Wichman

Ray, The OP is based in South Africa, so no HF. That's why I tried to keep my suggestion pretty generic.

Toughbuilt TB-S550 https://toughbuilt.com/product/124-miter-saw-stand-based-on-c124 The factory supports are not tall enough for the Scroll saw, I am replacing them with HF roller supports which will allow the height I need. If you are not intending to do over size projects you won't need the extra height. I've used this stand with the HF lunchbox planer and it was rock solid, so it's not surprising that it handles the scroll saw very well.

Here's a look at how I am setting up my shop. I'm using a miter saw stand (works really well with the old Delta, haven't tried the Hegner yet). I chose this miter saw stand because it had the longest capacity, has four built in supports, and extra mounting brackets are easy to find and not too expensive. I'm using this stand to take the Delta to the farmers market that I attend. This really attracted more people to the booth, as well as much better sales. The third picture is the bracket for the magnifying light and power strip. I'll get some more picture tomorrow at the FM.

Can you get a medium size battery backup unit? I have one for my wifi router and internet system (wireless ISP). Both of my computers are laptops so I never lose internet or computer time to power outages. One of these units may not let you keep chugging away, but they should provide enough runtime that you wouldn't be caught in the middle of a cut.

https://www.bearwood.com/media/all-blades-modified-geometry.pdf From Bear Woods site.

I like a gloss finish on mine. I want the ornament to reflect the tree lights. For special ornaments, family, I will use a glitter paint before the gloss finish.

A bottle of rum.

I have a Hegner and am a fairly new user so here are my thoughts: On the Quick clamp; on the left side of the clamp is a set screw, set this screw so that it is flush with the left side or just a hair proud, on the right hand side is the thumb screw, make sure that the swivel on the end moves freely. For clamping a blade; I pull the arm down until the blade is just above the swivel pad (you may need to loosen the thumb screw just a bit), slide the blade back as far as you can, then pull the arm down until the blade is against the top of the clamp. Tighten the thumb screw. I only have problems with blade slippage if I don't get the blade in the correct position.

How about this plan? You could leave the surface rough, sort the strips for thickness before you do a glue up. https://woodworkingformeremortals.com/folding-wine-table-for-picnics/

The "air eraser " I got at HF won't knock off the fuzzies, but it will abrade the surface lightly, so I can "sand" inside the holes of the fretwork. https://www.harborfreight.com/air-eraseretching-kit-69277.html?_br_psugg_q=air+eraser similar items are available through other retailers, such as Amazon

I went to the library on Monday and spent some time looking through Mr Fexners book. There is a wealth of knowledge in there but it is tailored towards furniture, mostly large flat panels. And that's not what we do here. Rats.

That's only true for shellac, most of the others require a mechanical bond, i.e. sanding between coats.

Thanks for the recommendation, the local library has a title for Flexner, I'll pick it up tomorrow. It's probably about furniture but it will help (I need information about deep, 1/2" +, fretwork).

So as not to hijack another post, I'm starting a new one. Recently I did a deep dive into what is actually in "lacquer, I was looking at the various brands at the Ace Hardware website (I had to go into the MSDS to find the stuff) and here is what I found. In the current world of finishing, Lacquer is a catchall for a hard surface coating that may or may not contain; shellac, polyurethane, nitrocellulose acrylic, enamel, epoxy, and/or other ingredients and/or may require sanding between coats. If you are looking for a new finish coating you may need to explore different brands to see if a particular one works for you. I am still trying to find a way to give a gloss coating for the "name and a rose" items that I am making. Polyurethane needs to be sanded in between coat and there's just no way to do that (maybe, I'm going to try an "air eraser" from HF, I'll post after I've tried it) in a timely manner. Also all the non spray coatings now have instructions that state "do not thin", I believe this has more to do with VOC rules than actual use. I am asking that if you post about a particular finish that works for you, add the brand name and if you are thinning a product, what you are thinning it with. Thanks.

Frank, I really not trying to be difficult (although I am). Which lacquer (brand and type specific, please) are you using? In the current market the term "lacquer" is a catchall that includes many variations. What you are using may be very different than what others may find on the shelves.

From the comments section, the horses mouth: Thanks, glue - it is called "88" of Ukrainian production, instruction: apply glue on both surfaces, wait about 10-15 minutes until the glue dries, squeeze the glued surfaces. I am not sure that you will find it in your country, one of my customers wrote that in the USA similar glue is called "Contact Cement". Also I know that many of my customers use "Gorilla" wood glue.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00092CJC6?ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details&th=1 Accuracy and squareness on all sides within .0001"-.0002" It's a chunk of tool steel 1" x 2" x 3". Some are solid steel, others, such as mine, are drilled and tapped to allow more flexibility in jigs. Just as simple as I am. Set one on the table top, thick enough it won't fall over, and if you're looking for a 90* angle......

I finished cutting this one yesterday morning. 3/4 basswood, FD Polar #1 1400 SPM. The rose slides out either direction. My intention is to glue the rose back into the piece with the top surface of the rose just proud of the oval (the thickness of a toothpick, about 5/64"). FYI I use a 1 2 3 block to square my table.

Especially when I am cutting thick pieces, every few seconds I will let the piece go (gently holding so as not to lose all control) and let the piece "float" for a sec to allow any side pressure to dissipate. I've cut very small sliding dovetails in 1 1/2" purpleheart with this method. I favor FD Polar blades because they resist the side flex well.

"Not intended for use by persons under 14 years of age" I've seen stickers that state this.

Are these more or less dangerous than the glass globe ornaments still sold? Are they dangerous if used as intended? Just sell them.

ARRGGGHHHHHHHHHH!

My local library has the book, the original published in 2009, version .47 was released in 2009 so there is a lot of missing information.

Have you checked the blade for square to the table front to back?, if the top of the blade is positioned either in front or behind the bottom of the blade, you will get more aggressive cutting. This can be caused by a misalignment when putting the saw back together, by clamping at the wrong place on the blade clamp or reversing one of the blade clamps. Are you using pinned blades or pin less? If you are using pin less blades try some pinned or the reverse. See if there is a change. Let us know how it goes, what works and what doesn't.

Yep, they have many products that fit the machine, from the type that came with the machine to abrasive brushes, all of them are far too coarse/stiff for what I need (sanding fuzzies off of fretwork). Amazon has Klingspor products, just not what I need. Part of the frustration is the quagmire that internet searches have become i.e. search for a apple, get results that include oranges. This includes searches on business sites; Amazon, Lowes, Home depot, Ace hardware, etc.