JTTHECLOCKMAN

Sorry did not follow this.

Oh the old Berry Basket bench. I remember doing those back in the 90's. Loved Rick and Karen's patterns. Nice job on all the projects. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks again. I made the bases to resemble the Rack sort of. They are rosewood and oak. Being I use lots of them I buy the balls from China. You can get cheap sets on Ebay but many times they have been used. These are not the real good professional ones used in games but they work well. I sell all numbers and let the customer choose. Have to say I sold probably as many 8 ball as 10 ball because the clock face. People love that blue clock face. Have sold many of the cue ball too and people like a black outer ring and white face with that one. The same one that is on the green 6 ball.

Thanks they are big sellers for me. I have a few other ideas I have been wanting to do with them but never got around to it.

The thing that is odd about the red Hawk is the table shape. I can not remember seeing that shape on a Hawk. I did not realize this bit of history. Never seen any other color. Probably did that because there was a call for those saws there. They were made by RBI with the different motor and that maybe the reason why they chose a different color to designate the difference. Anyone buys one need to be aware of that. That blue one is a knock off and who knows how many were even made. Not sure about patents back then and if that was even legal. Today you see so many saws that look like they come off the same line but with a different color. I find this interesting. Would love to see a few of these. . In the early 1980s RBI released a series of scroll saws including the Falcon, Eagle, Condor, and Hawk https://books.google.com/books?id=aOQDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA165&lpg=PA165&dq=condor+scroll+saw&source=bl&ots=o5Fo31R_SI&sig=ACfU3U29Vgy8QQ25U1dLC0IVV2kGvBCQvw&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjdt6W_2vXiAhWoT98KHUJjB14Q6AEwFXoECAkQAQ#v=onepage&q=condor scroll saw&f=false The more I look into this it seems RBI made scrollsaws for Woodmaster too and they were blue. https://offerup.com/item/detail/30152089/

Now I do not remember who it was and am sure someone will but there was a pattern designer that made patterns focused around wooden plates and she even sold the plates. OK name that designer. I remember when they were all the rage. Amazing the fads we go through. Very nice work and great use of material. I know Berry Basket use to do these too. But here are some patterns for wooden plates. https://woodenteddybear.com/collections/decorative-plates

Never seen it and I do not believe that the ones with the tennis ball are Hawks. I have watched Hawk saws since they came out. Now the ones with the barrel clamps is a yes. The others maybe a knock off. They were always red as far as I remember. The blue ones were made by GLENDO CORP. in Kansas. Here is what it says in the ad. These were around $800 new. I've never used this one. manufactured by GLENDO CORP. in Emporia, Ks. My dad was the shop mgr. and asked if I wanted to buy the last one. They were manufactured for Heartland by GLENDO, a custom fab. shop.

I just ordered from this company and they are very reasonable. I bought a few other things that I pay more for in a craft store. Thanks for that link. I saved it to my bookmark file.

I use Peachtree bits along with MLCS bits and to me yes a complete set is a must if woodworking in a shop. I have a few complete sets and have sets up to 4" When using bigger bits you need a drill press and you need to slow it down. I do buy individual ones in sizes I use most and I have carbide ones in the 1-3/8" size because I drill billiard balls for clock inserts and that dulls a bit quickly. I have learned to sharpen them too which helps prolong the life. I would not be without them. Holesaws are fine but I usually do not want a hole to go all the way through the back side if possible. Same with scrolling them.

Sold. good call.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/801039/Delta-40-690.html?page=11 Start here with the fuse.It is not a circuit breaker in the sense you are thinking but a fuse is a circuit breaker because when it fails it breaks the circuit. The next step is the switch. The brushes are not going to be the reason so do not bother there. The very first thing is make sure there is power to the outlet you are plugged into.

I always use forstner bits. Easy and clean and easy to adjust the right depth.

I use this stuff for things I need clear adhesive. It says 5 min set but I have been able to work it 10 mins. I apply using my sponge method as I mentioned in a previous post. Works for me. https://www.lowes.com/pd/JB-Weld-ClearWeld-Clear-Epoxy-Adhesive/1000820870?store_code=1862&k_clickID=bi_272560535_1310618047997262_81913665859998_pla-4585513246605193:aud-806056765_c_&msclkid=50a19fe8ab631e54c6f4c2ed1a2b2c24

I can only speak on the Navy projects because I did them. They are from a Steve Good pattern. Are they legal?? I have no idea because again did Steve have rights to do the pattern, have no idea. How many times do you you need to pay for rights. So what I go by is if no one says anything then so be it and until someone puts a piece of paper in my hand saying I can not do it then I will continue to make things. I have been selling military projects for over 35 years and have not been called on it and I sold in malls across NJ as well as large craft shows.

