JTTHECLOCKMAN

Thanks for the photo and by the way very nice cuttings. Not knowing exactly how these are assembled and what part you are talking about I can make some assumptions. Correct me if I am wrong. From what I gather it is the walnut inserts that fell out. If this be the case I see that if they are not cut to the exact diameter of the next ring there are gaps where it gets glued. If they are glued only to the sides of that ring then the glue surface is small and is compromised because of gaps. Edge gluing is always weaker than face gluing and I can see where heat from sunlight can cause these weak joints to fail. Also two dissimilar woods with a smooth surface from the cutting action of the blade can compromise the glue from penetrating. Now if you are talking about the entire center coming lose of the background substrate then it can be a painted thing and wood glue and that is always a problem. Just some of my thoughts. Epoxy would help with the gap problem and allow more glue surface. Probably if I were doing these and ran into this problem I would try to work out some sort of alternate pattern design. I would add a dado the the ring that holds the walnut pieces so that they are glued to a flat surface and not just the edges, Harder to explain than it would be to do.

http://www.google.com/search?q=happy+propose+day+my+love&sa=X&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&ved=0ahUKEwi7l7-q0a_cAhXmguAKHddeBkoQ7AkIMg&biw=1120&bih=641

This is a very valid point too. Sometimes when clamping pieces together we get too aggressive and that possibility can happen.

Those type glues are or can be affected by heat. But have to ask what was the project and was the actual glue lines exposed?? Just heating the wood is not causing it. It had to be in a hot temp area like a confined corner where no cool air circulates. You do not hear this often and I have to say the first I ever heard it. You can use hide glue, or construction adhesives such as Liquid Nails or PL 2000 Epoxy is also heat sensitive as well as contact cement. Now they sell high heat epoxies that can withstand extreme heat used in industries. That is a tough one.

Kevin the only scrollsaw related group I follow there is called Scroll saw and Woodworking I do understand what you are saying. I also do not like when some makes a post to show something it gets posted many times. Not sure why that happens but it happens alot. Annoying. Maybe that is what you are talking about. I just never paid attention to the group it comes from. On the pen turning sites everyone and their brothers is selling pen blanks they make or cut up. Too much for me. I do not stay long there.

Facebook is too hard to follow. Not like a forum like this. Alot more personal here if you ask me. Maybe good for selling supplies but not projects for sure. I go to a few pen turning ones and one minute a post is there and next you have to look for it. Not my cup of tea.

Many factors can cause that and grain direction is a big one and if the grain is a hard grain it will steer the blade.

Kevin instead of trying to copy and paste comments and give my answers I will try to explain a few things. Danish oil is mineral spirits, blo, poly and some driers mixed in. The key word in there is polyurethane. That is what makes it different from oil stains and every manufacturer has their own formulas. The Danish oil you are talking about has added stains to color it to the mixture but it still has poly in it. This is like a one step does all finish. stain and top coat all in one. With BLO it does not have poly so it has no film protection as well as most stains such as minwax line. This is why people say it needs to be top coated because it is a dull dried look. Yes it seals the wood but it is not protected from moistures such as water, alcohol and other things. If that cabinet was just stained, yes it is sealed but not protected from moisture which it will see. Even humidity is a moisture to reckon with. I can list a ton of manufacturers but just read the can as to the ingredients and it will tell you what is meant to be used as. I love Danish oil because it is a one step process and sometimes I will top coat. If I ever top coat I use lacquers. I have said many times here lacquer and poly do not play well together and they do not. But in the case of Danish oil if you only use one coat to seal the wood then there is not enough poly to cause adhesion problems providing you let dry and cure. If I do large projects and or many projects that require lacquer I will break out my compressor and use my HVLP gun and waterbase lacquer. If i am doing a small number of projects Deft is my go to lacquer.(or similar) Whenever I dip projects in Danish oil I never have to blow out frets. I let them drain to the side and wipe. If you are getting into doing faux woods made from poplar then there is an art to that but as I said grain pattern can not fool a knowledgeable person. I have people ask me many times what the wood is that they are interested and when I tell them if it is not some they know it goes right over their head. I will right down the woods used on the receipt when I make one out for them. It is more a reminder to me because a copy is kept by me. There are many products on the market that have more poly mixed in and are glossier and or more satin look. Just amounts used in mixture. Using dyes is another topic in it own. One other thing, the use of lacquer over poly is a choice because of ease of use, looks, and also environment the item is going to be used. Waterbased products over oil is another choice thing and both have their pluses and minuses.

I too have used dyes to color wood but you are doing something different when dying wood as oppose to staining it. I have used Rit dyes in alcohol but the thing to remember here is it is tough to even out the color if doing a large project because you can see the swipe marks when working with brush or even a rag. Wiping back over a dyed area makes that area darker. I have used this method on birdhouse ornaments but have dipped because they were small enough. If wanting to dye wood then I suggest using TransTint Dyes. Best on the market for depth of color and a little goes a long way.

