bracket for the magnifying light and power strip. I'll get some more picture tomorrow at the FM.
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No scroll saw work for awhile.
Wichman replied to Insane Dust Maker's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Can you get a medium size battery backup unit? I have one for my wifi router and internet system (wireless ISP). Both of my computers are laptops so I never lose internet or computer time to power outages. One of these units may not let you keep chugging away, but they should provide enough runtime that you wouldn't be caught in the middle of a cut. -
https://www.bearwood.com/media/all-blades-modified-geometry.pdf From Bear Woods site.
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I like a gloss finish on mine. I want the ornament to reflect the tree lights. For special ornaments, family, I will use a glitter paint before the gloss finish.
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A bottle of rum.
- 4 replies
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- artisan pirate
- diy
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I have a Hegner and am a fairly new user so here are my thoughts: On the Quick clamp; on the left side of the clamp is a set screw, set this screw so that it is flush with the left side or just a hair proud, on the right hand side is the thumb screw, make sure that the swivel on the end moves freely. For clamping a blade; I pull the arm down until the blade is just above the swivel pad (you may need to loosen the thumb screw just a bit), slide the blade back as far as you can, then pull the arm down until the blade is against the top of the clamp. Tighten the thumb screw. I only have problems with blade slippage if I don't get the blade in the correct position.
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How about this plan? You could leave the surface rough, sort the strips for thickness before you do a glue up. https://woodworkingformeremortals.com/folding-wine-table-for-picnics/
