Dave Monk Posted June 5, 2016 Report Posted June 5, 2016 I really don't like to paint projects but people are liking it, especially on sports plaques. I have been painting the backers sports color with a rattle can and then gluing on my scroll work. When it is dry I put a clear coat over the whole thing. I have had to redo a few projects because of the base paint coat wrinklied up. I have never had that problem with flat black but I have not found bright colors in flat finishes. I have tried brushing on acrylic craft paint but I am not happy with the brush strokes I get. I would appreciate you sharing any paint process you use. dave lawson56 1 Quote
amazingkevin Posted June 5, 2016 Report Posted June 5, 2016 I really don't like to paint projects but people are liking it, especially on sports plaques. I have been painting the backers sports color with a rattle can and then gluing on my scroll work. When it is dry I put a clear coat over the whole thing. I have had to redo a few projects because of the base paint coat wrinklied up. I have never had that problem with flat black but I have not found bright colors in flat finishes. I have tried brushing on acrylic craft paint but I am not happy with the brush strokes I get. I would appreciate you sharing any paint process you use. dave I spend way to much time on projects and no matter what they like it.I'd like to leave an impression so i could get repeat work but that's not happening enough to go the extra mile,In fact I've gone 10 extra miles to impress and nothings changed,I'm at wits end to generate more work?I've hand painted beach scenes on over 800 names ,I did absolutely nothing in my pocket? Dave Monk 1 Quote
Lucky2 Posted June 5, 2016 Report Posted June 5, 2016 Sorry Dave, I don't paint my projects, so I'm no help with this one. Len Dave Monk 1 Quote
MTCowpoke22 Posted June 5, 2016 Report Posted June 5, 2016 I do the same thing you do. Sports themed cutouts are the only ones where I use color. My issue is that some times the glue doesn't hold them together as well. Dave Monk 1 Quote
WayneMahler Posted June 5, 2016 Report Posted June 5, 2016 My wife has started to paint some of my work. I don't care for it. But it seems some folks like it. Not much help just the experience I have had. Dave Monk 1 Quote
stu Posted June 5, 2016 Report Posted June 5, 2016 Don't like to paint wood much myself but recently did dream catchers in camouflage flat base acrylics with air brush work great Stu Dave Monk 1 Quote
lawson56 Posted June 5, 2016 Report Posted June 5, 2016 I do a lot of painting,Sports related.I use craft paint for the 3D letters,My Plaques I use the Shaker cans.I have used different colors over the yrs.Never had any problem with them.or the paint wrinkling up.wish I could help. Dave Monk 1 Quote
tonylumps Posted June 5, 2016 Report Posted June 5, 2016 I really got into RC cars ,trucks and tanks.All of your kits need painting I was going crazy with rattle cans,brushes.I ended up getting an airbrush kit off of Amazon.They are reasonably priced and once you get the hang of it you will never go back to the Smith Barney way. Dave Monk 1 Quote
tonylumps Posted June 5, 2016 Report Posted June 5, 2016 I don't like to paint wood either.Did only one project and used an Airbrush for it WayneMahler, danny and Dave Monk 3 Quote
NC Scroller Posted June 5, 2016 Report Posted June 5, 2016 While not often I have painted backers with both latex and acrylic paints (non black) and had no issues with applying a clear rattle can spray after final assembly. I have used spray can lacquer, poly, and shellac. I normally wait two full days or longer for the paint to dry before assembly. Weather permitting I will even put them in the sun for a couple hours to help the drying process. Dave Monk 1 Quote
ike Posted June 5, 2016 Report Posted June 5, 2016 I only paint the backers, it makes the project stand out and the people seem to like it If I use black i use black lacquer. on the colors I use a craft paint and apply with a foam brush., No complaints. Dave Monk 1 Quote
Scrolling Steve Posted June 5, 2016 Report Posted June 5, 2016 While not often I have painted backers with both latex and acrylic paints (non black) and had no issues with applying a clear rattle can spray after final assembly. I have used spray can lacquer, poly, and shellac. I normally wait two full days or longer for the paint to dry before assembly. Weather permitting I will even put them in the sun for a couple hours to help the drying process. Scott has hit on the most important part.......Let it get dry......really dry....I was to impatient at first and had bad results....like ti try and airbrush someday . Dave Monk 1 Quote
Kepy Posted June 5, 2016 Report Posted June 5, 2016 I have used spray paint for the backers and found that they like the colors. Never had a problem with it wrinkling (maybe too thick too fast). Let it dry then use E6000 glue to attach the cutting. Either clamp or weigh it down for the glue to dry. Dave Monk and WayneMahler 2 Quote
