How do you hold your pieces of wood from sliding when you "Stack" cut... and other questions

[Millwab]

8 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

Between these 2 layers spray front and back of white copy paper with adhesive of your choice ( I like 3M 77spray adhesive) let set for a few seconds and then stick to bottom of walnut and then line up Mahagony and press that on top.

John, I don’t quite understand the purpose of the paper in between the layers. Wouldn’t the blue tape be enough to stick together and be able to separate the layers after cutting?

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

2 hours ago, Millwab said:

John, I don’t quite understand the purpose of the paper in between the layers. Wouldn’t the blue tape be enough to stick together and be able to separate the layers after cutting?

Not a good idea because you are now pulling on the blue tape from all the small pieces. The white paper comes off very easily from the blue tape because remember there is a coating on the top of the tape. If you spray the blue tape with adhesive then that is a tougher stick and harder to peel. At least I have found it to be. Hey you can try your way. I just do not want to get glue all over the sides of the pieces because that is where I have to steer the project. 3M77 is very very sticky stuff and a mess when you get it on your hands. I use it alot to stick my mailing labels to boxes.  Usually what winds up happening is the white paper peels from one of the boards first and then you can peel both white paper and blue tape off the second board together. Sometimes you get lucky and it peels right off both. I have also used the repositionable spray adhesive when those cans are on sale. Use to get them many times in Michaels when they had coupons. I do not see that any more since the pandemic. 

Edited February 10, 2024 by JTTHECLOCKMAN

[barb.j.enders]

11 hours ago, Millwab said:

John, I don’t quite understand the purpose of the paper in between the layers. Wouldn’t the blue tape be enough to stick together and be able to separate the layers after cutting?

I have seen others do the tape to tape layer when stack cutting.  

[BadBob]

I don't stack cut very often. However, I have tried just about every method I have run across. For me, none of them works, as well as small dots of wood glue in the waste area. I clamp the pieces for 20-30 minutes and then cut the pattern. The layers never move, and there is no gap between the pieces. The cost is nearly zero.
This is not stack cutting, but it is something I do fairly often. I cut the pieces from thicker solid wood and then resaw the cut pieces on my bandsaw.

Here are some ornaments resawn from a piece of 3/4-inch stock.

[Joe W.]

4 hours ago, BadBob said:

I cut the pieces from thicker solid wood and then resaw the cut pieces on my bandsaw.

Now THAT is a good idea . . . I will have to try.  

 

[BadBob]

1 minute ago, Joe W. said:

Now THAT is a good idea . . . I will have to try.  

 

It saves a lot of wood when you need only a small part. Slow and easy does it.

[MarieC]

13 hours ago, BadBob said:

I don't stack cut very often. However, I have tried just about every method I have run across. For me, none of them works, as well as small dots of wood glue in the waste area. I clamp the pieces for 20-30 minutes and then cut the pattern. The layers never move, and there is no gap between the pieces. The cost is nearly zero.
This is not stack cutting, but it is something I do fairly often. I cut the pieces from thicker solid wood and then resaw the cut pieces on my bandsaw.

Here are some ornaments resawn from a piece of 3/4-inch stock.

 

Bob, I actually did that by accident fairly recently too.... but it was a bit scary in that I thought it might explode into a gazillion pieces...but thankfully it didn't.

[BadBob]

6 hours ago, MarieC said:

Bob, I actually did that by accident fairly recently too.... but it was a bit scary in that I thought it might explode into a gazillion pieces...but thankfully it didn't.

I long push sticks to keep my fingers away from the blade and pay close attention to the shape of the piece. I resaw small pieces with my band saw on a regular basis. To date, I have never broken one.

[Rolf]

I have been stack cutting pretty much since when I started started scrolling, making delicate Ornaments. I've used every one of the methods mentioned. They either damaged pieces or took forever to separate. I now use a PIN nailer in the waste areas on small pieces and on larger projects a couple in the waste areas.  To make sure nothing sticks out on the bottom or top I use a small hammer on an anvil. I cut all of the interior cuts and the perimeter is last. No Muss no fuss.

You can see the pins in the corners, sorry for the crappy image. This square is 2x2 "

Edited February 12, 2024 by Rolf

[BadBob]

2 hours ago, Rolf said:

I've used every one of the methods mentioned. They either damaged pieces or took forever to separate.

