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Lucky2

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Everything posted by Lucky2

  1. Nicely done Dan, but, I think it would look a bit better if it had a black backer of some sort on the back of it. Personally, when I see something like this piece displayed without a backer, I think that it's not finished. Len
  2. Nice cutting Ralph, I agree with what most other replies have suggested you do to finish it. Just use some sort of a clear coat poly/varnish finish, I don't think that something like this piece needs any color added to it. But, that's just my opinion. Len
  3. Gorgeous! Len
  4. Lucky2

    Gollum

    Gator, it sure looks as if there would be more than a few hold your breathe moments, involved in this cutting. It's definitely one to be proud of, did you happen to stack cut it? Len
  5. Two outstanding pieces, they both look fantastic, thanks for sharing them with us. Len
  6. Vykus, waterbased varnish/varathane doesn't yellow, a lot of people use it just for that reason. If I were you, I'd try some on a small piece of holly just to see if it will work for you. If it works fine, you could use it to finish the whole project. Len
  7. John, if the blade is bending from front to back or vise a versa, it's more likely the tiny tip insert in the blade clamp screw. When the blade clamp is being tightened up against the blade, the tip of the screw is supposed to turn so that this doesn't happen. I don't think that the tip in your clamp screw is rotating against the blade, I think that it is twisting the blade instead. If this is what's happening when you tighten up the screw, then it can and most likely will pull the blade out of the top blade holder. Try twisting the little tip on the screw, if it rotates without much effort, then I doubt that this is your problem. Now, if your blade is bending from side to side, it's much easier to fix, it's just a matter of adjusting the set-screw on the blade clamp. It's the screw that is on the left side of the clamp, opposite from where the clamp screw is installed. Either one of these two issues can cause the problems that you are having, hopefully one of these two fixes will correct the problem. Len
  8. Lucky2

    Elvis

    Paul, what are the dimensions of this fantastic cutting? Seeing your work being displayed outside by the fence, makes a person wonder as there is nothing there to compare it to for size. Len
  9. Jim, you could always make your own sander strips. All you need is cloth backed sandpaper, rip it into the width you want and sand away. Of course you can only use one side to sand with, but, sometimes it's better to have only one sided sanders. By using this type of sander strips, you're not as likely to sand the opposite side by accident. Len
  10. Jim, I don't own a copy of this book, but, I do own a few different patterns from it. They were offered in past issues of SWWC, and there was a few offered in another book issued by them. I don't recall what the title of that book was, but, I'll take a look in the next day or so to see if I can find it. Len
  11. Jim, if you can get the ISBN# for this book, your library will be able to get it for you from another library if it's out there. I do it all the time, when I want to check the contents of a book out. It's a free service, and you just borrow the book like you usually would. Len
  12. Nicely done Gordie, I imagine that this one would be a good seller. Len
  13. Oldhudson, I own an EX21, and I think that it would be just to heavy and large to be moving it around all of the time. Personally, I think that you should look into the EX16", they are a lot smaller than the EX21 and lighter also. The reason for suggesting the EX16", is that you stated that you wanted a good saw, and, that this will probably be your last scroll saw purchase. With the quality that the EX's have built into them, you should get years of use out of one. Like I stated earlier, I own an EX21 and am as pleased as puch with it, but, I've also used a EX16" and it was every bit as nice to use as mine is. The only difference I could find, was the difference in size from a 21" to a 16". If you can live with a saw that only cuts to this size, then I think that it would be a very safe buy. Len
  14. It should be just a matter of removing two special screws, and then install a new connector link. After that is done, just install two new screws, or, use the ones that came off of it. I highly recommend getting new screws for it, the old ones probably have a ridge in them from all of the use the saw has seen. While your at it, you should also check the pivot screws to see what kind of shape they are in. If they show much wear, now is the time to change them while the saw is apart. Plus they should be removed to grease them. The grease I use is called Red & Tacky#2, it is red, and it is very tacky which you want it to be. It comes in a tube the same as other grease does, and to apply it, I use a large sringe with a dull needle. I hope this helps. Oh yeah, all of the parts that you need shouldn't be very expensive, at least they weren't when I bought them a few years ago. Len
  15. Kelly, he's a cute little fellow, thanks for sharing him with us. Len
  16. Roy, have you ever heard the saying, that practice makes perfect? Well, that's kinda the way it is with scrolling. The more practice you get the better you will get, it all takes time. You do need a descent saw though, and a good blade definitely helps. What model is your Delta saw, could you post a picture of it? The first saw I ever owned was a Delta, it had a few vibration issues but I worked around them. One of the best things you can do, is to mount the saw on a steady solid base. As for blades, maybe you should try a less aggressive type until you get you cuts under control. Another question I would like to have you answer is, is your saw a variable speed saw, or, is it the two speed model? Hopefully it's the variable speed model, they are much easier to control. If you have the variable speed model, try cutting at a slower speed. As you get better at controlling your cuts, then get used to the higher speeds. Len
  17. It's a cute little saw Paul, hopefully it'll do all you need it to. Len
  18. DW has it right, I would charge 20-25 dollars for it also. It's not a hard cut, and it doesn't require all that much material. But, it's up to the seller to know what he can get for something in the area in which they sell. Maybe more, maybe less. Len
  19. Dan, you did a very nice job of designing and cutting your version out, and they look fantastic. I have to admit though, that as much as I like yours, I like the original one just a bit better. In the original, the Spartan fighter looks to be defending himself with whatever. Is there any way, that your fellow could hold a piece of the knife set to look the same? Len
  20. Years ago I was told not to paint any part of the birdhouses we built, the reason for not painting them was different I thought. I was told that by painting the inside of the house it could kill the birds, because of the fumes off of the paint. We weren't to paint the outside of the houses, because it made them to noticable for the preditor birds to see them while fling by. We never questioned this, as the man that told us this was one of the wisest men we ever knew, he was our grandfather. He got me started in serious woodworking when I was just nine years old, we built three cedar stripped cargo canoes that year. That was back in the sixties, the canoes are still around and are used ever year when the salmon run is on. I tried to purchase one just for sentimental reasons, but, the fellow who now owns them wants over five grand for one. Hey, I like my hertitage, but, five grand just for sentimental reasons, I think not! Besides what do I need one for, definitely not to help remember my grandad, I have lots of fond memories of hanging around with him. I get a big grin on my face when I think of him. Some of the things me and that old deaf man did were amazing, I truly loved every minute of being with him. He was the only grandfather I ever had, my grandfather on my moms side died many years before I was born. Len
  21. I've never used a blade lubricant on my scrollsaw blades, but, I have used it on my bandsaw blades. I just never found the need for it on the scrollsaw blades, not even the big thick blades. Len
  22. Well, I guess I'm as lucky as Edward and MrsN, I own three drill presses and the chucks on all of them close down small enough for these tiny drill bits. I usually purchase my bits in a small drill bit box, it has twenty or so different size bits, and I use all of them over time. Some bits are to small even for the finest blade, but, they work great for the smallest of detail holes that might be needed to finish off a masterpiece. Len
  23. lolol, Dick, I got your PM, but, I'm not to sure your going to like my reply. It is long as there was a lot of questions, plus I had to add a few details of how to. I hope you understand it as I explained what I do. If you have any more questions, please ask, I don't mind answering them. Good luck, I hope this all works out for you, it's the way I finish most portraits and other fretwork pieces I do. Len
  24. Two great looking cuttings Jim, they're both top shelf material. Len
  25. Nicely done. Len
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