JTTHECLOCKMAN

I agree with Dan that it is important to plane equal amounts off each side and to rotate when planing. I do not agree with the standing against a wall thin woods. They will warp faster that way. Stickering does help but some woods are just going to warp no matter what and you need to plan for this in your project. How a tree is harvested tells alot about the internal stress in the wood and what conditions it grew in. Good luck.

Like all post there is about 100 discussions going on at the same time so To answer the rag problem I always spread them outside to dry and then throw away or you can put them in a bucket of water. Why buy an expensive flammable locker. Do not get that one. Unless you are storing flamable liquids in then go for it. OP question, Any way you want to apply is fine. Find something you are comfortable with. I do as Kevin does and always dip mine in Danish oil. I do not like BLO alone. Danish oil gives a nice luster to the project. Would get locked up here in NJ if burned things like that so that is out here. Paper shredders, buy a cross cut paper shredder and I dare anyone to try putting that together. If they have that much time on their hands, go for it. Just as easy to get info from computers or snatch out of the air today.

Put outside to dry or throw in bucket of water.

Just a note about that spectraply wood yes it does come in sheets and you can custom order as well. They run sales many times during the year. It is nice stuff to work with. I had shown these baskets before but they do not fit in this category because a scroll saw was not used. I cut these up using a tablesaw all the way. But this sheet is called bummblebee. The difference between the two baskets is the order which the layers were glued. One is just the opposite the other.

Boy There is some truely beautiful work here. First I am seeing this post. Congrats to all. They are all winners.

Eugene you have shown those crosses a few times and I too have made many of those over the years. They do not sell well any more here. But I have made them from walnut as you did, mahogany, and oak .

Either name is good but I would have made the name plates from the same wood as the frame is to give it contrast. You introduced a small portion of a different colored wood and to me it does not go. Just an opinion.

I never mention to anyone who or where I got the pattern unless asked. I thank those here that do patterns for me and if I use them but we all do that.

You do know that circuit breaker is a push in to reset right??

Kevin I have a couple different versions in my head. I had seen a similar pattern that I may combine both patterns and add some things. Just not sure yet. As I said I need to work out a few details yet with my method. Right now I am waiting on some supplies for my puzzle project and will be working on that.

Well I will tell you this and will let anyone who wants to try that idea have at it but it won't be me. But what I will tell you the Clock that Kevin has just shown I will step that design up a few notches at some time. Just have to figure a few things out yet. I put that project on the back burner last year but will revisit it. I also will be making pool cue pens with watch parts embedded into the pen body and adding them to my revolving list of projects. Not sure how many remember this pen box I made a few years ago for a contest I entered on a pen turning site and it happen to take first place.

The controller is the circuit board and located in the switch assembly I would assume because it controls the speed and that knob on top is the speed knob. https://www.repairtoolparts.com/delta-parts/delta-40-695-type-1-parts/delta-dpec002186-circuit-board-assy But then again it could be behind that circuit breaker/fuse area. Looks like it is part #74 right under the speed switch on top of the switch housing. It is a combo pot and circuit board. May have to blow up the diagram. https://assets.ctfassets.net/hnrwk8wffcvh/3FBlEf7XQQykqaOgAcUUEi/4c82e0a781dacfcc167300b8d51aaad8/40-694_20Scroll_20Saw_20Parts_20List_20Rev_204.pdf

Many more Berry Basket projects and again very nice work.

Bringing out all the projects are you?? All look great. I am partial to all the Berry Basket Patterns. You should make an album here to preserve them here.

Sorry did not follow this.

Oh the old Berry Basket bench. I remember doing those back in the 90's. Loved Rick and Karen's patterns. Nice job on all the projects. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks again. I made the bases to resemble the Rack sort of. They are rosewood and oak. Being I use lots of them I buy the balls from China. You can get cheap sets on Ebay but many times they have been used. These are not the real good professional ones used in games but they work well. I sell all numbers and let the customer choose. Have to say I sold probably as many 8 ball as 10 ball because the clock face. People love that blue clock face. Have sold many of the cue ball too and people like a black outer ring and white face with that one. The same one that is on the green 6 ball.

Thanks they are big sellers for me. I have a few other ideas I have been wanting to do with them but never got around to it.

The thing that is odd about the red Hawk is the table shape. I can not remember seeing that shape on a Hawk. I did not realize this bit of history. Never seen any other color. Probably did that because there was a call for those saws there. They were made by RBI with the different motor and that maybe the reason why they chose a different color to designate the difference. Anyone buys one need to be aware of that. That blue one is a knock off and who knows how many were even made. Not sure about patents back then and if that was even legal. Today you see so many saws that look like they come off the same line but with a different color. I find this interesting. Would love to see a few of these. . In the early 1980s RBI released a series of scroll saws including the Falcon, Eagle, Condor, and Hawk https://books.google.com/books?id=aOQDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA165&lpg=PA165&dq=condor+scroll+saw&source=bl&ots=o5Fo31R_SI&sig=ACfU3U29Vgy8QQ25U1dLC0IVV2kGvBCQvw&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjdt6W_2vXiAhWoT98KHUJjB14Q6AEwFXoECAkQAQ#v=onepage&q=condor scroll saw&f=false The more I look into this it seems RBI made scrollsaws for Woodmaster too and they were blue. https://offerup.com/item/detail/30152089/

Now I do not remember who it was and am sure someone will but there was a pattern designer that made patterns focused around wooden plates and she even sold the plates. OK name that designer. I remember when they were all the rage. Amazing the fads we go through. Very nice work and great use of material. I know Berry Basket use to do these too. But here are some patterns for wooden plates. https://woodenteddybear.com/collections/decorative-plates

Never seen it and I do not believe that the ones with the tennis ball are Hawks. I have watched Hawk saws since they came out. Now the ones with the barrel clamps is a yes. The others maybe a knock off. They were always red as far as I remember. The blue ones were made by GLENDO CORP. in Kansas. Here is what it says in the ad. These were around $800 new. I've never used this one. manufactured by GLENDO CORP. in Emporia, Ks. My dad was the shop mgr. and asked if I wanted to buy the last one. They were manufactured for Heartland by GLENDO, a custom fab. shop.

I just ordered from this company and they are very reasonable. I bought a few other things that I pay more for in a craft store. Thanks for that link. I saved it to my bookmark file.

I use Peachtree bits along with MLCS bits and to me yes a complete set is a must if woodworking in a shop. I have a few complete sets and have sets up to 4" When using bigger bits you need a drill press and you need to slow it down. I do buy individual ones in sizes I use most and I have carbide ones in the 1-3/8" size because I drill billiard balls for clock inserts and that dulls a bit quickly. I have learned to sharpen them too which helps prolong the life. I would not be without them. Holesaws are fine but I usually do not want a hole to go all the way through the back side if possible. Same with scrolling them.

Sold. good call.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/801039/Delta-40-690.html?page=11 Start here with the fuse.It is not a circuit breaker in the sense you are thinking but a fuse is a circuit breaker because when it fails it breaks the circuit. The next step is the switch. The brushes are not going to be the reason so do not bother there. The very first thing is make sure there is power to the outlet you are plugged into.