I don't understand why you have had problems separating the pieces.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Everyone has a method and what works for them is what they should use. I gave my reasons for what method I use and will always continue doing it that way. I have never broken a piece and I cut some intricate pieces myself. I only shared a method because of the question. I suggest people try different methods and choose what works best for them. There is no right or wrong way as with anything we do in scrollsawing. Good luck. 

[BadBob]

What works well for one project may not work well or at all for others.

[Rolf]

5 hours ago, BadBob said:

I don't understand why you have had problems separating the pieces.

I was / cutting 1/16 Baltic birch, stacks of 6. very delicate. I don't like solvents. etc. This ornament is 4" tall.. I now put a layer of removable shelf liner on the top layer, the pattern on that, (everything is pre sanded) put 4 pins in the stack. Cut peel the pattern off and I am done. 

[MarieC]

@Rolf Very nice!...so you don't get any drifting of your blade?  What size of blade do you use!

Edited February 12, 2024 by MarieC
Edit

[MarieC]

Oops

Edited February 12, 2024 by MarieC
Edit

[BadBob]

1 hour ago, Rolf said:

I was / cutting 1/16 Baltic birch, stacks of 6. very delicate. I don't like solvents. etc. This ornament is 4" tall.. I now put a layer of removable shelf liner on the top layer, the pattern on that, (everything is pre sanded) put 4 pins in the stack. Cut peel the pattern off and I am done. 

Got it.

[Norm Fengstad]

I used most methods already explained. I have stacked up to an inch or so but often quality is compromised so usually cut 3 or four layers of 1/8 bb 

[Wichman]

I forgot to mention this; Drill bit considerations, the blade you decide to use will affect the pilot hole, and the smaller the drill bit the shorter the drill bit (longer bits are available, but you need to be aware),

The #71 drill bits (#2/0 blade)I bought from Mikes Workshop are 1 1/4" long, so a practical material of 1" is the limit with these drill bits

The #65 drill bits from Mikes are also 1 1/4" long, but the #65 drill bit I ordered from Home Depot are 1 1/2" long and are cobalt alloy (the cobalt alloy are stiffer and offer much higher resistance to bending inside the material being drilled, they also can be heated to 1500 degrees before losing their temper, you could burn a hole through the wood and not affect the temper of the drill bit   ).

When drilling holes in stacked pieces, and in any thicker material, stay to the center of the opening in fretwork, so that any flexing of the drill bit doesn't affect the pattern.

[MarieC]

5 hours ago, Wichman said:

I forgot to mention this; Drill bit considerations, the blade you decide to use will affect the pilot hole, and the smaller the drill bit the shorter the drill bit (longer bits are available, but you need to be aware),

The #71 drill bits (#2/0 blade)I bought from Mikes Workshop are 1 1/4" long, so a practical material of 1" is the limit with these drill bits

The #65 drill bits from Mikes are also 1 1/4" long, but the #65 drill bit I ordered from Home Depot are 1 1/2" long and are cobalt alloy (the cobalt alloy are stiffer and offer much higher resistance to bending inside the material being drilled, they also can be heated to 1500 degrees before losing their temper, you could burn a hole through the wood and not affect the temper of the drill bit   ).

When drilling holes in stacked pieces, and in any thicker material, stay to the center of the opening in fretwork, so that any flexing of the drill bit doesn't affect the pattern.

Wow, thanks for those tips.  Especially the one from Home Depot.  I won't be doing any fretwork on this project but I have had problems in the past with length of drill bits so this is very helpful.  Thanks again!  Marie 

[danny]

Probably Late, but My method is to me the best.  I prefer Aileens Tacky Glue. 

I just put a small dab in places where no cuts are.  Most patterns will be ok to put

the dab in all corners.   Clamp or put heavy weight on top.  Only takes minutes. 

And I stopped using the wide blue painters tape.  To Tacky.  Was pulling the Wood

up some places.    Anyway     Danny  :+}

[BadBob]

8 minutes ago, danny said:

Probably Late, but My method is to me the best.  I prefer Aileens Tacky Glue. 

I just put a small dab in places where no cuts are.  Most patterns will be ok to put

the dab in all corners.

Works great.

 

 

8 minutes ago, danny said:

And I stopped using the wide blue painters tape.  To Tacky.  Was pulling the Wood

up some places. 

Same here.