Wichman

Just finished this one, I saved all the dropouts and put all of it back together. I'm planning on this being a display at my booth this summer. 1/4 Inch thick material, FD Polar #1 blades, no finish yet. no idea what the wood is.

I used a pipe cleaner to get the vertical surfaces. It's a clear pine plaque made of laminated strips.

The other rose, can't stand waste so I try to use everything. 6inch round plaque, clear pine, 1/2 inch thick. Food coloring for the dyes, FD Polar #1 blades.

Just a shawl pin

Amazon has them as well as Joann fabric. Why do you want to use plastic stencils? Isn't using a computer easier?

I like to stack cut and keeping the panels together is always a PIA, the more techniques the better. I'm working on one now that is driving me crazy. Two 12 x 16 plaques and I didn't get them tight enough together, Now, the blades are snagging, bending inside, and breaking way too often. With everything else going on right now it's just a little to much.

I use FD Polar blades about 90% of the time. I like the stiffness of the Polar blades. With the type of pattern you're cutting I cut to the point and use the back of the blade as the pivot point, IMHO the burr on stamped blades helps in this situation, as you pivot the blade (in the direction of the burr) the burr will help with the cut. When I am cutting a pattern with waste areas, I will use Franks technique or Cut to the point back out of the cut about 1/4" then rotate the blade 180 (just inside the waste side) then back the blade to the corner and then shift the blade and cut the sharp point. Which technique just depends on the pattern, the wood, and how I feel on a particular day.:)

Frank, I do understand your concerns over the finished piece. I had the plaque and had intended to use food dye to color the leaves and flowers but I just ran out of time. I had trouble printing the pattern at a size I wanted, I had to cut out one of the roses as it was (I'll be cutting a single rose out of a smaller plaque and playing around with colors). I had some major issues with Inkscape just not doing what I wanted. So, I ended up running out of time to make adjustments and just went with what I had. Thank you so much for the pattern(s), I really do appreciate that you share them with us.

I made this for a friends birthday. 6 1/2 x 8 1/4, 1/2 thick basswood, Minwax golden oak stain (aerosol spray) #2 FD polar used throughout.

I once had a Lt ask me why I was talking to myself. I told him it was the only way I could have an intelligent conversation, he never bothered me again.

Gene, Welcome to the Village, it's more specialized than TPW or LJ but I'm sure you'll fit in just fine, ask, ask away.

Here is the thread I started about how I did these a couple of years ago. Hope this helps.

What process are you using now?

I've been close to the art publishing business world for close to 30 yrs. The state we're in is chaos. There is no rhyme or reason to any of it and no consistent rules. One business I worked for ended up shutting down over copyright issues (the business would buy books, "the art of xxxx" then cut the art out, use clever matting to enhance the art, and then sell a finished product. The publisher of the books send numerous letters insisting that the business stop. They finally did stop and the drop in sales killed the business) About two years ago one of my coworkers (also a photographer) was working on some new images of his to add to the businesses lineup. While researching his photo's he came across a copyrights notice from the park where he took the photos, no commercial use of images taken in the park. So he shut down the project. Be aware the phases are copyrighted or trademarked as well, so be careful with your word art pieces. Some copyright free sources: https://www.si.edu/openaccess https://buffer.com/library/free-images/

There are a total of 20 SSV members either in Ukraine or close (inside Russia proper). Let's keep them all in our thoughts.

The pattern is from Steve Good, cut from 3/4 poplar, stained with red food coloring, will clear coat with minwax when the weather warms up a bit.

What wood are you using? I find that the pine I use just won't hold together much smaller than what I am cutting now.

A new style for the mothers rose, 3/4 ash rose tinted with food coloring ( I like the pastel look)

I would also tape the waste pieces back in with clear tape. I keep a weighted dispenser for regular scotch tape and a modified tape gun (I removed the handle and clamped it to a bench) for 2" wide tape.

I'm late to the party, but it's been a long day (trees came down today). To spray adhesive I use five furnace filters I stack them into an open sided box. Lay the pattern on the bottom filter and spray, the filters catch all the over spray and allow the pressure to dissipate through the filters (no blow back). I got a pop up spray booth just as it turned cold, so I haven't been able to use it. The spray booth's main point is that you can spray an item (or several) and then zip it closed so that no dust or debris gets on the sprayed item(s).

I'm running Linux on my computer, and I picked up a used second monitor for cheap. I set them up to display side by side so I can watch the video (or pause) without having to switch tabs.

Also search for "saddle square".

I'm starting to be able to do things with Inkscape, now to retain the knowledge and not have to relearn again and again. Now that I can modify the text, I can use various words in combo with the rose (sweetheart, thankyou, and names/other languages). In my last pattern I was able to change the color the lines printed in (red) and I was able to add red dots to indicate where to drill (the dots were .035 diameter, so when drilled they disappear, making it easier to see if all the opening have been drilled (so easy to miss one or two)) Original pattern (mother) Steve Good, font on new word z003, 5/16" hardwood, FD #1 polar blade, BLO finish.

To expand upon Fab4 is this the one? ;

Where did you get the longer bits? I checked the Mcmaster site but didn't see long bits in the #65 size.