Wichman

I'm not sure the wood, one of them is cherry, but the rest are scraps I've saved. I have some black walnut that I'm going to cut (I'll post it when I do. So far it's just BLO for a finish.

Some more ornaments, latest SSW and crafts magazine. The single ornament took 1 1/2hrs of cutting, the other two I stack cut, 1 3/4hrs cutting. 40 holes in both patterns. FD #1 polar blades, one blade did both patterns.

Did you see my post about the wing? To cut the veining I used a FD new spiral 2/0 blade (diameter .031) and drilled pilot holes with a #65 (.035). The #60 drill bit is a little larger (.040) compare those numbers with a 1/16 bit (.0625). I get my blades and drill bits from Flying Dutchman.

About 2 hrs of cutting, used 4 blades.

Here are metal mesh filters for HVAC system, they have 20 x 20 in either 1 or 2 inch thick units, they are fairly expensive and they are NOT designed for small dust. https://www.grainger.com/search?cpnuser=undefined&searchBar=true&searchQuery=metal+mesh+filter+for+hvac+unit&suggestConfigId=6 Back when I was using a wood stove I bought a unit with a washable prefilter (cat hair) and a washable electrostatic main filter. It has worked very well for 8+ years. I have it set up to blow fresh air across the saw, in the same direction the saw blower goes.

came from here on SSV

Yes, stack of 8, 1/8" BB plywood. The cutting was slower than I'd like, I'm going to drop to 4 and see how it goes, then maybe do 6 for comparison.

Just finished cutting these. Now for some sparkle paint. 1/8" BB, 8 layers (1" thick), #1 FD polar blades Can you tell which was the top and which was the bottom?

So Rash could cut multiples of specific sizes (lengths) for various word length, but how would you align the lettering after the cutting the first part ?

Welcome to the Village.

Here's a video from the manufacturer:

The bottom clamp is similar to many other scroll saw clamps. The bolt pulls the sides together to clamp the blade between two flat surfaces. The quick clamp is very different. On the left side is an adjustable set screw to allow for wear. On the right side is a bolt with a knurled knob on the outside , the inside of the bolt resembles the end of a c-clamp, a rotating surface that is independent of the screw, this reduces the twisting force on the end of the blade. If you need them, I'll try to get pictures of mine.

1st paragraph. In general, yes. Your mileage may vary. 2nd paragraph. Kerf, a slit made by the cutting of a saw.

Rob, I can't see where you're from on your profile. Are you in the US? Anyway, your next purchase should be a fractional caliper (this style of caliper will allow you to accurately measure the thickness of the blade and the width of the blade) and, if you set the caliper to 1 inch, you can count the teeth per inch (TPI). My caliper allows me to measure in fractions and in thousandths of an inch. This allows me to accurately measure blades, drill bits, dowels (toothpicks are 5/64s) wood blanks, plywood, etc. The rule of thumb is, the thicker the wood the larger the blade and the tighter the turns the smaller the blade, so it's a balancing act. Additionally, it appears that your saw is a ridged arm saw with a spring tension device (as opposed to a constant tension saw). Your saws design limits somewhat what you can cut. If the kerf clogs with sawdust of if you turn too tight a radius or if the grains pulls your blade, it will have undesirable results (the blade can bind or catch and bend inside the cut). You will have to make test cuts and practice a bit with new material and or new patterns. Here is a link to the Olson chart: https://www.olsonsaw.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/2020-scroll-chart-WEB.pdf

I was visiting with my brother today (61st birthday) and I finally got a picture of the eagle I cut for him 30 odd years ago. 1/4" plywood, oak stain, cut with my first saw; 13" craftsman knock off of a Dremel. 3" pin end blades 25 teeth per inch:

I used these blades about two years ago. I really liked the blades and the way they cut and their durability, but they are not good enough to justify the price IMHO. If I had a specific use for them (I'm currently working on a bear pattern that has a lot of long jagged runs, breaking a blade in the middle is a PIA, so in this instance I would be temped) I might buy them again, but for now... no. Let us know how they work for you and your application.

What was your solution for the circle cutting for coasters?

use a spiral blade.

Just use a straight piece of 1 x 2 clamped to the table, adjust until the fence is the distance you want from the blade, and use a spiral blade. If you feed the piece at an angle to the table (not 90 degrees but say 15 degrees so that the piece being cut bypasses the arm of the saw) you can have unlimited length of cut.

The pattern that I use (from Wood Gears) is very close to your pattern. My current size is 7/16" thick, 1 7/8" long, and 2 1/2" tall. I use mostly 1 x 2 pine (construction castoffs). These are very popular.

Here are my current wands :

I have the HF (Bauer) lunchbox planer. I got it from the returned section for $185. I have a local store about 3 miles from my house and they carry the replacement blades for $25.00 a set. So far it works very well, nice smooth cuts. I have it set up on my miter saw stand (I bought extra brackets for other tools). I can easily feed 8' boards through it by myself.

One of the vendors at the Farmers market is having a rough week. The farm has a pumpkin patch and corn maze each year. As a side thing the farm wife goes around the area during the season and gives deserving people pumpkins as the "pumpkin fairy". So, to cheer her up I made her a pumpkin wand:

I'll second the FD polar blades. I have cut sliding dovetails in 1 1/2 purpleheart with these. In addition to going slow, when you come to a turn back up and gently go back and forth to help clear the sawdust from the kerf. The cutting looks top notch.

Welcome to the Village from Idaho. I'm an old sarge too. Ask away, we're here to help.