Wichman
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Everything posted by Wichman
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The white is snow, snow covered mountains, paw prints in the snow.
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I found these plaques at Lowes, with the edges already routed. The pattern is a hybrid of two I found in the magazines, bear and mountain in one and the paw prints in another.
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I finally got this bear done. 1/2" plywood plaque. Mostly FD Polar #1 blades. Saw tooth hanger in back. Various stains, 3 coats spar urethane gloss.
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I've been experiencing the same thing lately with blades. I recently cut a piece that took a lot of blades to complete, 40 in all, I broke at least six of the blades before I even got them through the wood. These were from a reputable manufacturer and a know source. And yes, poo poo occurs
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You might want to try consignment sales, there are many consignment shops in your area. You could take day trips and check them out. I wouldn't approach any of them until the first of the year, it's go time right now and they are busy. Another thought is to have a younger family member staff your booth at the typical craft shows. Although I'm younger than you (62) moving the stuff for the last show made me hurt for a couple of days after. I'm going to have to rethink how I pack and transport to shows. Speaking of which......new thread to follow.
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Here is a link to the chuck I bought on Amazon it will tighten down on at least a #65 drill bit. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MS2RINK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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WARNING! There are two tapers on the drill press chuck. One that goes into the chuck and one that goes into the drill press. They are not the same taper. Here is a picture of my old chuck and the double taper . The taper towards the chuck is a JT33 taper. The taper that fits into the drill press is a Morse taper #2
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The only pictures I have are copyrighted. I'll have to cut out a letter to show what I mean.
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Have any of you used the single direction bevel cutting technique? I've seen this technique is Spielman's books using it for letters; the bevel is the same for all the cuts, i.e. left, right and a spiral blade must be used. This gives the letters a shadow effect. I'd like to try it on a couple of project and don't want to reinvent the wheel. Thanks in advance.
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Do you have a word processor on your computer? I know it sounds silly but anymore you have to either dl and install free or pay for the big boys. I use Libre Office (free). In the word processor there is a section to format the text, among the options is "outline text" Instead of the typical block text this option takes any font and makes it an outline (so you can follow the outline as a pattern). As for sizing, in Times New Roman font 1 point of font equals .01 inch in height (25 point font is 1/ 4 inch high, 100 point font is 1 inch high) Not all fonts follow this rule, but TNR does and it's a starting point.
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Woodworker from SE Wisconsin, Ready for scrolling
Wichman replied to DRugerH's topic in Introductions
Try coping saw blades. -
On my Hegner, at the top of the stroke, the point of contact with the bottom of the wood is about 1 inch above the bottom clamp. It would make sense for blades to commonly break there, heat and stress would be highest at that point.
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I read that as (1) piece, 2 1/4" thick. Did you mean (2) 1/4" pieces?
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I've had that problem with the redwood I've cut, to the point when what I've got is gone I won't cut it anymore. Have you tried moving the blower nozzle so that it blows more from the side than the top (if that is possible with your saw).
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I have a viable plan for the step-daughters ornaments. A family friend, about her age, has agreed to store and distribute ornaments after I pass. The plan is to have the friend send the yearly ornament 2 weeks before Christmas. Kind of the gift that keeps on giving.
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Looks like you got it figured out. What was the problem?
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I'm not sure the wood, one of them is cherry, but the rest are scraps I've saved. I have some black walnut that I'm going to cut (I'll post it when I do. So far it's just BLO for a finish.
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Some more ornaments, latest SSW and crafts magazine. The single ornament took 1 1/2hrs of cutting, the other two I stack cut, 1 3/4hrs cutting. 40 holes in both patterns. FD #1 polar blades, one blade did both patterns.
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Did you see my post about the wing? To cut the veining I used a FD new spiral 2/0 blade (diameter .031) and drilled pilot holes with a #65 (.035). The #60 drill bit is a little larger (.040) compare those numbers with a 1/16 bit (.0625). I get my blades and drill bits from Flying Dutchman.
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About 2 hrs of cutting, used 4 blades.
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Here are metal mesh filters for HVAC system, they have 20 x 20 in either 1 or 2 inch thick units, they are fairly expensive and they are NOT designed for small dust. https://www.grainger.com/search?cpnuser=undefined&searchBar=true&searchQuery=metal+mesh+filter+for+hvac+unit&suggestConfigId=6 Back when I was using a wood stove I bought a unit with a washable prefilter (cat hair) and a washable electrostatic main filter. It has worked very well for 8+ years. I have it set up to blow fresh air across the saw, in the same direction the saw blower goes.
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came from here on SSV
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Yes, stack of 8, 1/8" BB plywood. The cutting was slower than I'd like, I'm going to drop to 4 and see how it goes, then maybe do 6 for comparison.
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Just finished cutting these. Now for some sparkle paint. 1/8" BB, 8 layers (1" thick), #1 FD polar blades Can you tell which was the top and which was the bottom?
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So Rash could cut multiples of specific sizes (lengths) for various word length, but how would you align the lettering after the cutting the first part ?
