FrankEV Posted October 10, 2020 Report Posted October 10, 2020 What glue or adheasive do you use to affix a fretwork panel to a backer panel? And, what is you application method? OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Foxfold Posted October 10, 2020 Report Posted October 10, 2020 I use pva, I have it in a squeezy bottle and spread it with my finger It works for me, no matter how intricate my piece. OCtoolguy, FrankEV, John B and 1 other 3 1 Quote
amazingkevin Posted October 10, 2020 Report Posted October 10, 2020 24 minutes ago, Foxfold said: I use pva, I have it in a squeezy bottle and spread it with my finger It works for me, no matter how intricate my piece. Brenda Brenda, you women have all the answers. And here i thought i'd have to order across the pond for some!!!! Walmart carry"s it!!! Thanks Brenda!!!! danny and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote
new2woodwrk Posted October 10, 2020 Report Posted October 10, 2020 For my wood backers I use titebond I on a few selected elements If I'm backing with something other than wood, I use e6000 This site has proven very valuable to figuring out how and what to use https://thistothat.com OCtoolguy, danny and FrankEV 1 2 Quote
barb.j.enders Posted October 11, 2020 Report Posted October 11, 2020 I recently tried the spray glue that I use for patterns. So far the piece has stuck!! No squeeze out, no mess!! FrankEV and OCtoolguy 2 Quote
Frank Pellow Posted October 11, 2020 Report Posted October 11, 2020 Gorilla spray glue seems to work for me. FrankEV, oldhudson and OCtoolguy 3 Quote
flarud Posted October 11, 2020 Report Posted October 11, 2020 Titebond 3 and a few dabs of CA here and there. To apply it,, most of the time the fretwork is narrow and I just squirt a little Titebond on a scrap piece of wood and use a small nail to apply the glue. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Norm Fengstad Posted October 11, 2020 Report Posted October 11, 2020 I have used titebond but squeeze out can be annoying. lately I have been using a Gorilla clear that I dab on the back squeeze out is not noticeable as much. Clamp the backerboard on each corner using small six inch adjustable clamps this elevates the project above the workbench making it easy to apply additional spring clamps around the edges. OCtoolguy and FrankEV 2 Quote
Wichman Posted October 11, 2020 Report Posted October 11, 2020 When I mad my fretwork welcome sign, I wanted a waterproof glue and I didn't want any squeeze out. I used gorilla glue (100 % waterproof polyurethane) and applied it with a small foam paint roller. I put a small amount of glue in a disposable cooking pan and rolled a small amount evenly on the roller. This worked so well it's my go to application now. I had zero squeeze out from the glue, I put the piece on a workbench, added a board on top and then used a 20 lb weight to clamp the pieces together. The sign is above my front door now (testing the weather resistance ). OCtoolguy, FrankEV and danny 1 2 Quote
don in brooklin on Posted October 11, 2020 Report Posted October 11, 2020 I use Weldbond for all my scroll projects. Suppose to stick anything to anything. It was recommended by Carole Rathman for doing bowls. I have found it works well for gluing backer to fretwork as if you get any squeeze out it dries clear. Has fairly quick set up time too. I use sparingly and spread evenly. Dave Monk, OCtoolguy, FrankEV and 1 other 2 2 Quote
Rockytime Posted October 11, 2020 Report Posted October 11, 2020 Not my idea. I have no ideas of my own so hopefully whoever posted this will identify himself so I can thank them. I use a 3" mini paint roller covered with water pipe insulation tubing. Very cheep at the hardware store. I use a smooth 12"X12" granite flooring tile which I had used as a surface plate. Piece of glass works too. I just pour the glue (whatever you are using) on the plate and roll the paint roller through it. Then roll the glue onto the back of your cutting. The big advantage is all the thin and small pieces of fretwork receive a glue coating. Before using this I was not sure the small unglued pieces would eventually become broken for one reason or another and come off the backer. This method assures everything is glued well. The dried glue is easily removed from the plate. Scrappile, danny, Hawk and 2 others 3 2 Quote
John B Posted October 12, 2020 Report Posted October 12, 2020 I use PVA (Normal wood glue). Either Parfix or Selley's brand. Like Brenda I use squeeze bottle and then my finger to spread it on fine pieces. Occasionally I'll use a cotton bud to remove any squeeze out on the face. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Foxfold Posted October 12, 2020 Report Posted October 12, 2020 18 hours ago, Wichman said: applied it with a small foam paint roller. I put a small amount of glue in a disposable cooking pan and rolled a small amount evenly on the roller. This worked so well it's my go to application now. I had zero squeeze out from the glue, What a good idea !! I'm off to buy some rollers. I've seen them with a handle and ½ doz rollers in my local store but never thought of using them for glue. Thanks for the tip. OCtoolguy and danny 2 Quote