Kevin I have used the different colored Watco danish oil stains and had good results or at least achieved what I set out to do. Have used med and dark walnut, cherry, fruitwood and a few others. I have also used minwax stains with good results. I have used them on oak and maple only, never poplar. Have done some pine too but that is always blotchy and do not like the look no matter what additive you use. They change the color of the wood which is what they are intended to do. Oils penetrate deeply and can be top coated without problems. Will say this whatever color you use only one coat is needed because with oil you can not deepen color with additional coats. The pigments lay in the grain and build to a point where they can not hold any more. If you start trying additional coats the stain does not dry and becomes a sticky mess. Thus flood the project and let soak and wipe dry and be done. Being I use oak so much I have also learned that if staining it is utmost important to keep wiping dry as the stain will continue to ooze out of the grain and could leave puddles of a sticky mess. Again the warning of disposal of rags is needed to be taken serious. The thing you have to keep in mind is that they color wood, not change texture of wood. In other words no stain is going to make a piece of pine or poplar and make it look like cherry or walnut. It will be able to get the color close to those woods but never exact because of the grain patterns and texture of woods. You wanting to replace the look and color of cherry with poplar will never happen. You are changing the natural look of a wood to imitate another. Now I suggest you give it a try and see for yourself and maybe this look is something you like and use and not treat it as an instead of wood but as an also wood. I use to offer many of my shelves, mirrors and clocks in different colors because people use to be big into darker furniture. Now today light is in so i stopped doing that but can custom make if need be. I never misrepresent wood types though. If cherry is wanted then cherry is what they get.

You are saying you had knee replacement and scrolling the same day!!!! That is not minor surgery. My brother had his done last year and was in pain for quite awhile with many sleepless nights. He is 57. Wish you luck.

Kevin found it. Has to be the 32 ford coupe from that site/ Check it out. http://www.80artdesigns.com/Andy32FordCoupetn_.jpg

That is pretty cool. Another project has now appeared on my to do list. I have a ferris wheel plan that I have not done yet. I also have a merry-go-round plan but it is not like this one.

What type scrollsaw do you have. You are pushing the limits on alot of saws. Are you scrolling the cover only?? If so then you will need a spacer to accommodate the difference in height so you will be scrolling through 2" of material so the spacer should be something easily cut and no grain to it. Unless I am not understanding what you are doing.

yes that should not be that hard if you have details of what she is looking for. http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=rolling+pin+holder&FORM=HDRSC2

Not as clear and does not spray evenly as others. Something with their nozzles. Just my opinion. More known for their poly sprays.

Cabot and Watco are also very good lacquers. Ebay has them as well as Amazon. I do not like Minwax.

satin lacquer is the key if looking for satin look. Deft spray works well and is easy to do.

Fir wood is the correct typing. Yes larger blade as well as a skip tooth blade is helpful. Less adhesive will also help. All good points.

I would just be so worried by that grabbing the piece and either breaking delicate frets or throwing for a spin. I have always just used my Porta Cable bloc sander. But I also always use #5 FD penquin silver reverse blades. Those couple reverse teeth are enough to knock off fuzzies on the back and the sander does the rest. Good luck with your new tool.

Ray thanks. I have been doing this for quite some time and have scrolled my share of projects. Working with a lathe now and then I am trying different things there. I love making pens and have a ton of ideas for them. Sometimes I combine both hobbies. Hope I have a few more years left in me to get some ideas done.

I use a branding iron which I think I shown in one of those links. I never put a date on any item and never will. I make items to sell and if they do not sell one year they appear every year till they sell and who knows when that can be. Would not want people seeing an older piece and then they want some discount or say something about the date. What difference does it make when it was made. just an opinion.

Kevin if you are going to use lacquer then I suggest you dip in blo and not Danish oil. Poly and lacquer do not play well together. You can adjust the sheen by satin, semi-gloss and gloss lacquers.

Kevin Danish oil is a mixture of mineral spirits, poly, and blo, and driers. Formulated to manufacturer. I love Watco and have used it for all my years. It was some 15 years ago I believe (could be wrong on time line) but Watco stopped making Danish oil when all the rage about environment. They got such a calling to bring it back that they did so with a slightly different more friendly mix. I have some of the old stuff left and use the new stuff and I notice the difference. But with that said I always dip and if I spray it will be either a Deft lacquer or a waterbased lacquer if doing large projects. I never use poly. Makes it look plastic. Lacquer has the properties to burn into each layer and thus no need for sanding between coats and it adds depth not layers of plastic. Blo is that plus mineral spirits to thin it out and help absorption into woods. It will always dry dull because no poly in it. As you probably know also wood choice can determine luster, plus sanding to a higher grit plus blade used to cut project. These are factors in all projects you make and maybe some people do not realize them. Wood--- tight grained wood will allow for less absorption of oils, open grained wood will allow more. Soft woods will dull more as opposed to hard woods such as oak. Blades--- the more teeth used when cutting will leave the grain smooth and closed more so than a course blade. Need to find that happy blade. Sanding--- the higher the grit the more you close the grain and less oil allowed and can polish easier. I use red oak for most of my projects and sand to 220 grit on all projects and use a #5 FD silver reverse blade on most projects. I also use a Watco satin polish on most projects to give that soft luster and feel. The frets are closed so they do not dull much but are not shiny either. I like the look. Not sure if any of this helps. Good luck.

1-1/4" dowels and cut to thickness. Use walnut and maple or mahagony and maple. Add design if you want to. Can scroll it in or if you have a lathe use that. You can use a circle cutting jig, a router or scrollsaw them out. Use a router to add design. Use a rosette cutter for design. That is about what I have for you. good luck.