FrankEV

Very nice. I would use a small glass Tea Light holder so wax soes not run down and ruin the beautiful scroll work.

Cut the stuck piece in half or thirds if necessary so it has room to fall out. I have had the same thing happen in a complicated piece of fretwork, so I jujst cut up in pieces until it falls out.

I posted both of these before under Bragging Rights with long winded stories. Both of these were made for my Lady who loves Hummingbirds. I made the Hummingbird lamp a few weeks back and it was supposed to be a supprise for Christmas but, as things go, she got to see it and claimed it right there and then. So I managed to make the Hummingbird Jewelry box without her catching me, posted pics of it a few days ago, and then wrapped it and put it under the tree before she found it. Whew...took some doing. I have one more gift to make for Christmas at my daughters request and I'm cutting it thin (no pun intended) time wise. I ordered a special pattern from Scroller over a week ago and it has not arrived yet. If it shows up soon and I'm able to finish and ship in time for it to get to NY by Christmas I'll grab a quick pic and post it. Wish me luck. Edit: OOPs, I did forget to include a pic of the six Christmas Crosses (Stack cut) I made for neighbors and family members: Edit #2: In case anyone is interested, I did manage to make the Gift my daughter requested and shipped it to NY. The package is sitting in the FedEX facility near her (today 12/17), but deliveries are being held up by the snow stome in the NE. She will get it tommorow so still made iot in time for Christmas with a little time to spare. Edit #3: (12/22) Thought I would just add another gift I just made for my Lady. Look under Braging Rights "R" if for my Lady.

Excelent cut. Gaurenteed you daughter will lovee it but can any daughter-in-law please her mother-in-law...that is the real question? Should be a good try though!

Well done. I also especially like the Bee's.

You have done it again...absolutely awsome! Your imagination on how to present you work is amazing.

Beautiful! Wondering how you find the patterns designed to be cut by laser work for scroll saw cutting. I see a lot of very thin work projecting into space that I would think is very dificult to cut. I ran into this same situation with a humming bird cut I did a while back.

Easily done with another 1/4" layer on the end panels that are shorter by the vertical dimension of the tray. Would be glued on just before adding the felt liner.

Nice work! Panel looks thick. Details would be nice.

Yep, dipped in Minwax Barn Red stain then a quick wipe off with blue shop towels. I tend to use small blades for most of my cutting. Better line following control. Easier to make those "going in the other direction" turns. I onlyt use a large blade when I'm cutting a long straight line...it seem easier to do a straight cut with a large blade.

I apologise for another long story. A couple of recent post showing a box projects got me looking for one I might like to do. I found a Steve Good box pattern called Hummerbox, which has a Hummingbird and flowers in the top panel (Perfect for another Christmas Present for my lady). As downloaded, the box was 7”L x 4”W x 3 ½” H and was suggested to use 1/4” thick material. The pattern was for notch and tab construction which left panel edges exposed. The pictures which came with the pattern showed using painted backer to highlight the scrollwork, an idea I liked very much. I decided on this cut pattern for my first box as it was relatively simple, but did not think the box size was correct and I did not like the method of the box construction. My previous woodworking (BC scroll saw work) box building skills prevailed, so changes were necessary. After converting the PDF pages to a JPG file and then inserting the images into Inkscape, I used the TRACE BITMAP command to make an editable pattern. I then did some editing to increase the box size to 10” L x 5 1/2” W x 5” H and eliminated the notches and tabs. I converted the line work to red with a light gray fill at the same time. I cut the scroll work out of 5/32” thick Maple solid core plywood and created duplicate size backer panels out of 5/32” thick Walnut solid core plywood. I darkened the Walnut backers with Minwax Walnut stain to improve the contrast. The backers were glued to the cut panels (which I had stack cut) forming 5/16” thick side, end and top panels. After the glue up of the panels was complete, I used my table saw to create a nominal 1/8” W x 1/8” D dado for a 1/8” x 9 ¾” L x 5 ¼” W BB ply bottom panel. I then stack cut the glued up panels to remove the bottom cut out area between the legs. Like the process I use for the Oak Hummingbird Lamp I previously made, I beveled the vertical edges of the end and side panels with my vertical belt sander to 45 degrees, which allowed the box to be assembled with clean sharp corners. Before final assembly and glue up, I applied Red Felt to the interior face of the box walls and bottom using contact cement. Since the top is also two layers of plywood, the edges are exposed in this design and I was not happy with how it looked. I used my router to create an L-shaped trim piece out of some solid maple that I applied like a frame to the top and hung down about 1/8” all around which acts as a lid keeper for the un-hinged top. (This worked but, if I was to build this box again, I would do the top differently, using 3/8” or ½” thick solid wood instead of plywood with and undersized ¼” thick backer that would act as the keeper. if I can find a piece of Solid maple I may redo the top for this box.) Here is my version of the Hummingbird Box. And, just for your information I've attached the Steve Good PDF. hummerbox.pdf Late edit: As I looked at my box I think a big upgrade in the design would be a felt lined drop in comparmented tray easily constructed of 1/8" plywood. My Lady is a jewleryholic and never has enough storage for her jewlery.