I have seen this concept in hand held tools and they are used alot for roughing wood to distress it, sand rough wood to clean it, and also sand high profile moldings and such more easily. Have not seen it in that size but here is an example of them. https://www.supermaxtools.com/products/metal/superbrush-24-36-49-single-brush-sanders/ Here is a handheld model that I have seen. I do not have one because have no need. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-7-8-Amp-4-3-4-in-x-4-in-Corded-Wheel-Sander-with-100-Grit-Nylon-Brush-Wheel-9741/203162057

I can tell you for sure military products are copyrighted. As I said in jest but it is basically true, everything sold on those sites is copyrighted in one way or other and they could easily shut down the entire site if pursued by these so called henchmen. And kevin hate to say this but Craft shows are not exempt either. Seen it, been there . The bigger the show the better chance of corporations having spotters out. Sports teams especially college and pro are a huge problem. I agree wholeheartedly with Paul on the military thing. We the people are the military. Disney, Harley are always at shows. In the pen turning world we make what is called watch blank pens. What we do is take old watches and cast the parts in clear resin to make a unique pen. Where people get in trouble and I fight this all the time and just hate this premise of it has the trademark on it. We take old Disney watches or old Rolex watches and tear them apart and cast these watch blanks. You bought the watch for what it was and when it broke you turned it into something else instead of being wasteful and throwing it away. It no longer functions as a watch. Those people never made an original pen from the parts as described but they still come after people because it has their trademark on it. Like I said copyright laws are so grey and what I described has been fought in court and people have won their case but fighting big corporations gets pricey and you have to ask yourself is it worth it. To muddy the waters even more. A pattern maker makes a pattern and use a Military branch symbol or name and has the right to do so and sells his pattern, does the buyer have the right to make and sell that finished product?? No one seems to be able to answer that with a definite. These conversations have been kicked around on sites for years and taking nothing away from what Travis said is not all black and white. He is trying to protect himself and the site and understood. But get 2 lawyers in a room and you have 50 different responses. It is probably more of these selling sites are coming on line and you see more rules being put in place as you describe. So to simply shut down everything we do will never happen. Do what you do until you get told otherwise and if so get it in writing. Selling on line is and always has been a problem. Depends on the size of the fish is what will determine weather these henchmen go after you. Another point, in your link you posted look at "fair use" explanation and #4 in particular. How do you interpret that?? That is what I mean about grey area. How do we impact their sales?? In no way shape or form does what we do have an impact on what these companies do or profits they make and yet here they are trying to knock off the little guy. A war that can not be solved anytime soon as long as there are lawyers in this world. You always ask yourself though what if the shoe was on the other foot?? Good luck all.

When I made these last year I painted the backboard flat black and flat blue. The maple overlay was glued with clear epoxy. Then entire thing was sprayed with satin deft lacquer. Do need to make a couple more of the black ones. They were the better seller. That backboard piece was 3/8" thick. BB

Easy and fast and nice used in the same sentence is not in my vocabulary and never will be. I understand you are into quick sales so if you used BB for the face than why not for the back and paint it. Use spray cans. Can not get get any quicker than that. A black background works great. Save the walnut for special projects. The hole for clock inserts is not that large. It is the size of a clock motor depending what type you get. I told you this when you bought those toys that a nice drill press is worth more than any CNC machine. You can always route the backs out for the insert or scroll it.

There more than likely is no charge left on that cap because it bled through the motor windings but to play it safe just cut one wire at a time. If you can trace back to source than just jump out with a insulated wire.

They say you are never too old to learn new tricks. As I mentioned to Kevin this will all make sense when I tie 2 hobbies together which is pen turning and scrolling. This will be my summer project along with making those tierd shelves for display this year for the shows.

I do not want gloss so will look into something with satin. As I said experimenting is in the cards. Speaking of cards that is one of the projects to do playing card puzzles. This will all tie in eventually with my pen turning and some boxes for these pens. I always said I like to combine both my hobbies.

What blade did you use and did you get any lifting of the photo as you cut it or did you top it with tape before cutting?? Thanks.

That is the person. Thanks. That is also good info in there but I can see I will need to practice using some of these methods and choose one that works for me. May just top coat with satin lacquer. What I want to do is have a photo on both top and bottom so it is like getting 2 puzzles in one. I will be using pre planned patterns from Steve Good. he has a whole book. A little out of my comfort zone but I am game to try something new. Thanks.

That number is a manufactoring part number indicating it is a run capacitor. The numbers that concern you most are the microfarads and in this case 7.5 and the voltage 370volts AC If they match what you have then it is good to go.

Well I want to add a puzzle or two to my inventory this year but I have some questions that I hope all you puzzle people can answer for me. First I can not remember the man's name who use to do the stamp puzzles and he used to do Christmas Card puzzles and I know that is my bad. ( I think it was Carter) But I did not remember if he ever sealed his puzzles that were made from paper such as stamps and cards and calendars. So if anyone does this type puzzle making do you seal the puzzle in any way to protect the paper side and if so with what?? I will be using paper as the top and bottom layers, what adhesive would you recommend to adhere this?/ I am thinking 3M Super77. I was thinking of using 1/4" Baltic Birch and using FD superior puzzle blades. Does this make sense?? Do you think I should use an 1/8" piece of BB with the pattern glued on it and taped to the 1/4" or would just clear tape on top of photo and adhering the pattern to it work as well?? After the puzzle is cut does it need to be sealed in any way with all those bare wood edges. If sealed would this stop any expanding from humidity or moisture or is this not a problem?? Lastly I have seen Iggy and others seal their puzzles in clear film to keep from losing the pieces and to keep it together upon sale. Is this a good idea and what is used to achieve this?? Is it easy to open without cutting into the puzzle?? Any other tidbits of info would be greatly appreciated. This is an area I never really got into but would like to explore somewhat. Thanks in advance for the help.