Wichman

The "air eraser " I got at HF won't knock off the fuzzies, but it will abrade the surface lightly, so I can "sand" inside the holes of the fretwork. https://www.harborfreight.com/air-eraseretching-kit-69277.html?_br_psugg_q=air+eraser similar items are available through other retailers, such as Amazon

I went to the library on Monday and spent some time looking through Mr Fexners book. There is a wealth of knowledge in there but it is tailored towards furniture, mostly large flat panels. And that's not what we do here. Rats.

That's only true for shellac, most of the others require a mechanical bond, i.e. sanding between coats.

Thanks for the recommendation, the local library has a title for Flexner, I'll pick it up tomorrow. It's probably about furniture but it will help (I need information about deep, 1/2" +, fretwork).

So as not to hijack another post, I'm starting a new one. Recently I did a deep dive into what is actually in "lacquer, I was looking at the various brands at the Ace Hardware website (I had to go into the MSDS to find the stuff) and here is what I found. In the current world of finishing, Lacquer is a catchall for a hard surface coating that may or may not contain; shellac, polyurethane, nitrocellulose acrylic, enamel, epoxy, and/or other ingredients and/or may require sanding between coats. If you are looking for a new finish coating you may need to explore different brands to see if a particular one works for you. I am still trying to find a way to give a gloss coating for the "name and a rose" items that I am making. Polyurethane needs to be sanded in between coat and there's just no way to do that (maybe, I'm going to try an "air eraser" from HF, I'll post after I've tried it) in a timely manner. Also all the non spray coatings now have instructions that state "do not thin", I believe this has more to do with VOC rules than actual use. I am asking that if you post about a particular finish that works for you, add the brand name and if you are thinning a product, what you are thinning it with. Thanks.

Frank, I really not trying to be difficult (although I am). Which lacquer (brand and type specific, please) are you using? In the current market the term "lacquer" is a catchall that includes many variations. What you are using may be very different than what others may find on the shelves.

From the comments section, the horses mouth: Thanks, glue - it is called "88" of Ukrainian production, instruction: apply glue on both surfaces, wait about 10-15 minutes until the glue dries, squeeze the glued surfaces. I am not sure that you will find it in your country, one of my customers wrote that in the USA similar glue is called "Contact Cement". Also I know that many of my customers use "Gorilla" wood glue.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00092CJC6?ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details&th=1 Accuracy and squareness on all sides within .0001"-.0002" It's a chunk of tool steel 1" x 2" x 3". Some are solid steel, others, such as mine, are drilled and tapped to allow more flexibility in jigs. Just as simple as I am. Set one on the table top, thick enough it won't fall over, and if you're looking for a 90* angle......

I finished cutting this one yesterday morning. 3/4 basswood, FD Polar #1 1400 SPM. The rose slides out either direction. My intention is to glue the rose back into the piece with the top surface of the rose just proud of the oval (the thickness of a toothpick, about 5/64"). FYI I use a 1 2 3 block to square my table.

Especially when I am cutting thick pieces, every few seconds I will let the piece go (gently holding so as not to lose all control) and let the piece "float" for a sec to allow any side pressure to dissipate. I've cut very small sliding dovetails in 1 1/2" purpleheart with this method. I favor FD Polar blades because they resist the side flex well.

"Not intended for use by persons under 14 years of age" I've seen stickers that state this.

Are these more or less dangerous than the glass globe ornaments still sold? Are they dangerous if used as intended? Just sell them.

ARRGGGHHHHHHHHHH!

My local library has the book, the original published in 2009, version .47 was released in 2009 so there is a lot of missing information.

Have you checked the blade for square to the table front to back?, if the top of the blade is positioned either in front or behind the bottom of the blade, you will get more aggressive cutting. This can be caused by a misalignment when putting the saw back together, by clamping at the wrong place on the blade clamp or reversing one of the blade clamps. Are you using pinned blades or pin less? If you are using pin less blades try some pinned or the reverse. See if there is a change. Let us know how it goes, what works and what doesn't.

Yep, they have many products that fit the machine, from the type that came with the machine to abrasive brushes, all of them are far too coarse/stiff for what I need (sanding fuzzies off of fretwork). Amazon has Klingspor products, just not what I need. Part of the frustration is the quagmire that internet searches have become i.e. search for a apple, get results that include oranges. This includes searches on business sites; Amazon, Lowes, Home depot, Ace hardware, etc.

Very nice.

Original Q & A: What I'm tring to get from Klingspor: https://www.klingspor.ca/products/abrasive-mop/sm-611-s#kaufen_anchor The machine it goes in : https://www.harborfreight.com/9-amp-surface-conditioning-tool-58079.html I have the sander upside down on my work bench just to the right of my saw (clamped in the wood vise with a foot switch inline) , I was waiting for the new drums to get here and I will do a breakdown of how well the idea works, but waiting .........

CS is Customer Service. The retail store, Canadian, did not show the item either and the commercial sites (both Canadian and US) only wants to sell to commercial customers .

I've been hesitant to comment on this thread , I'm trying not to be negative. I'm old, retired, and have lots of aches and pains, so... negative. There are over 5,000 members on the member map, yet only a dozen or so comment with any regularity. This drop has been noted on many forums of many topics, not just scrollsawing. My answer to the question is; if you want content, then post. Yes, it's frustrating when the post either isn't answered or the answers are sideways from the question. For example: I ask about a handheld sanding "mop" to remove fuzzies while working in the shop (house) while minimizing dust. The typical answer was "if it ain't got a motor ...". So I got a device for sanding, the drums for it are too hard for the fretwork, so I ordered (after much back and forth with CS) flap drums from Klingspor, called CS yesterday (two weeks after the initial order) and was told since it's a special order (it's a catalogue item in Canada but not the USA) it will be another 2 weeks before I call them again. Lots of frustration, so I think I'll go fishing again.

Good to see you back.

Here is the fixed piece, just wanted to show the grain. The hardness was variable throughout the cutting, hard, then suddenly soft, hurky jerky cutting.

It's 1/4 hardwood, don't know the species. This will be just some random patterns to use it up, I won't be getting any more.

A piece I finished cutting today, this was cut from a piece of wood given to me, when I took the pattern off it fell apart, it "broke" on a grain line. I'll fix it with super glue, but still. It seems all the wood in this batch is very brittle, most of the panels have a split in them, the board this piece is from had a split down the middle, I thought I had avoided the split, sigh.

You might try contacting Sue Mey, she's listed in the pattern shops, as she is based in SA. The member map shows 29 members in the Johannesburg area. If you could get together and put in a mass order.....