FrankEV Posted October 12, 2020 Author Report Posted October 12, 2020 1 hour ago, Foxfold said: What a good idea !! I'm off to buy some rollers. I've seen them with a handle and ½ doz rollers in my local store but never thought of using them for glue. Thanks for the tip. Since I first started making backed patterns I have been using a 4" roller to spread Titebond III on the back of the fretwork. Works very well and I have little squeeze out since the glue is spread very uniformally and not too thick. I clamp the panels between heavy boards all around to apply even pressure while the glue sets. In between uses, I keep the roller in a cheap plastic food container with lid. The container is about 4" x 6" by 1" high, the kind you get with some take-out food. I use this container like a paint roller pan to put the glue on the roller. I have been able to use the same roller for quite some time as the glue does not dry out in the sealed container. danny and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote
tomsteve Posted October 12, 2020 Report Posted October 12, 2020 ive been using bob smith medium ca on all of my portrait work. a bead around the perimeter then on fragile parts then a spot here and there. weight it down for a minute- done.it dries clear so squeeze out isnt an issue. quick,easy,strong bond OCtoolguy and FrankEV 2 Quote
kmmcrafts Posted October 13, 2020 Report Posted October 13, 2020 (edited) Wow all the fancy rollers for applying, I feel left out and robbed of the possibility of a new tool, It depends for me on what glue to use, if the backer is stained / painted then I use weldbond glue.. good stuff.. If I'm gluing plain unfinished wood together I use TiteBond translucent.. Application.. Well this is where I'm being robbed of tools.. I use a plastic trash bag and lay it out on the bench.. Pour a liberal amount of glue onto the bag and use a plastic body filler applicator to spread the glue out evenly over the area of the bag about the size of the project.. I dip the back side of the cutout into the glue and press it down to make sure the back gets covered evenly of glue.. then set it onto the backer and usually no squeeze out.. evenly spread on the work piece within just seconds.. Most things I make are stack cut and done in groups.. so I can glue up a stack of cuttings to the backers in about 5 minutes and then stack my weights on top of the whole stack of projects.. If doing a stack of projects as I do.. you may need to use that body filler applicator to spread the glue around after every couple of projects to be sure you're getting a even coat of glue on the projects.. Instead of a garbage sack.. you can use wax paper.. like used in the kitchen for backing etc.. I just happen to have gotten in trouble for using up the wax paper so I started using the garbage sacks.. A plus is.. I'm being earth friendly as I still use the garbage sack as it is intended for anyway.. Just be warned.. the dried up glue will not stick to the sack.. and it will be messy and looks like a snake is skinned when using it.. best for a garage garbage sack after using for the glue ups.. LOL... Oh.. also don't put the sack liner in the canister when the glue is wet still.. might have to throw out the whole trash can next time.. depending on the glue you use, Link below is the body filler applicators so you know what I'm referring to.. https://www.harborfreight.com/plastic-spreader-set-3-pc-69563.html Edited October 13, 2020 by kmmcrafts FrankEV and OCtoolguy 2 Quote
Fred Buehler Posted October 21, 2020 Report Posted October 21, 2020 I like to use Weldbond. if it squeezes out between pieces it dry's clear. not noticeable. Can be bought at ACE hardware John B and FrankEV 1 1 Quote
KennyHopkins Posted November 17, 2020 Report Posted November 17, 2020 I dont use any adhesive to hold backer. In frame, I use 1/4" plexi glass, the cut. And the backer.. and I secure using frame master at rockler wood working. https://www.rockler.com/frame-master-point-driver At any time, I can pull out tacks to clean glass.. change backer.. or whatever. Then re-tack. I have found doing it this way also prevents a lot of bowing or warping. FrankEV 1 Quote
Fedido Posted November 17, 2020 Report Posted November 17, 2020 I use Elmers wood glue and I run a bead around the outside, then spread it with my finger. I then use my finger to get inside parts of the project. I then clamp it for at least an hour. Quote
trackman Posted November 29, 2020 Report Posted November 29, 2020 Will Weldbond show up after finish is put on like yellow glue? Quote
scrollerpete Posted November 29, 2020 Report Posted November 29, 2020 11 hours ago, trackman said: Will Weldbond show up after finish is put on like yellow glue? No it will not, when dry it is clear FrankEV 1 Quote
crupiea Posted December 19, 2020 Report Posted December 19, 2020 Spray glue. Very thin coat and a few minutes to get just barely tacky. If its too wet it will be tough to scrape off. Once you get the time right it will peel right off without issue. FrankEV 1 Quote
Sparkey Posted December 23, 2020 Report Posted December 23, 2020 I use 3M spray glue. Sometimes I will put a few staples in from the back. Paper backer of course. Quote
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