JimErn Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 How do those of you who stack cut with the Excalibur, manage to keep the cut fretwork from tilting down and hanging up in one of those many holes in the table? I would rather not have to push out the cut fretwork each time. Some patterns really need the cut fretwork to stay in place to support peninsulas. Anyone cover the ex table with a one hole and otherwise solid cover? If so what material did you use and how did you adhere it to the table? And how well is that material holding up after prolonged use? Jim amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Scroller Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 You could use an old credit card and double sided tape that would do the job and of course a hole in the middle. Roly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangerJay Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 (edited) If I am needing a zero clearance insert (always on small pieces only) I use a piece of 1/8 ply cut to the dimensions of the entire table and clamped at the edges - and then I do spend a bit of time figuring out the best way to approach very fragile sections. If the occasion presents itself where I feel the need for additional support on larger fretwork pieces during cutting then I approach the piece in logical sections - cut that section - then wrap additional tape around both the top and bottom of that particular section before moving on. Jay Edited January 26, 2017 by RangerJay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 I cut away the plastic film underneath, effectively defeating the dust control feature, but at least it allows the smaller pieces to fall through. Occasionally a piece will still catch in the holes, but it's been better since I removed the plastic under the table. Scrolling Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Scroller Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 Jim what you discribe is not unique to stack cutting but any projects that have small cut outs. If I have any areas that I need to cut out to remain for support I will use a small piece of scotch tape to hold it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawkeye10 Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 How do those of you who stack cut with the Excalibur, manage to keep the cut fretwork from tilting down and hanging up in one of those many holes in the table? I would rather not have to push out the cut fretwork each time. Some patterns really need the cut fretwork to stay in place to support peninsulas. Anyone cover the ex table with a one hole and otherwise solid cover? If so what material did you use and how did you adhere it to the table? And how well is that material holding up after prolonged use? Jim Jim it's a real pain I know. I have this happen when compound cutting and stack cutting. Some times small pieces don't go all the way through. I haven't done it yet but I am going to make another top out of 1/4" MDF. The reason I am going to use MDF is it has a very smooth finish. To make it even more smooth I am going to wax it with Johnson's floor paste wax. It really makes a difference. I have a piece of MDF that I use on my DeWalt thickness planer and waxing it helps a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimErn Posted January 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 Thanks to all for the responses That 1/4" MDF sounds good, but I would rather not clamp it to the table top, with my luck I would be cutting a circle or straight parallel lines and bump against it, or I would be distracted watching to see if I was getting close.. If I come up with something not mentioned or way to make it permanent (sort of) I'll post it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTCowpoke22 Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 Someone once posted about using old business cards. I started using them on my old Delta, and they were great. I just used packing tape to secure them. With my jet, like the Excalibur, all the little holes cover a pattern much bigger than a normal business card. Last night I cut an old birthday card in half and taped it down. Seems to be working so far. Phantom Scroller 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneMahler Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 I just make a simple zero clearance cover. I use playing cards and tape them to the surface of the table. New Guy, SCROLLSAW703 and Phantom Scroller 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodknots Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 How do those of you who stack cut with the Excalibur, manage to keep the cut fretwork from tilting down and hanging up in one of those many holes in the table? I would rather not have to push out the cut fretwork each time. Some patterns really need the cut fretwork to stay in place to support peninsulas. Anyone cover the ex table with a one hole and otherwise solid cover? If so what material did you use and how did you adhere it to the table? And how well is that material holding up after prolonged use? Jim I used formica like they use om counter tops it also eliminated the scatches on the table top. I just used contact cement and used the trim router with a pattern bit to trim of excess. I hope this helps Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 (edited) What about that sheet magnet stuff? cut it to the shape of the table and lay it out on the table.. the magnet should hold it into place i would think.. Just a idea.. maybe the stuff would be too expensive for a piece big enough? I don't know.. Keep in mind that anything up ad to the table is going to effect the blade teeth position.. may not be an issue unless you use reverse teeth blades.. Wanted to add that I think maybe sears has the stuff for tool box drawer liners to help tools stay put.. Edited January 26, 2017 by kmmcrafts NC Scroller and heppnerguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotshot Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 One of our overseas friends resolve the his issues with the little holes in the table by filling them with bondo, and removing the plastic shroud from under the table. Lucky2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimErn Posted January 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 One of our overseas friends resolve the his issues with the little holes in the table by filling them with bondo, and removing the plastic shroud from under the table. Funny I was just thinking of that same thing. My plastic dust collector was gone long ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted January 27, 2017 Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 How do those of you who stack cut with the Excalibur, manage to keep the cut fretwork from tilting down and hanging up in one of those many holes in the table? I would rather not have to push out the cut fretwork each time. Some patterns really need the cut fretwork to stay in place to support peninsulas. Anyone cover the ex table with a one hole and otherwise solid cover? If so what material did you use and how did you adhere it to the table? And how well is that material holding up after prolonged use? Jim All great ideas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimErn Posted January 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 (edited) Zero Clearance topI used Hawkeye's idea of 1/4" MDF. Removed the table top flipped it over and traced the outer pattern on the MDF.The 4 mounting bolts are 1/4 x 20 SAE flat head bolts, so I drilled them. Prior to taking off the table, I measured the blade location from the front of the table. With it on the MDF I made a mark for the blade hole and drilled it at 1/4 too.I flipped the board over, and then I used a countersink bit my Dad had, and cautiously drilled the countersink. I wanted the hole only deep as necessary so that the bolt would have more meat to tighten against. Turned out it was perfect when the countersink bit was almost level with the table top.I cut outer line on my starter saw. I like the symetry of the table as original, but I image you could get away with a 2" lip if you wanted to. Put the table and the zero clearance table in place, and low and behold the original bolts were too short. I had a feeling they might be...Trip to Home Depot and got a 4 pack of 1/4 x 20 nuts and bolts. Grabbed some lock washers from my stash in the shop, and it all came together.When the OL goes to the store I'll have her pick up the paste wax. Thanks to all for the responses Jim EDIT - darn it, the second pic is the finished top. I used the brass level to insure the bolt head was below the surface. Edited January 27, 2017 by JimErn Lucky2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munzieb Posted January 28, 2017 Report Share Posted January 28, 2017 I have run into the same problem. The holes of the deck can bid up on small cuts. Just wondering if filling them with solder and sanding them flush would be an option? If that works, having the deck powder coated for a totally smooth and slick surface?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimErn Posted January 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2017 Well I found a can of carnuba paste wax my dad had, and used it - wow I scrolled for 4 hours yesterday - all I can say is I will try my best to avoid using a table with vacuum holes in the table ever again - for me it was a wonderful enhancement, and cheap! Total cost around $9, mostly cause I had to buy a 2x4' piece of MDF, and 30 minutes of my time fabricating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barb.j.enders Posted January 29, 2017 Report Share Posted January 29, 2017 Lee Valley has some "tape" that is designed for zero clearance on a miter saw. Used some on my DeWalt with no issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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