Wichman
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Everything posted by Wichman
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I started with just spray adhesive to the wood, far too much work to remove the pattern. Then I tried packing tape, better, but clear packing tape is a royal pain for me: static electricity makes it very hard to manage. Then I tried blue painters tape, still have 1/2 a roll somewhere. Okay, but takes several strips for each piece of wood. Last year I started using clear self adhesive shelf liner (Duck brand). I have paper cutters and use them to size the shelf liner to the piece of wood, one piece of shelf liner per side and done, note that the shelf liner stays tightly rolled until the backer is removed... then it relaxes and is fairly easy to apply. In my experience the shelf liner maintains good adhesion for extended periods of time and then removes easily with little or no residue (the welcome sign took several months to complete, the only issue was the paper pattern overlap not staying down, problem with the paper and not the liner). Your mileage may vary.
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Two coats of Minwax "Early American" on the letters, two coats of "dark walnut" on the birds, used an xcato Knife to put a light score line where I wanted to stain to stop, worked pretty good.
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I tested an idea today, if I use an exacto knife to make a very light score the stain will stop at the score line. I will try to post pictures as I continue the piece.
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About 4 hrs of cutting. Top; 5/16 hardwood, FD R #3. Bottom; 5/16 hardwood I cut all the interior, then laminated another 5/16 board to the top with gorilla glue (need to use more weight). After letting the piece cure for 24 hrs, cut the exterior. I just need to finish the piece (soak in BLO) and attach to the house I'm thinking about darkening the letters with a stain pen to make them stand out a bit (before the BLO). What do you think?
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Just finished cutting the outside, Still need to apply BLO. This ones going to decorate 'my' house (to test the finish in the weather).
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Nice, very nice.
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Very, very nice
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One reason I go to the thrift stores is to check out what scroll work is there and how long it takes to sell. Pretty much anything that lingers on the shelf is not a design or type of project that I want for craft fairs.
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Found a solid wood trivet at a local thrift store; I liked the grain pattern so I adjusted a trivet pattern for size and bingo; a one off for the craft fairs.
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Spiral blades work well for cutting plexiglass. Something about the structure keeps the blade from melting the plexi. To rip long sections of plexi, use an oscillating multi tool with a half round blade; I had to rip 8 ft strips once and the OMT did the job flawlessly.
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To make my heart boxes I have to cut a sliding dovetail joint in 1 1/2 (6/4) Oak, and I've cut these in the same thickness in purpleheart. Right now I'm using FD Corian blades (no longer available) #3 and they work fairly well, when I order more I'll get FD polar #1 (personal preference, I like small blades). I'm using a Delta 40-560 two speed scrollsaw, I always cut on high speed (I've tried to cut on low, still try every now and then but; no).
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Totally me unles I keep a tight rein. And today I meet with a local sawyer about new wood (local sourced hardwood cut to my specifications). Can't wait to retire and have more free time (that's sarcasm).
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Meflick, Congress first sent metric scales and weights to the various States in 1866, if we had adopted the metric system then...
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I had some really cheap carbon steel drill bits, I could bend them 90 degrees without them breaking. They didn't flex they bent and stayed bent until I straightened them with vise grips and continued to drill.
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Maybe, just maybe the problem is that the drill bit is flexing while drilling so that the bit is not 90 degrees in the hole, which would mean that the length of the bit isn't enough with the additional angle. So, with that said: What material are you drilling through? I was drilling pine, near a knot, with a small bit and it would not drill straight, the drill ibt would curve away from the hard knot. What type of drill bit are you using, i.e. HSS, carbon steel, alloy, titanium oxide coated, etc? Cobalt drill bits are the stiffest I've found. What speed are you using, when I use small bits I crank the speed up to max.
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Lots O smiles on Christmas.
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Very nice. Kudos.
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VID_20190108_204944.mp4 Well I think I've taken this to a higher level than I thought possible, The pin pulls out and is a key .
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What kind of prep are you doing to the wood? I use a ROS with 220 grit to prep the wood, then a lightly moistened cloth to get the sawdust.
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VID_20190108_204944.mp4
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Nice. Very nice.
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Is this a serious question? It's not that hard (well the 1 1/2 deep cuts) but the parts HAVE to be cut in a specific order.
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The second practice is to tilt the table to a 20 degree angle. As before cut a straight line then spin the piece 180 degrees and come back out the same kerf. You will get a small cone from the bottom of the piece you are cutting. You are after a perfect cone. Third: with the table at 90 degrees to the blade cut an S shape, then spin the piece and cut back out the kerf. When you draw the lines, use the smallest pencil you can, try to cut with pencil marks showing on both sides of the blade. If you use these practice cut you will be training your brain and muscles how to react to the way your machine handles. After 30+ years of cutting, I still use these practice cuts when I try new blades or if I switch materials I either haven't used before or haven't used in a long time.
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Careful using that soft wood, it tends to splinter easier than a tight grained hardwood (ya I know the hardwood is harder to find and somewhat more expensive). and by splinter I mean have small pieces break off for no apparent reason (guess how I know ).
