Wichman

Various projects for the market; drying in the shop. I have several lengths of rebar, so I utilizing it for drying projects.

So, I had the thumb book holders on display last week, and actually remembered some books. I just need something to display how it works....something......something... ! some "thing". Due to the interconnectedness of the universe, Steve Good had a pattern this week of a hand holding a heart. A little work with Inkscape and I made a "thing" :

Gene, Do you use Inkscape? There is a free extension for it that makes jigsaw puzzles. https://inkscape.org/~Neon22/★lasercut-jigsaw

yesss

JT Here is a picture of the large panel. This is not mine, it's where I got the Idea. Didn't think I'd ever be able to do one ( cost of the wood ) but I took down a large Elm tree and had it slabbed up. I now have 13 boards to play with.

I know you haven't been around so you probably haven't seen my posts on how I'm setting up my shop. I'm basing all my smaller tools on a miter saw stand. So far I've mounted; delta SS, miter saw, lunch box planer, bench top band saw, router, 4 x 36 belt sander, 14" metal cutting saw. Still to be mounted: Hegner SS, 1 x 30 belt sander, surface conditioning tool, mounted upside down w/foot switch, auxiliary tables for the Hegner. I want to be able to scroll very large panels ( 20" x 8' ) I have 13 1/2" thick panels to play with. I've got everything I need, just need to put it all together. The miter saw stand allows me to plane 8' boards with no snipe so it should work with supporting the scroll work, I'll be using spiral blades.

I like this one. Not a true scroll saw project, but it's pretty neat: https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/kissmas-tree

A small rose. Pattern by Steve Good, 1/8 inch unknown wood, #2/0 Polar blade throughout (1 blade). One coat BLO, two coats shellac, uncut quarter for scale. These sell well at the market, but are a misprint on the size, and I hate to print anything and then not cut it. I was able to get some stuff done over the last couple of weeks, more in my gallery

Well, poo.

Here are the latest, these are custom patterns per requests at the market. Material cost is about $3 ea. I may be able to reduce that if the book holders sell.

One issue I have with the longer "name with a rose" is cutting the very end of the piece. The table is rather small and the end being cut wants to raise off the table; so I am trying to create a counterbalance. First attempt is a extra small spring clamp and a small magnet. So far so good and the clamp fits under the Quick clamp knob. Have any of you had these issues, how did you compensate? When I mount the scroll saw to the miter saw stand I'm going to make an auxiliary table to fix this.

Vicki, I was trying to show that you can use the "waste" area of a cutting as a template to hold the desired pieces in place. The "name with a rose" was cut as a single piece, not each letter individually. The drop outs were then glued to a backer board using the single piece to temporally keep them aligned. The bottom picture was to show all the pieces are in alignment.

This is my method for keeping freestanding letters and figure aligned. !. plan the pattern for where you want/need it to be aligned. Add indexing marks to align the letters ( marks drawn out to the edge of the piece to be cut ). Use you preferred method but tape the back of the piece to be cut. 2. Using the smallest drill bit for the blade, drill the pilot hole as close the pattern as possible in the waste area. using the smallest blade you can, cut the outline of the letters. 3. As you cut, save the letters ( or fallout ) and tape them back into the pattern as you go ( I didn't do this and lost the small heart on the left side ). 4. When finished cutting make sure the top of the piece has all the dropouts tape back in place. 5. Turn the piece over and remove the bottom tape from the letters only. 6. apply glue to the letters, if you leave the tape on the rest of the pattern you can use it as a mask and either spray or roll adhesive on the back. Peel the mask off the back of the piece. 7. Turn the piece right side up and using the alignment marks carefully place on the desired substrate. Peel off the tape holding the pieces together. Gently lift the "waste" off the letters.....And Bob's your uncle:

A suggestion at the market a couple of weeks ago and I thought this might be a good way to use up some thicker scraps. Thumb book holders. You put your thumb in the hole and then pinch the book between you fingers and thumb keeps the book open and is pretty. Here's the purty one. 3/4 box elder burl, #3 FD Polar blades, one coat BLO, I'm planing one multiple coats of shellac, until it's good and shiny. I printed out one page of patterns to see how well they will sell at the FM here's the batch so far:

Another name with a rose....and lots of fancy dodads. This is a memorial piece for the deceased son of a gentleman here in town. The sons hobby and interest was rubber ducks so that what I used for bridging. 3/4 poplar. Rose pattern by Steve Good, ducks from Scroll Saw Handbook (Spielman) FD Polar #1 throughout. It will get BLO and then several coats of shellac (until it gets a little shine).

Very nice. Did you have any trouble with the cherry burning? Did you do anything special to mitigate the potential for burning?

Here are some by arpop https://web.archive.org/web/20171109204201/http://fssp-arpop.blogspot.com/search/label/Animals-Domestic

It's not true inlay, the cuts are not angled. I just cut it with a tiny 2/0 blade.

The cherry stain didn't darken the pine as much as the last time. Such are the perils of thrift store finds.

From "Southwest Scroll Saw Patterns" Patrick Spielman and Dan Kihl. 3/4 Pine, FD #2/0 blades throughout, cherry stain for the background and details, natural stain for the body. Quarter for scale.

I was born and raised in Ajo. I remember some hot temps. Really nice cutting.

My only advise would be to add another blower (aquarium pump) to provide additional air cooling to the blade.

I use BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits. When I can I use a 1 gallon paint can to mix, dip, and store the BLO. The BLO is good at making the grain "pop", the thinned mixture flows into small crevices better than the regular BLO. The thinned mixture also penetrates better and dries cures faster.

So 4, maybe 5, 1/4"board? I'm looking at how much stock I have that could be used for a clock. I think I have plenty.

How thick was that piece of cherry? Inquiring minds want to know.