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Posted

Newbie question here:

I'm looking at doing some portraits as gifts. In just about every video I watch on line it appears they use spiral blades.

I realize spiral blades seem to have some advantages for cutting portraits, but I was wondering what blades people here use (for portraits)?

Posted

Like Les, I have spirals but rarely use them, which I am sure is why I am not confident with them.

I use the pegas MG#3 almost all the time, dropping down to the pegas MG#1 if needed for the pattern

Posted (edited)

What blades I use really is dependent on what type and thickness of material I'm using to make the portrait..

I make "most" of mine from 1/8" BBply.. and typically stack cut 3-6 of them.. I use a Pegas or FD-UR #3 for a stack of 3 and in some cases for a stack of 5-6.. but usually do bump the size up to a 5 if the stack is more than 4.. 

I've cut portraits out of 1" hardwood in the past.. so this is why I ask for what material you're cutting.. I think most assume BBply either 1/8" or 1/4" ... Some stack cut and some don't ..

I do use spirals for portraits.. but not always.. really depends on the portrait and what I feel like using, LOL.. In the case of spirals.. I always use a 0/1 FD-NS.. Or in rare occasions a #1.. I do use Olsen and Pegas spirals too from time to time.. but rarely use anything over a #1   

Edited by kmmcrafts
Posted

One other reason I am not on the band wagon to get good with spirals, is the tear out, I dislike sanding, and spirals just leave more of it to do in my experience.  Wonder if anyone has considered a spiral with reverse teeth at the bottom.

Posted

The use of spirals for portraits depends on the pattern more than anything else or at least that is my opinion. By that I mean just looking at the pattern and the way it was designed will give you somewhat of an idea of weather to use spirals or the flat blades. Is the pattern designed with details using more or less straight lines or is the detail using sqiggly lines? Patterns with a lot of detail to cut is easier, for myself, to cut with a spiral blade. But as others have stated the blade, the wood , the thickness of the wood and the pattern and what you are most comfortable with using as a blade will be what you use.   

Erv

   

Posted
15 minutes ago, JimErn said:

One other reason I am not on the band wagon to get good with spirals, is the tear out, I dislike sanding, and spirals just leave more of it to do in my experience.  Wonder if anyone has considered a spiral with reverse teeth at the bottom.

Jim, at one time I tried using the FD spiral that had the reverse at the bottom but for myself there was no difference, still had the fussies  to sand or burn off!

Erv  

Posted
1 hour ago, redwine said:

Jim, at one time I tried using the FD spiral that had the reverse at the bottom but for myself there was no difference, still had the fussies  to sand or burn off!

Erv  

Good to know, thanks, might have saved me some money and frustration

Posted

I have been doing portraits for about 8 years now and the only advise I can give you is practise on scraps with spirals before the final cutting if you have never used them.I use both straight and spiral for a portrait.Straight for long runs as spirals wonder so its hard to get a straight line and I use spirals on corners and close cuts around eyes etc where tight cuts are needed.The whole portrait takes alot of patience so make sure your comfortable with either blade before you begin or you might have a breakout and lead you in discouragment on doing others.

Posted

I'm a spiral man. About all the scrolling I do is patterns. I agree there are problem with fuzzy but I can't imagine spinning that piece of wood that much with a straight blade on say a Mike Williams pattern. I'd get dizzy LOL. I use FD #2 and 3 blades and find with good Baltic birch plywood the amount of sanding isn't to bad. I find that blade speed has some affect on  how much you get.

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