Wichman
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Everything posted by Wichman
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I'm not sure where to post this question so I'll do it here.
Wichman replied to OCtoolguy's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Ray, when you open the document properties menu, do you have the option to "resize page to content" ? it should be File > Document properties= pop up dialogue box Within the dialogue box: Page> General> display units (in)> page size (us letter)> orientation (portrait)> custom size (width, height, units) just underneath this (within the same thin line connecting them) is a right arrow (black triangle) that is labeled resize page to content. If you select this it take you to the margin adjustments. Have you tried tweaking these adjustments? -
I'm not sure where to post this question so I'll do it here.
Wichman replied to OCtoolguy's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Sorry, this is why I gave up printing from Inkscape or Gimp. Too many setting to try to remember to get an exact size print. Add to this that I just tried to print from Inkscape, to see if I could find the settings and guess what, my new latest greatest version of Inkscape for Linux will not print, not even a dialogue box, nothing (even the task manager shows no change in the resources Inkscape is using). Restarted the computer and all. Blech -
Very nice, better late than never
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Where were you spraying? Excellent work by the way.
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Frank, How did you handle the weight of the piece when it was overhanging the table? How did you orient the piece to avoid that?
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IMHO the frame should be small and simple 3/4 to 1 inch wide, black, with a sheen to match the piece framed (flat, semi-gloss, or gloss).
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The woman I made it for (Christmas gift for her granddaughter) told me that the other grandparent spoil the child. but this is a gift they can't get anywhere else.
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It's hard to tell from the picture, but, how well did the slant show up? Does it need to be more slanted? What size spiral blade did you use? Thanks in advance.
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A new wich stick, made for a young girl who needs a unique gift:
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The white is snow, snow covered mountains, paw prints in the snow.
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I found these plaques at Lowes, with the edges already routed. The pattern is a hybrid of two I found in the magazines, bear and mountain in one and the paw prints in another.
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I finally got this bear done. 1/2" plywood plaque. Mostly FD Polar #1 blades. Saw tooth hanger in back. Various stains, 3 coats spar urethane gloss.
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I've been experiencing the same thing lately with blades. I recently cut a piece that took a lot of blades to complete, 40 in all, I broke at least six of the blades before I even got them through the wood. These were from a reputable manufacturer and a know source. And yes, poo poo occurs
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You might want to try consignment sales, there are many consignment shops in your area. You could take day trips and check them out. I wouldn't approach any of them until the first of the year, it's go time right now and they are busy. Another thought is to have a younger family member staff your booth at the typical craft shows. Although I'm younger than you (62) moving the stuff for the last show made me hurt for a couple of days after. I'm going to have to rethink how I pack and transport to shows. Speaking of which......new thread to follow.
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Here is a link to the chuck I bought on Amazon it will tighten down on at least a #65 drill bit. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MS2RINK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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WARNING! There are two tapers on the drill press chuck. One that goes into the chuck and one that goes into the drill press. They are not the same taper. Here is a picture of my old chuck and the double taper . The taper towards the chuck is a JT33 taper. The taper that fits into the drill press is a Morse taper #2
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The only pictures I have are copyrighted. I'll have to cut out a letter to show what I mean.
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Have any of you used the single direction bevel cutting technique? I've seen this technique is Spielman's books using it for letters; the bevel is the same for all the cuts, i.e. left, right and a spiral blade must be used. This gives the letters a shadow effect. I'd like to try it on a couple of project and don't want to reinvent the wheel. Thanks in advance.
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Do you have a word processor on your computer? I know it sounds silly but anymore you have to either dl and install free or pay for the big boys. I use Libre Office (free). In the word processor there is a section to format the text, among the options is "outline text" Instead of the typical block text this option takes any font and makes it an outline (so you can follow the outline as a pattern). As for sizing, in Times New Roman font 1 point of font equals .01 inch in height (25 point font is 1/ 4 inch high, 100 point font is 1 inch high) Not all fonts follow this rule, but TNR does and it's a starting point.
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Woodworker from SE Wisconsin, Ready for scrolling
Wichman replied to DRugerH's topic in Introductions
Try coping saw blades. -
On my Hegner, at the top of the stroke, the point of contact with the bottom of the wood is about 1 inch above the bottom clamp. It would make sense for blades to commonly break there, heat and stress would be highest at that point.
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I read that as (1) piece, 2 1/4" thick. Did you mean (2) 1/4" pieces?
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I've had that problem with the redwood I've cut, to the point when what I've got is gone I won't cut it anymore. Have you tried moving the blower nozzle so that it blows more from the side than the top (if that is possible with your saw).
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I have a viable plan for the step-daughters ornaments. A family friend, about her age, has agreed to store and distribute ornaments after I pass. The plan is to have the friend send the yearly ornament 2 weeks before Christmas. Kind of the gift that keeps on giving.
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Looks like you got it figured out. What was the problem?
