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Posted

I have used titebond but squeeze out can be annoying. lately I have been using a Gorilla clear that I dab on the back squeeze out is not noticeable as much. Clamp the backerboard on each corner using small six inch adjustable clamps this elevates the project above the workbench making it easy to apply additional spring clamps around the edges. 

Posted

When I mad my fretwork welcome sign, I wanted a waterproof glue and I didn't want any squeeze  out. I used gorilla glue (100 % waterproof polyurethane) and applied it with a small foam paint roller. I put a small amount of glue in a disposable cooking pan and rolled a small amount evenly on the roller. This worked so well it's my go to application now. I had zero squeeze out from the glue,

I put the piece on a workbench, added a board on top and then used a 20 lb weight to clamp the pieces together.

The sign is above my front door now (testing the weather resistance ).

Posted

I use Weldbond for all my scroll projects.  Suppose to stick anything to anything.

It was recommended by Carole Rathman for doing bowls.  I have  found it works well for gluing backer to fretwork as if you get any squeeze out it dries clear.

Has fairly quick set up time too.  I use sparingly and spread evenly.

 

Posted

Not my idea. I have no ideas of my own so hopefully whoever posted this will identify himself so I can thank them. I use a 3"  mini paint roller covered with water pipe insulation tubing. Very cheep at the hardware store. I use a smooth 12"X12" granite flooring tile which I had used as a surface plate. Piece of glass works too. I just pour the glue (whatever you are using) on the plate and roll the paint roller through it. Then roll the glue onto the back of your cutting. The big advantage is all the thin and small pieces of fretwork receive a glue coating. Before using this I was not sure the small unglued pieces would eventually become broken for one reason or another and come off the backer. This method assures everything is glued well. The dried glue is easily removed from the plate.

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Posted
18 hours ago, Wichman said:

applied it with a small foam paint roller. I put a small amount of glue in a disposable cooking pan and rolled a small amount evenly on the roller. This worked so well it's my go to application now. I had zero squeeze out from the glue,

What a good idea !!  I'm off to buy some rollers. I've seen them with a handle and ½ doz rollers in my local store but never thought of using them for glue. Thanks for the tip.

Posted
1 hour ago, Foxfold said:

What a good idea !!  I'm off to buy some rollers. I've seen them with a handle and ½ doz rollers in my local store but never thought of using them for glue. Thanks for the tip.

Since I first started making backed patterns I have been using a 4" roller to spread Titebond  III on the back of the fretwork.  Works very well and I have little squeeze out since the glue is spread very uniformally and not too thick.  I clamp the panels between heavy  boards all around to apply even pressure while the glue sets.    

In between uses, I keep the roller in a cheap plastic food container with lid.  The container is about 4" x 6" by 1" high, the kind you get with some take-out food.  I use this container like a paint roller pan to put the glue on the roller.  I have been able to use the same roller for quite some time as the glue does not dry out in the sealed container. 

  

Posted (edited)

Wow all the fancy rollers for applying, I feel left out and robbed of the possibility of a new tool, 😂

It depends for me on what glue to use, if the backer is stained / painted then I use weldbond glue.. good stuff.. If I'm gluing plain unfinished wood together I use TiteBond translucent..

Application.. Well this is where I'm being robbed of tools.. I use a plastic trash bag and lay it out on the bench.. Pour a liberal amount of glue onto the bag and use a plastic body filler applicator to spread the glue out evenly over the area of the bag about the size of the project.. I dip the back side of the cutout into the glue and press it down to make sure the back gets covered evenly of glue.. then set it onto the backer and usually no squeeze out.. evenly spread on the work piece within just seconds.. Most things I make are stack cut and done in groups.. so I can glue up a stack of cuttings to the backers in about 5 minutes and then stack my weights on top of the whole stack of projects.. If doing a stack of projects as I do.. you may need to use that body filler applicator to spread the glue around after every couple of projects to be sure you're getting a even coat of glue on the projects..

Instead of a garbage sack.. you can use wax paper.. like used in the kitchen for backing etc.. I just happen to have gotten in trouble for using up the wax paper so I started using the garbage sacks.. A plus is.. I'm being earth friendly as I still use the garbage sack as it is intended for anyway.. Just be warned.. the dried up glue will not stick to the sack.. and it will be messy and looks like a snake is skinned when using it.. best for a garage garbage sack after using for the glue ups.. LOL... Oh.. also don't put the sack liner in the canister when the glue is wet still.. might have to throw out the whole trash can next time.. depending on the glue you use,🤣

Link below is the body filler applicators so you know what I'm referring to..

https://www.harborfreight.com/plastic-spreader-set-3-pc-69563.html

  

Edited by kmmcrafts
  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted

I use Elmers wood glue and I run a bead around the outside, then spread it with my finger. I then use my finger to get inside parts of the project. I then clamp it for at least an hour. 

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