Barry5180 Posted June 5, 2016 Report Posted June 5, 2016 It just sounds like the base coat just hasn't fully dried before you're applying the clear coat. Try waiting an extra day or so, especially if it's humid, before applying the clear coat and see what happens. You could even test it on a piece of scrap of the same species before painting the next project. Barry Dave Monk 1 Quote
Dave Monk Posted June 5, 2016 Author Report Posted June 5, 2016 I must admit that I probably get over anxious to get a project done. dave Quote
orangeman Posted June 5, 2016 Report Posted June 5, 2016 I just attended a class on finishing and the presenter was a big fan of milk paint. But he said it dries dull and needs a top coat of something. Dave Monk 1 Quote
edward Posted June 5, 2016 Report Posted June 5, 2016 I only paint the backer board, and use acrylic craft paint which dries real fast, I myself dont really like to paint, but the project looks better with color. I do a lot of military plaques, and color does work. edward Dave Monk 1 Quote
Scrappile Posted June 5, 2016 Report Posted June 5, 2016 (edited) I have not painted any scroll work, yet, but I use to make cigar box guitars and ukuleles and painted a lot of them. I would experience the "wrinkling" of the paint once and a while. Even when applying a second coat of the same paint. I never figured it out, other than the not letting the first coat completely dry before applying the second. But not sure that is really the cause because it did not always happen. Edited June 5, 2016 by Scrappile Dave Monk 1 Quote
DWSUDEKUM Posted June 5, 2016 Report Posted June 5, 2016 Dave try water based acrylic paint. You can get sample containers mixed to your color specification OR you can go to the craft stores and pick up the pint acrylic paint its water based, cleans up easy, no offensive odor and it dries fast. and most important is it takes a finish quite well without warping or other issues. DW WayneMahler and Dave Monk 2 Quote
Bill WIlson Posted June 5, 2016 Report Posted June 5, 2016 If you don't like paint, but want to be able to get the variety of colors, maybe dye's could be an alternative. I've just recently been experimenting with fabric dyes, because they are readily available and cheap. So far I like what I've been seeing. Some woods take the dye better than others, but it leaves the wood grain show through, which I like. Also, I haven't had any problems with glue adhering to dyed wood. I have had problems with painted wood. danny, Dave Monk and WayneMahler 3 Quote
Denny Knappen Posted June 5, 2016 Report Posted June 5, 2016 I use Samen stains, even black on Baltic birch plywood backer boards. Quote
Lucky2 Posted June 5, 2016 Report Posted June 5, 2016 Dave, what are you using for a top coat, are you using lacquer or are you using a varathane type finish? It's the finish coat that is causing the wrinkles, and it's an easy problem to solve. What's causing the problem, is the lacquer based finishes. You won't have wrinkle problems, if you use water based paints for the base coats. If you use oil based paints, you risk the chance of wrinkles every time. What's happening, is that the lacquer is raising the base paint. It's reacting to the hardeners and chemicals in the paint. The two different types of chemicals used to make paint and lacquer, react to each other. You can get the wrinkle effect, if the paint is fresh or if it's been on there for years. It's how lacquer works with base coats, it tries to attach itself to to finish in the base coat of paint, rather than just lay on the top of the lower coating. Which is what a varathane type of finish does, it just lays on top of the previous coatingTo avoid getting the wrinkle effect, switch to using a varathane type finish. The chemicals in it, don't react to the chemicals in paint. I'm sure you can get a better understanding, if you did a search on the subject. I've explained it as I understand it, I hope you understand my explanation. Len Quote
orangeman Posted June 6, 2016 Report Posted June 6, 2016 Also, try safe food colors! I color ALL my colored puzzles with food coloring. Quote
fastfreddy Posted June 12, 2016 Report Posted June 12, 2016 Some paints are not compatiable with others. There is a big differance between dry and cured. Some paints you can touch and they feel dry but the paint has not cured. Most people think that if you can touch it and it doesn't stick to your finger its ok (dry). Everything dries from the outside in. The outside part might be dry but not the inside, its still drying. If you spray the clear coat on (to early) before its cured you have curled paint. That said you just need to give the 1st coat time to dry as someone suggested. Hope this helps. Quote
heppnerguy Posted June 15, 2016 Report Posted June 15, 2016 I don't like to paint wood either.Did only one project and used an Airbrush for it I just wanted to say, I really enjoy the ciao paint job you did on your plaque. It has added a lot to this piece Dick heppnerguy Quote
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