JTTHECLOCKMAN

Again I will bring this up. With double sided tape you are leaving a gap between layers which can cause chip out on all pieces. No matter how thin the tape is it still a gap. Everyone is different use different methods but would like to point out some factors.

Those type jigs have alot of errors built into them. So much depends on many things right down to the runners for the miter slots.

My opinion. I do not think double sided tape is a good answer to stack cutting. What I always did was lay blue painters tape on top an bottom and then spray a sheet of copy paper both side with 3M 77 adhesive. That was the way I use to do it. Your milage may vary.

The thin CA will soak into wood quickly like a sponge. It will adhere to the wood fibers and when they are covered nothing will penetrate it. Thus Danish oil will not. You can paint over it after some sanding. If you want to have some open time, I suggest Med CA. Then you can give a quick shot of accelerator to start the drying process faster. In the pen turning world we use CA all the time as a finish top coat. A few coats of thin to seal the wood and then a few coats of Med and then we sand and MicroMesh till we get a beautiful glos finish. Many will add a coat of auto wax and bring out the shine even more. It is a very tough finish and stands up to the oils in the hands and thus the reason we use a a finish. This pen I did is a segmented pen with Gabon Ebony and Holly. It is a rollerball pen. Basically a desk pen because of the size.

It is all about accurate set up. First everything must be same dimensions. When you cut the board down to 4 pieces and cut to 1-1/2" wide these must be accurate to each other. You should stand them all next to each other to see if they are truely same dimensions. Then you need to lay them on a flat surface to see they are the same thickness. If that all matches, then your router setup needs to be secure and you route all pieces from the same side. Making sure you keep pieces flat as they pass over router bit. Hold down blocks are good for this when using a router table. After all that then it is time to cut miters and this is where precision is key. You do not show your jig. You do not show what tool you used to cut miters. Never ever ever ever cut miters before doing all mill work first. Something is off and it multiplied 4 times to get that big of a gap. Take both sides and place them back edge to back edge and place against a straight board so that the top points hit board. Make sure they are 90 degrees to the board and if equal on both top and bottom and then again with the 2 sides, then your angle is off. Need to adjust. Now does the measurements you have need to be that. If you can cut small amount from all 4 corners when you correct the angle then do that and you can save the pieces. If the pieces are off in any one of the steps will throw frame out of wack. That gap is actually larger than you show because the pieces are not lined up. This same practice applys when doing molding work around windows and doors. If I may make a suggestion and ditch the strap clamps or any other claps. Use blue painters tape. We make boxes this way and it is a true method of gluing because it does not squeeze all glue out and puts enough pressure on the joints. https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?&q=glue+miters+with+blue+painters+tape&qpvt=glue+miters+with+blue+painters+tape&mid=69988717F634E728105B69988717F634E728105B&&FORM=VRDGAR

It is acceptable because that is what oil finishes do. Lesson learned as they say. If you want a product that off gasses quicker or is less odor then use shellac. Even lacquers and Poly will take some time to stop smelling. BLO will smell as much as Danish oil because it does not have the hardeners in it. As mentioned, exposing to air circulating around the project helps. Think when you paint rooms in the house and that is waterbase paint. The smell lingers. Same when buying furniture it too off gasses. Buy a new car and that new car smell is all the plastics off gassing. It is a product of finishing. Solid finishes that adhere to the top of the wood will off gas faster because it seals the bottom side of the finish. Oils will linger longer because they really do not fill those voids. Nature of the product.

I answered this in your other thread with what I use FastCap tape. Excellent tape.

Believe me it is. It is for special projects but man it works well. I use woodworkers double sided tape for many things like jigs for cutting things on tablesaw and also for turning projects on the lathe. But that stuff is thicker and is easier to peel off. The speed tape is not tape you want to come off. I should also mention, the other day I just bought their zero clearance tape. I needed for my miter saw to make up for the years of cutting into the throat plate. I needed more accurate cuts so instead of buy a new plate or even making one, I heard about their tape and looks like the problem solver for me. It is very thin but the top is a slick plastic. It would be good for doing cuts on a scrollsaw that you need a zero clearance too. many people use various methods such as playing cards and tapes over the slots and things like that but this tape would do great on that too. Just a side note. https://www.fastcap.com/product/zero-clearance-tape

If you are looking for great doublesided tape that is clear then look at the line called FastCap. Best stuff around. Not cheap but you get what you pay for. You can get in many different sizes. It is very thin and clear. I use it alot in the pen turning world. https://www.fastcap.com/product/speedtape https://titebond.com/product/glues/e8d40b45-0ab3-49f7-8a9c-b53970f736af

Just a thought and observation over the years when seeing these type projects, you can make the exact same project without the tabs and just glue end grain to flat grain. If you are worried about strength you can do alot less tabs. It is basic box making when you break it down.

