JTTHECLOCKMAN

Wow to do that kind of work on a dremel is pretty amazing. I guess you do not need a high $$$ saw to do work like that. Impressive to say the least. keep up the great work.

I did that clock many years ago and I can see why yours was well received. Nice work and thanks for showing and welcome to the site.

You my friend have every right to be proud of that work. You are a seasoned vet at this. What saw have you done most of the work on?? Do you still have these pieces?? How long ago did you do the dome clock?? I remember when that first appeared and it was all the rage and everyone was doing them. Then they found out quickly you need some room for those. Job well done and thanks for showing.

I agree with Kevin that is a worthwhile saw to look at and also a great price. Looks like it was well kept if they bought a cover for it. I get a little weary about the voltage conversion with the transformer. Whenever you do this there is a risk of the voltage not quite matching the motors ratings. Not sure what RBI does but many companies will set a tool up for the place of use and that is a motor to match the users needs. In the USA we take this for granted all the time. An older thread from here that may interest you.http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/27754-rbi-vs-hegner-and-are-they-worth-the-upgrade/

Had to be from a Patriot fan. I guess it is OK.

OK Don we elect you to do some more patterns. That is great. Thank you. and Thank you for future ones.

Very nice. Care to share the pattern if this is yours??

No problem Les. I just did not get the drift of the discussion I guess and we went into top feeding on the RBI and it is not possible at least not without alot of modifications. If i am doing a large project I have to stand anyway to cut it out because I can not spin the piece with my body in the way. So it is easy to bend over and see the holes anyway. I always use a larger bit if I can get away with it. Never a standard size for me. Alot has to be the area being cut. If i have a large area why struggle with a tiny hole. Anyway good luck. I learned something from this thread anyway. I have a Boss.

I just got my order of napkins in so after Feb I should have some time to play around with these. I too got the so called cocktail napkins that are 5" square. Will see how these work out. if they come out like yours I will be happy. Thanks for posting.

Does that saw allow for both top and bottom feed??? OK yes give us a detailed report on the new saw. Not that I am ever buying another saw but for my own interest would be nice to hear an experienced scroller talk about it. I bet Hawk would love to hear the report too from you. Again back to Rocky you still can not top feed on the saws we have no matter how high the arm goes up. Another inch of height is going to make that much of a difference just does not register with me unless he is talking something totally different. Hope he weighs in here because I think we are both guessing what he is talking about. and his intentions or desires.

I have the first picture saw. Have the bolt and rubber sleeve. I understand the principle behind top and bottom feeding But my saw and anyone else who has that saw it is not a top feeding saw. Can not be done with accuracy and thus they came out with a new saw and I have no idea what they call their saws now. As far as bottom feeding large projects, how often do you do that? A blade will flex so much that you can easily thread in any hole. I have been a bottom feeder all my scrollsawing life and have scrolled all size projects including ones bigger than my saw would allow but you adapt. So I am having a hard time following Rockys question. If he is going to top feed with that saw he will not be able to do it. You have to have a device to hold the arm down to play games with the blade holder underneath. Again I am not following this whole thread. Back to you Kevin, you are saying on the saws that had the round holders they did not have that (boss) or stop??? I have cut on those saws before I bought mine which is an ultra but I have no idea what the newer saws are called. Have to look it up. Aren't you buying a new saw or did buy one??

Ok I had to go take a look and have to say I had no idea that that was there and knew nothing about it. On mine I have a bolt that is drilled through the frame and has a rubber washer on it to prevent the arm going higher. learned something today. and they call that a boss??? I suppose if you take that out the arm can rise as far as the spring lets it. I suppose you can redrill the hole and move the bolt to adjust with height. My saw rises to 5" to bottom of clamp and table top closer to the second photo. Now armed with this knowledge what is the question and why is this an issue?? How does this affect top feeding and bottom feeding?? I am going to assume you want the arm higher yet to top feed. If so take the bolt out or redrill. But that would be such a pain to fumble under there trying to catch that bottom clamp. The newer saws that bottom clamp is fixed in a more stable position to thread the blade through.

