JTTHECLOCKMAN

There is no such thing on the market that is odorless. Some products are less offensive but still carry an odor and that includes your wax concoction. Now all depends on what you call odorless and what time frame you are talking about. The color outcome is important also. If you want a warm tone then blo and then let dry for a day and top coat with a lacquer. Now you can get waterbased lacquers in any sheen. They have a less offensive smell. Polys will dry rather quickly and the smell is sealed. I am not a fan of shellac on scrolled projects. That is meant for large woodworking projects in my opinion. Good luck in your quest though.

Strips are walnut and the veneer top layer is white oak. Other layers within the plywood can be anything.

Is it possible to jostle, I guess maybe but highly doubt it. Some times I just do not get companies that try to pull this stuff. This is not a large company and any negative feedback will hurt them. They have to know this. So I ask where is quality control??? Did they not run and test the saw before it was shipped and if they knew of a problem would you not fix it before you continue to ship. Maybe they just hope the buyer will put up with the saw and order parts and fix on their own. You are doing the right thing. I know any saw or any product for that matter can have flaws and then you have to deal with the Lemon Law but it comes down to the company and how well they handle the situation that determines their feedback. Good luck.

Check craigs list in your area. Dewalt, RBI, Excaliber, Hegner, Delta, Jet, are some of the top names. Find something and check back with us.

Own one of the very first originals and it is one of the most used tools in my shop. I too did not know how much work I saved myself since I bought it. I use a shop vac with the standard 2" hose and works great. Have to empty the barrel a few times if doing lots of sanding but that is no big deal. Have replaced the drive belt twice so far and bypassed the switch that turns on and off because it burnt out. But other than that it is a work horse. I love mine.

I would never make a good teacher. I just drill and start cutting. Can not explain it because it comes so natural after you have been doing for so many years. I have no hard and fast rules I follow. Sometimes I cut on the fly or by the seat of my pants. No rhyme or reason to go from one point to the next and do the opposite on the next cut. But I am so confident in my cutting ability that no cut scares me. I have the ability to cut straight and true and follow a pattern line with exactness. This may sound like tooting of the horn because it is. But will say the most important thing I learned to get to this point is to relax and let the blade do the cutting. Do not tense up in tight situations or push so hard trying to cut faster. Does not work. Relax and let the mind tell you where to go and what to do. Let go of the work every once in awhile and let the blade straighten out or catch up to the cutting. This is the key to scrolling. Learn to put pressure in the right spot when spinning the piece, learn to listen to the sounds of the blade cutting and learn when it is time to change blades. Learn to use both hands in working a piece. Plan you cuts so that you do not back yourself into a corner. Do not get me wrong about suggestions like this for cutting directions which are great for beginners but also learn to become your own scroller and forget what others do. there are no right or wrong ways to scroll. find your own methods and tricks and speed at which is comfortable. Just my opinion and point of view.

And this is the world we became. What happen to the handshake as a sign of good faith??? It is too bad.

What would be the easiest way to transfer my photos from PhotoBucket to that site

I guess there is no more linking photos from my photo bucket account to this or any other site unless you pay some rediculous fee. From what was free for so long has now become another money grabber. What a shame. Any of the threads where i had done this in the past are now now gone.

As a general rule I will spin the wood counterclockwise but on complete circles or ovals I go the opposite. For me it makes a cleaner cut.

You did not say what saw it is you are talking about so that may help with the answer. But as a general rule all clamps must be able to move back and forth or pivot on any saw. If the bottom clamp is not moving with the push of the wood or the up and down motion of the saw then it will bend as you have shown. Your cuts will also be either undercut or maybe overcut on the top of the material. Make sure the clamps pivot as they are designed to do.

As above it is your comfort zone that will tell you what a good speed is. But with that said I will say a few things that will also be factors in determining speed. The thickness of the material, the density of the material, the type of material (plastics, metals, wood) the blade being used, and so forth. Just because you use a higher speed only means the saw is moving faster, but it is you doing the pushing and guiding that will determine how fast you are cutting. My point is you can use a med speed on the saw and cut resonably fast or use a higher speed on the saw but have to slow your feed rate down in order to control your cuts better. So this is why people are telling only you can answer your question. Good luck and happy sawing.

I would use a very thin blade and just cut the door out. You do not want it too tight anyway and any imperfections are matched with the cut. Want real thin blades use a small jewelers blade.(00 or even 000 )

Well Tony alot of info is left out here also. You do not mention who the vendors are and what exactly you are buying. To keep inventory updated can be tricky if you are relying on others and they are a reseller. I blame you also for not having the foresight not to stock up when the item is available if it is a big seller for you. As I said inventory is money tied up and some vendors can not operate such as a Penn State Industries who has unlimited cash flow. Vent all you want but will not change things and if you are disatisfied just stop using that vendor. God knows there are way too many pen supply vendors on the market these days anyway. Good luck.

Tony, calm down. Not worth getting the blood pressure up. I too turn pens. With pens or any hobby never and I mean never put yourself in a must have to do now situation. It is a hobby and if it is even a business you are in control. It is you selling the finished product. You must explain to customers that your time is valuable and you are in demand. You will get the product to them as soon as humanly possible. If they have a problem with that then they are not a customer I would not want to deal with. With pens you need to try to keep your best sellers in stock and all the side products that go into making them. Yes i know it can be expensive to have much inventory but think of the vendors you are buying from. They are in the same boat. Trying to manage your inventory better. There are various vendors today so you may have to shop around more. May have to go back to the customer and offer an alternative if possible. Remember relax and you are in control. Happy turning.

