Wichman

Deadman switch, I now have three of them. A lighted magnifier is next.

I keep a small collection of construction paper in various colors, I can slip them behind the item and get a feel for what I think works best.

Welcome from SE Idaho.

Two ideas for you; 1. Ensuring the can is well sealed, turn the can upside down any skin or oxidation will occur on the " bottom " of the can. 2. Https://www.amazon.com/Bloxygen-Preserver-Spray-Seal-Store/dp/B01MU589ZQ/ref=asc_df_B01MU589ZQ?mcid=9f249891fde53f0bbb3f53c97a2a3b48&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693354973425&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10633570067031530619&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1016216&hvtargid=pla-647121067872&psc=1

Are you using a foot switch? When a blade break and the saw keeps running, the adjustment knob can turn on it's own. When I'm installing the blade in a bottom clamp I position the blade against the screw then move the blade just a fraction so the screw doesn't move the blade, then tighten. I feel that I get a more consistent blade length when I do this. Same with the quick clamp, I start with the blade slightly below and behind the quick clamp then gently pull the blade top forward and the arm down until the blade is past the screw, let the blade slide into the clamp, and top out the blade in the clamp and tighten.

I use the FD 2/0 new spiral. A note about spirals in the blade clamps: The bottom clamp is pretty straight forward but the quick clamp, it's easier to start with the blade outside the clamp, then position the blade so that the flattest part of the blade is aligned with the clamp screw, move the blade backwards into the clamp, gently top out the blade in the clamp and tighten. Sounds complicated but it's really not, this just avoids the blade catching on the clamps internal parts.

How tight is the quick clamp in the holder?

Are you using the quick clamp?

I just spent a half hour cutting with the #5 blade from Advanced Machinery, I didn't break a blade and the blade is still sharp enough to continue cutting with. Test cut in 3/4 Poplar, tension 5, speed 1600, quick clamp :

Are these the PB#5 blades in the assortment pack? What tension are you using? On the Hegner we measure tension by quarter turns after meeting resistance, I usually start at 3 for thin stock and up to 7 for thick ( 1 1/2" ) or hard wood. Where are the blades breaking, top at the clamp, somewhere in the middle, or at the bottom clamp? I'll try some out of my assortment pack and get back to you.

Funny you should say that. You can use pin end blades in the Hegner. Just take out the blade clamp and voila. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the top pin... Still have to drill a larger pilot hole and the blade selection is not very good.

I had two special projects this year. The first, a fishing rod rack, still not finished, I've been having trouble with the epoxy not setting up. And, I would rather put it away for a bit, other wise I could lose my temper and break something. This project is way beyond anything I've done before. The second is a wedding gift for a young couple that I know. I was experimenting with a new technique, multiple panels cut separately then combined and a full size backer used to tie the panels together.

This is a chart with all of Dremel's bits on it. The top of the chart has carving bits, that's where you'll want to start. There are coarse bits to hog away material, less coarse bits to refine a profile and then flap wheels and drums to smooth to your preference. A word of caution, these bits may slip in the drill chuck acessorry, so use the right size collet. Near the bottom of the chart is a blower acessorry, it works and helps keep the area you're working on clear. https://www.dremel.com/binaries/content/assets/dremel/us/products/rotary-accessory-guide.pdf?srsltid=AfmBOorf_2Ei-ifJ9etEYzPr7f20Wpb1T1YHNVy1MKoP1Fq4TS6u3o3O

Try using a larger blade to get used to the clamps. The tension lever on top is also the tension adjustment. Make sure the lever is in the forward position, then back off the tension as much as you can ( turn counter clockwise to reduce tension ). Now start adjusting.

Picture: Clamp closed, you can see the "fixture" at the top of the clamp. Clamp open:

Start by releasing the tension by pulling the tension lever forward. The blade is installed from the front, so in front of the screw. The blade clamp (s) may need to be adjusted for your blade, pg 12 in the manual. Install the bottom of the blade first, back against the screw, then pull the lever forward to clamp. Repeat for top clamp. There should be a fixture that the blade rests on ( on the bottom clamp ) and on the top clamp you lower the upper arm until the blade is pressed against it's fixture, then pull the lever forward to clamp. Finally push the tension lever back to re-tension the blade.

Are there locking levers on both the upper and lower clamps?

Happens to All of us. Just trying to help

According to the manual I found online, on page 17, it states that it uses 5" blades. The picture of the upper clamp shows a quick set clamp that uses plain end blades.

Right after dipping I tap the piece against the side of the plastic tote I store the solution in, for about 30 seconds, I then hang the piece by a convenient hole in the piece and wait with a paper towel for about a minute to dab any droplets of Shellac. Wait about 15 minutes for the first coat to dry and then repeat. Allow to dry until hard , about an hour, then very lightly sand with 320 to remove any ridges or nubs. Use air to blow off any dust, then use spray Shellac ( I use rattle can ) with very light coats ( one pass ) until desired gloss is achieved. Temperature and humidity are major factors in the dry/cure times. Too much heat to soon will cause bubbling of the Shellac ( the surface dries and the alcohol underneath forms bubbles as it escapes, to fix the soak the piece in alcohol briefly to dissolve the Shellac and continue) for the final coat allow to dry well and place in a warm area ( I put mine on a rack above a heater vent, surface temperature of 95° ), this helps to cure the Shellac to a hard finish.

I use the back of the blade or a "bone folder" unless I have a long pattern ( magic wand 13" long); then I use a small sheet metal brake from HF, I use scissors to cut small slits at the ends of the fold lines, the pattern is face down at this point.

Yes, just how fast do you need it dry? And what are you willing to pay for speed? There is a new finish that dries/cured in two minutes under UV light. Last I checked it was more than $200/gal. My go to finish for speed is Shellac (in a can) diluted 50/50 with denatured alcohol. Dries in minutes, cures in a day or so, faster in a warm area. And no need to sand in between coats.

In my opinion, fresh pine construction lumber is a good choice. Old pine gets pretty hard and can be difficult to cut. Do not start with redwood or any hardwood with distinct bands in the wood the difference between the soft and hard zones make cutting, when you can't see the grain, difficult.

When you get ready to print a pattern make sure the fold line is as thin as you can while still able to see the line. Fold the pattern as accurately on the line as you can ( a ruler with a cork strip helps to keep slipping to a minimum ) , once the fold is started gently continue to fold to a sharp crease. Unfold the crease to about 120°, spray with adhesive, start the pattern on one edge and holding that edge with one finger, carefully set the pattern down the crease. Starting at the center of the pattern, press one side down working from the center out. Once one side is down, repeat for other side. Once you cut the first side ( I cut the wider of the two sides first ), you will need a way to hold the first cut in place while you cut the second. There two common methods to do this; 1. Use a jig. 2 tape the pieces together with clear packing tape, the tape has to be clear so you can see the pattern. Press the tape firmly, otherwise sawdust can get underneath the tape and obscure the pattern lines. Troubleshooting: If the cut piece will only come out one direction then the table is not square to the blade. If the cut piece will not come out either side, then the blade is bending inside the cut; a dull blade, not enough tension, or the wrong blade style can be to blame. If one side is thinner than the other then; Blank is not square, the pattern is kitty wampus, the table is not square to the blade, all of the above.

I would start with coping saw blades, you'll have to pull the pins out, but that's doable. If you like the saw and scrolling you can get bandsaw blades down to a #5 scroll blade from a Pegas dealer, not sure if Denny carries those. It would work out to about a dollar a blade.