The video did not work so what you are saying the old saw as you call it is pre?????? I assume I have an old saw because I have that much room. Not sure what that orange block is in the last photo so I am guessing that is a newer ultra saw. Those saws are designed to cut both top and bottom feeding??? I am not following this line of questioning here. I need to go back and reread.

I think it serves well. Here is a photo.

How do you know a company does not make a mistake?? They may have never made a mistake on your order but others they may have. The size of a company plays a roll too. When handling more orders than the next guy can produce more mistakes. What impress me is not the lack of mistakes but how they are handled if it does happen and the speed of which it was handled. That is what a stand-up company is all about.

Can someone shoot a photo of this so called stop. I have had my saws for quite some time and am not aware of this or its purpose. I must have mis read this thread and do not comprehend this. I like the way my arm goes up and out of the way. I did at one time have an instance that Kevin did with the bulb breaking. But I now have fluorescents that have a plastic cover over the lamps so that is not happening any more.

Projects, wow. I have 5 for the IAP pen turning contests that need to be done by the 18th. My brother just added 3 new projects he wants done plus I owe him a pen and box that I have been working on for awhile. Have a house full of projects and spring is around the corner so yard work is nearing. Not enough time in the day but being retired does help.

I did that one myself this past year and sold one at my shows. I used red oak and walnut.

Have no answer for you because I am a bottom feeder .

That basically was my idea but thought instead of cutting dashes to use the colored wood he is using on the base and thin to a veneer and use as a skirt. I have done that many times to accent the clock and tie it into the base.

Well Kevin I will share my knowledge from the pen turning world because Epoxy resins have become popular there and I have used them with good success. First off there are many types of epoxy resins out there from casting resins to bar top resins and everything in between. The casting resin is the one you want. It is durable when cured and as I said used in the pen making hobby so it has to be. What makes this stuff a good fit is it dries super clear, does not require a pressure pot to get rid of bubbles, polishes to a high shine, and as I said durable but also sticks to everything just about. That is why it gets used for pens. I shown this pen, my scrollsaw blade pen, here before but I made this last year for a contest and it was cast in epoxy resin. The 2 leaders in the market are Liquid Diamonds which this is and Royal Palm. Both are very good and not sure on price but bet they are comparable. There are many new players and I have no knowledge of how good they are. If you are just coating things you could get away with bar top resins but you want one that is super clear. Most have a yellow tint. No to the buying gallons unless you are going to be doing a ton of these. Shelf life is about one year if stored in cool but not below freezing temps and not high heat. It is a 2 to 1 ratio mix that is crucial. We use a scale to measure the parts. Those are cheap. This stuff is water thin and thus gets in all the nooks and crannies but needs a mold to hold in place. Silicon molds are great because when sprayed with a mold release agent the resin does not stick to it. I use Stoner mold release. A little goes a long way. This stuff does not generate alot of heat as it cures because it cures very slowly. Usually 24 hours. This gives those tiny bubbles a chance to rise to the top and burst. A small hair dryer can help this too when passed over it. You do not go crazy when stirring but need to stir thoroughly getting all corners of the cup or container. That 2 to 1 ratio is critical. It will generate bubbles but will dissipate. It can be tinted and things added to it. Without seeing the item I can not suggest what or how to cast. It can be sanded planed cut but then needs to be polished. In the pen turning world we polish with Micro mesh pads and use water as the carrier. You could put on a buffer and use white diamond and then top with an automotive wax. Good luck.

I like them. I am definitely adding them to my to do list this year

Always love to see a good desk clock. They came out very well. Like the detail on the base.

That is what I would have done drilled them out. If the holse are too big then make a new top and double sided tape it and drill to right size.

I typically use 1-3/8, 2" or 2-3/4" but I do have others that I like the style and works well on certain patterns. I love theme clocks and on that one a horse clock insert would go great