Wichman

Here are the latest, these are custom patterns per requests at the market. Material cost is about $3 ea. I may be able to reduce that if the book holders sell.

One issue I have with the longer "name with a rose" is cutting the very end of the piece. The table is rather small and the end being cut wants to raise off the table; so I am trying to create a counterbalance. First attempt is a extra small spring clamp and a small magnet. So far so good and the clamp fits under the Quick clamp knob. Have any of you had these issues, how did you compensate? When I mount the scroll saw to the miter saw stand I'm going to make an auxiliary table to fix this.

Vicki, I was trying to show that you can use the "waste" area of a cutting as a template to hold the desired pieces in place. The "name with a rose" was cut as a single piece, not each letter individually. The drop outs were then glued to a backer board using the single piece to temporally keep them aligned. The bottom picture was to show all the pieces are in alignment.

This is my method for keeping freestanding letters and figure aligned. !. plan the pattern for where you want/need it to be aligned. Add indexing marks to align the letters ( marks drawn out to the edge of the piece to be cut ). Use you preferred method but tape the back of the piece to be cut. 2. Using the smallest drill bit for the blade, drill the pilot hole as close the pattern as possible in the waste area. using the smallest blade you can, cut the outline of the letters. 3. As you cut, save the letters ( or fallout ) and tape them back into the pattern as you go ( I didn't do this and lost the small heart on the left side ). 4. When finished cutting make sure the top of the piece has all the dropouts tape back in place. 5. Turn the piece over and remove the bottom tape from the letters only. 6. apply glue to the letters, if you leave the tape on the rest of the pattern you can use it as a mask and either spray or roll adhesive on the back. Peel the mask off the back of the piece. 7. Turn the piece right side up and using the alignment marks carefully place on the desired substrate. Peel off the tape holding the pieces together. Gently lift the "waste" off the letters.....And Bob's your uncle:

A suggestion at the market a couple of weeks ago and I thought this might be a good way to use up some thicker scraps. Thumb book holders. You put your thumb in the hole and then pinch the book between you fingers and thumb keeps the book open and is pretty. Here's the purty one. 3/4 box elder burl, #3 FD Polar blades, one coat BLO, I'm planing one multiple coats of shellac, until it's good and shiny. I printed out one page of patterns to see how well they will sell at the FM here's the batch so far:

Another name with a rose....and lots of fancy dodads. This is a memorial piece for the deceased son of a gentleman here in town. The sons hobby and interest was rubber ducks so that what I used for bridging. 3/4 poplar. Rose pattern by Steve Good, ducks from Scroll Saw Handbook (Spielman) FD Polar #1 throughout. It will get BLO and then several coats of shellac (until it gets a little shine).

Very nice. Did you have any trouble with the cherry burning? Did you do anything special to mitigate the potential for burning?

Here are some by arpop https://web.archive.org/web/20171109204201/http://fssp-arpop.blogspot.com/search/label/Animals-Domestic

It's not true inlay, the cuts are not angled. I just cut it with a tiny 2/0 blade.

The cherry stain didn't darken the pine as much as the last time. Such are the perils of thrift store finds.

From "Southwest Scroll Saw Patterns" Patrick Spielman and Dan Kihl. 3/4 Pine, FD #2/0 blades throughout, cherry stain for the background and details, natural stain for the body. Quarter for scale.

I was born and raised in Ajo. I remember some hot temps. Really nice cutting.

My only advise would be to add another blower (aquarium pump) to provide additional air cooling to the blade.

I use BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits. When I can I use a 1 gallon paint can to mix, dip, and store the BLO. The BLO is good at making the grain "pop", the thinned mixture flows into small crevices better than the regular BLO. The thinned mixture also penetrates better and dries cures faster.

So 4, maybe 5, 1/4"board? I'm looking at how much stock I have that could be used for a clock. I think I have plenty.

How thick was that piece of cherry? Inquiring minds want to know.

Very, very nice. Good to see others still doing the "old school" cutting and assembly. My pricing guide from Wildwood (1999) shows a low ball selling price of $600, the high ball price of $2000 and a suggested price of $1500. I would love to make this type of project, but I don't think anyone in town would be willing to pay what it is worth. I know you didn't make it to sell, but whoever ends up with it needs to know the value.

I may have to steal the Grinches idea.

A quick update. When I saw the pictures online I thought the lack of contrast "lost" the image. So I took out the center and stained the outside "cherry". All finished, now I need a box to put it in. I found #2 x 1/4 screws at Lowes to attach the hanger.

Well I finally was able to dl some of the patterns, you have to play around with things a bit. Changing the archive date in the upper right hand corner of the new page helps, some of the time.

The web page opens and it shows some of the patterns. But, none of the pattern or other links open.

Small plaque (5" x 7" x 5/16") Pattern from a book "southwest patterns". Cut using FD scroll reverse #1 for the interior cuts, outside cut with FD Polar #3/0. This took a little longer, every time I got done with a fragile area I would put superglue on the back to reinforce the wood. Quarter for scale. To cut just the outside of the pattern took an hour.

Looks like they closed up shop. The archive link doesn't go to any of the patterns.

Murphy was an optimist!

Can you see him? A Brontosaurus head and neck in the grain. I can't wait to try some new techniques on this. Just over 5 feet long. "Bronty"