My memory is not what it use to be so there is alot of gaps missing in this. But I do recall when those type puzzles started coming out and the inventor tried to corner the market on the idea and I am guessing he was unable to patten it. There are now many makers of those patterns out there. But maybe there is someone who could shed some light on this topic and its origin of those type puzzles. Probably someone who does these will have more background. Could be an interesting story to tell. Anyone????

Rolf I believe most magazines are designed to entice the newbies. I remember when I first started woodworking and scrolling I wanted every wood working magazine on the shelf and I purchased them. You are so geeked up and excited with your new found hobby. As I got more skilled I found them to not be challenging and to be of basic nature and full of ads. That is just the way it is and will not change. When you do become more skilled you look for specific patterns or projects to make and it is just much cheaper and simpler to seek them out individually. With todays internet the paper magazine is becoming a dinosaur as well as newspapers. You find this in all hobbies so it is not new. After a while you look at your hobby through different colored glasses and things look different. To find maybe one or two projects in a year's subscription is quite expensive and it just smarter to buy when needed. I believe scrollsaw magazines as well as other woodworking magazines are better suited for the tease or eye candy side of things. I believe people would like to see more crafters finished projects. I get a pen magazine and all it is a magazine with top brand pens photos. But what it does for me is stimulates my brain for ideas to try to replicate or expand. I believe that is what would be beneficial to a scrollers magazine and I have sent that idea in many years ago to both those scrollers magazines and to an extent they did increase the section on showing finished projects but to me not enough. I know space is limited but this is my opinion.

I agree 100% with Hawkeye on that statement. I have just about discontinued all my subscriptions to all wood magazines. I find the scrollsaw magazines to be too beginner oriented and they stopped being any challenging projects years ago. better to buy patterns from pattern makers of the ones that I need. Other wood magazines just promote tools that support them. I am now stuck with 1000's of magazines I hate to throw away. Oh the money spent on all those subscriptions I could buy a few scrollsaws and expensive ones at that.

I would not use walnut. Not stable enough. I would cut out of Baltic Birch or Finnnish or even Apple plywood as long as it has no voids and then stain it brown.

I too use Deft lacquer. I stain with Watco stains and let dry at least 24 hours usually 48. Top coat with about 4 to 6 coats of lacquer. If the project is large or I am doing many items with the same process I will break out the compressor and HVLP gun and spray a water base lacquer. No sanding needed between coats and a beautiful finish every time.

Wide open question. Many variables. Is there a finish on the table already?? If so what is it?? Needs to be sanded if using any poly. Lacquers and poly do not mix. Poly is a strong smell unless using waterbased poly. Usually will dry to touch in 6 hours but cure in 48 to 96 hours in 75 degree nonhumid conditions. The longer the better. I like to let a project stand for a week before buffing out. Problem of dust settling on top for long periods of open time. Poly will stand up to abuse longer than lacquer but lacquer will dry faster and eliminate above problems. Takes more coats of lacquer than poly. It too has bad smells unless using waterbased lacquers. Clearer finish than poly unless using waterbased poly. If table is stained needs to be completely dry and clean before top coating. Some polys require sanding between coats. Need to read instructions and follow. As far as being dry in time is a matter of when you start and the conditions. Both poly and lacquer will dry but cure at different rates. Depends alot on amount of coats. Finishing is not a project you want to rush. All info I can give you without more details and it mostly is general info you can find by visiting the web site of the product being used. Good luck.

Could be a cold solder joint on the circuit board. Or a wire that is not seated all the way or a splice that is loose. That would be where I look first.

This is what I use also on all my projects except for shelves. They are strong. For shelves I will use keyhole system of hanging.

Doug at first you said poster than you call me by name. I said what I said because of your response. I don't get you. As for help I offer alot of help here. Can't help someone who gave up on the saw after a couple hours. As another poster pointed out for every problem you point out on the Hawk you can double it on the Dewalt. I too have a serier#1 Dewalt and do you want me to mention all those problems they had??? There were many. Don't just point me out because others here have told you the same thing as I did. Go back and read the responses. Again I will highlight your own words so do not tell me I won't help. When you got to this post sounded like you did not want help and made up your mind. Glad you found an operator error and maybe you will give the saw a chance to show you what a good saw it really is. It will take more than a couple hours of use to get use to. after only using it for a couple of hours i dont really know that i want to get used to it! other than the usa made motor and electronics and being heavy built i dont think it is all it is cracked up to be. the on/off switch is not in a real handy spot,the blade holders are crap, and the more i use it the less i want to use it. this is supposed to be a enjoyable hobby, not a headache with the saw every time you have to make an inside cut! i also got the manual with it when i bought the saw. i have done what the manual says and i still dont like the clamp system. i am glad i bought this used because i would be upset if i had paid anywhere near the $1200 price tag they want for it new.

The clamps on my Hawks are similar except the bottoms are square and not rounded. So easy to change. Do it without even looking. As others keep a few preloaded if I am doing production work but even that is not necessary. The holder for the clamp is right on the arm and is so easy to change a blade. Pop a clamp in the bottom and swing top of blade into top clamp and swing lever over and the blade is tensioned the same every single time. No guess work as with the Dewalt because the top and bottom part of the blade hits a fixed stop. Could not be more easy in my opinion. It may take some sawing to get the hang of it but to knock it down the way the OP did is not fair. A couple hours is no test run. He is so much better selling the saw and getting a couple Dewalt saws. How many times do you read about Dewalt saws and the problems they have just on this site. Go back and read them all. It is a $500 saw and that is all. A Hawk is a $12000 saw and it is proven. He asked for help and then he snap at when he got it. That was my point about the bashing. Like it or not it is my opinion.