CA will break the bank no matter what glue you buy. Not cheap. In the pen turning world CA glue is a good glue for a finish on pens. Not all Ca glue is flexible so that probably not a problem but can be because wood moves. I always have used Satelite City CA. (Hot Stuff) The big glue on the market is GluBoost They have many varieties depending on open times needed. Thin Ca which you buy in those squeeze tubes is just that type and is water thin. The mid range glue gives more open time and is thicker and is called gap filling CA. This can be hit with accelerator. Thin does not need it. It soaks into wood too quickly. Then there is another thicker level but to me too much for what you want to do. If I were you what I would do is use wood glue on all the fingers except the top and bottom one and use a med CA on those. Now you have time to put together and line up and when set just hit those 2 spots with accelerator and it will be fixed and the wood glue can do its thing designed for what its purpose. They do this alot in woodworking when making many items. They sell flexible thin needle stems to replace the caps for tight areas. here is my links. This is what I use. You can get all this on Amazon and many different varieties. People like to use Gorilla CA glue for wood projects. Just a safety note or two. CA fumes are flammable. They are strong odor. They do make odorless CA but again step up in price. They sell different size bottles for a reason. CA does not store well after opened on a shelf. If unused can be stored in Freezer and needs to be taken out well ahead of time of use to room temps before using. Do not apply heat. CA glue can be removed with acetone only. people use nail polish remover because that has acetone in it too. Do not splash on eyes, hands or any skin parts. Use accelerator sparingly. It hardens in a hurry and can smoke some so beware. DO NOT apply to cloth and leave it. It can start a fire. This is any brand. CA is a product that gets hot when curing. The link I gave for Satellite Glue has alot of info as far as do's and don'ts. This can apply to just about all CA glues. https://www.ebay.com/itm/376130378359?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338590836&toolid=10044&loc_physical_ms=96777&customid=8e94463bb07a1aa73a302ebe33d02499&gclid=8e94463bb07a1aa73a302ebe33d02499 https://www.caglue.com/

I am doing basically the same procedures as this except the double sided tape I use is turners tape. That stuff is strong and no residue left. But any clean up I too use acetone. I always did the spraying paper both sides when stack cutting. But when I do a simple scroll pattern I put blue tape under the pattern.

All the years I scrolled well over 30 years, the mask I used was the 3M N95 masks. Changed them often but lungs are clear and boy have I had alot of chest XRAYS over the years. I wear them any time I am in the shop making dust. Now when I turn I wear something similar to what you have with a face shield.

It should have no effect on the saw. That level with the table is just a guide. There is nothing written in stone it has to be that. All saws have some sort of mechanism to tension blades. The RBI has a wedge. The Hegner has a screw in the back like this. The Dewalt relied on an open clamp system where you can slide the blade up or down in the clamp till it sits right. All saw blades are not the same length. You will find out quickly if you break blades to loosen the tension. It is a touch and feel thing. The thinner blades may need less tension than a larger thicker blade. Over time you will figure it out. We all do. Good luck.

Glad it worked for you.

Did you try to turn the blade backwards and cut that way? May work. Or but an edge on it to work like a knife.

It is always good to post reminders and warnings like that. Sometimes we get complacent and skip steps but they can be harmful.

Look at air fresheners for cars and maybe get some ideas from them. You can do the velcro route too. Put a piece on visor and one on the back of the item.

Can do something with magnets. They sell very tiny drop-in magnets as well as magnetic strips where you can cut to size. Maybe a combination would work. Hang with a string. One thing I see a very weak point with that hinge detail. Wood does not bend like that. Open too far and I see breakage. That hinge design is meant for bending wood to shape that is not continuously opened and closed in my opinion. Design thoughts--- make the back solid and if have to a little thicker with a finger hole like you have on both top and bottom and use the magnet system as I said. Or make the back a pivot system in that it lays on top and pivots on a pin or dowel and again use a magnet to keep lined up. I mean there are many ways and designs that can be had depending how much work you want to put into them. another would be to make basically in 3 piece and have the back slide in and out of a slot.

Actually I was just reading there now is 5 different types. here is an article explaining them. One thing that is notable is that the inner material is basically encased in an outer shell which ads the protection and fade resistance. So it is not like a solid product. But it is also made up of scraps of plastic and wood. Also there are other products out there that mimic Trex but called by different names. I am not familiar with them. https://customdeckcreations.com/types-of-trex-decking/

Trex is a different product than polywood. Trex has wood fibers that are basically scraps and sawdust mixed in with a different plastic than that used in polywood. Trex is bad to breathe that dust. I have cut Trex with a saw blade and had sparks come off it. Besides there are 3 types of Trex also.

You are correct Bill. Amish have the market cornered as well as making of sheds. That was something they were known for before all this furniture stuff. They cornered the market on pressure treated furniture as well as sheds for a long time too.

Who invented Polywood. It may have been invented by someone other than the Amish from doing a few searches. But here is a link to some info. In it is a cool video of one plant that makes polywood furniture. It is very interesting. https://www.forbes.com/sites/jimvinoski/2022/03/30/how-polywood-turns-millions-of-pounds-of-plastic-waste-into-beautiful-outdoor-furniture/ My brother has his entire backyard furniture made of this stuff and he got all his from the Amish in Pennsy. He has been dealing with a company who makes them up there so he got info from them but they may not be the inventors of the process. The look is amazing and as I said very heavy but solid. Taking simple waste and make things like that is cool. As far as scrolling, if it is true polywood I doubt it is a good material to use because it probably will melt back together being a plastic. But being a high density plastic who knows. Give it a try and report your findings.

You have to be careful of the terminology. If you are talking true polywood. This is a plastic and done by the Amish. Their invention and probably the only place to get it. Now there is a product called Dymondwood but hard to find any more. The factory where that was made burned down and no one picked up the product that I know of. It is thin layers of real wood encased in a resin and put under high pressure to cure. Then there is spectraply which is wood layers and encased in adhesive under high pressure as well. Then there is a product called colorply which also is layers of wood oriented in various directions to show unique patterns. It too is encased in a wood adhesive and then stabilized in a resin. All look the same but are very different. Examples of spectraply. Easy to get in blocks or sheets. (baskets) Dymondwood (watches green and black bands) Any of these types are tough on scrollsaw blades because of both the glues used and the resins used.

I would say bass wood is right there with sugar pine when it comes to hardness. When scrolling soft woods like that you really have to go slow because there is really no resistance from the wood and it could cut too fast. Especially 1/16" thick. Good luck.