Once again...outstanding! Great panel and a very well done frame for it. Your productions seems to be prolific. Just curious as to approximately how many shop hours do you spend on a project such as this one? With cutting, finishing and framing I'm happy if I can complete an 11X14 flat fretwork portrait in under a week, and I'm retired with plenty of time on my hands.

Inspired by a post by Charlie E "Initial Ornaments", I decided to try my hand at these reatively simple Steve Good Ornament poatterns. I made the clamp he suggested with the patterns for holding the block while cutting. I used 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" Poplar I purchased at Lowes. Nice and square and cuts well. The cutting was done with Pegas #1 MGT R blade. The Red ones are stained and lacqured, the green trees simply spray painted. As I was informed, these are not very dificult and that was correct. Centering the hole for the hanging hook was the most difficult. I do not have a drill press and the pre-drilled hole in the block was not perfectly vertical in the red ornaments. I waited to drill the holes in the Green trees until after the cut was completed. Using my small drill bit in my dremel i still had difficulty centering the hole. This was a fun little project and these will be hung on my tree. However, I don't think I will be doing much compound work in the future. Not quite my preference for the kind of work I like to do. In case you are wondering they are hanging on a stretched piece of fishing line .

You did good...will be a cherished gift I'm sure.

That is a great cut from a well done pattern. You gang with your pictures of your dogs is makeing me wish I had a dog again. Always had a dog in our family until my last one passed and I retired and moved South.

Beautiful...he will love it. Boo boo's are not apparent. We are our own worst critics...aren't we?

Great work...love it. However, the even better work was making it 57 years. Bet you enjoyed cutting the bikini

Great work. Love the pooch! I don't hate cats but like dogs more (not your cuts...real ones!).

No pic, it did not happen!!!

Looking at the pic, I think your problem is not the height of the saw but the fact that you are probably sitting or standing toooooo far awy from the saw causing you to bend over way too much. I would consider redoing the mounting board with a cantelever to allow the saw to move out maybe 4 to 6 inches and you find an ajdustable stool that allows you to sit at the saw comfortably. You might also want to consider rasiing the back of the saw an inch to two making looking down onto the work a little easier with less back/neck bend. Wether you sit or stand, I find your arms (from the wrists to the elbow) should be fairly horizontal and be level with , or slightly above, the level of the saw table.

I've done a couple of stack cuts recenly and just used either double stick tape or just painters tape to wrap an edge. I can see the posible use of a pin nailer if the stack is going to be thicker than 1/2" and fairly large in dimension. I also believe that to use a pin nailer you would need to have perimerter waste area to nail in that gets cut away at the very end. Since I do mostly portraits and presize my panels to fit a frame size I want to use, there is no perimeter waste area. If I wanted to stack cut a portrait it would likely be only two or three 1/8" thick layers anyway and therefore a pin nailer would not be usible. Using double stick tape I can separate the cut panels with a razor blade very easily. Taped edges are even easier to separate. That all being said I personally do not see the value in using a pin nailer to stack cut. However, since a lot of you do, I would like to hear more pro arguments for the use of a pin nailer when stack Cutting. JFYI, I happen to own a number of air nailers from a framing nailer down to a 23GA pin nailer and two air staplers. Most are Porter Cable that are many years old while one stapler is a Harbor Fraight recent addition. Pin nailers are greate for eliminating clamps when doing large progect glue ups, but most scroll saw work is so light that glue up never requires more tha a few clamps or sometimes jjust a heavy weight like a brick or can of paint.

My workshop is an 8X10 shed with a contractors table saw, 5' long work bench, a sanding station, a router table, my scroll saw in the middle and a bunch of hand and portable power tools. All walls are covered with shelves and hanging tools. My home is a small Florida 2 bedroom house with lots of artwork on the walls already, although I have already added a number of pieces I've made for my lady. So, I literally have no walls (to hang anything on that is).

Great assembly of your work. Wish I had walls to hang my work on!

Absolutely love the Dream Catcher. Beautiful job.

Well done. Great way to remember him.