kmmcrafts

Wow JT, Hey do us both a favor.. hover your mouse over my name on the left side of the screen, a pop-up shows up and click "ignore - user" then a screen pops up where you can check mark what to ignore.. you can choose posting topics PM's etc etc.. Just click them all for me under my name.. Then the site will hide all content of mine from you.. There, this way you don't have to read the stuff I put out there that I have no idea what i'm talking about.. and you won't get your buttons pushed because you won't see any my nonsense.. and nobody else has to read your angry replies aimed at me.. I'm just trying to be the nice guy really and not push your buttons.. But somehow anything I post you get pissed at me in some way shape or form.. so just do the ignore thing.. for everyone's sake.. because they don't want to read this crap. I'm glad you edited the post and took out a lot of your reply.. nobody here wants to read the trash. Thank you and have a great day. Sorry folks, Back to the topic now...

Well I'm disappointed.. my set of patterns I bought years ago doesn't have a clock with that name.. I didn't go through and look at each individual designs so maybe it's under a different name.. or somewhere in this 1800 pattern set that I bought years ago.. It's kinda cumbersome to look through them as I have to open up each file and scroll though the hundreds of designs.. LOL.. There seems to be about 10 large clock patterns of this nature though..

I very much agree with this..Me being a seller though, and not a hobby seller. I find that hard to do. The stuff I make helps put food in my kids mouths.. etc etc.. so it's not worthy for me to make something of this nature.. I get a kick out of folks saying they are just hobby scrollers then they get mad when someone tries to bargain with them at a craft show or they can't get squat or their items... wasn't the purpose of the hobby and hobby selling to get rid of the things you make.. and to mingle with the other sellers and customers..

A lot of the newer LP space heaters have a built in sensor and will shut down if the levels get too high.. I don't think the torpedo type offer that just yet.. and seems to be a big community of users of them.. You'd think they'd have that on there.. but then again.. They aren't made to heat a shop.. their intended use is to aim heat at people working outside on certain " outside " job sites.. Not for heating an enclosed area.. Though I think everyone I know uses them inside.. I've tried to run mine but not for only about 10 minutes at most.. and was stinking up and fuming me so bad I opened up the big doors and all the windows... My shop is a newer shop and is sealed up pretty good even though it's not fully finished and insulated yet... I intend to just build a small room in my shop where I'll put my saws at.. I don't mind the cold if I'm up moving around running a table saw or planer etc.. but just sitting in one spot scroll sawing is not moving enough to stay very warm.. I'mm put my electric heater in the scroll saw room and keep it at 40 - 50F.. I really have no real need to heat the whole shop.. This summer I hope to build this room and insulate it well..

I kinda had a feeling that it was a seller that didn’t make the clock. Heck the clock insert cost that much. Lol

I thought the design looked familiar. Several years ago when the berry basket was going out of business they ran a special sale. All of their patterns on a cd or download for $45 . Best $45 I ever spent as most all my clock patters are from them and I haven’t even scratched the surface of all those patterns. There is a few of these bigger project clocks in this set. But I’ve not got to make any yet.

Hopefully they meant to add a few 0's to that.. Added photo just in case this expires before you get to see it.. Perfect example of why Craigslist isn't the greatest place to sell scroll work these days.. I used to list stuff on there but only ever got a couple sales from it.. Not many folks on there looking for crafts and artwork etc.. https://nashville.craigslist.org/clt/d/handmade-scrollwork-tabletop-clock/7063143502.html

I also use one of those from time to time.. but boy it sure fumes the shop up in a hurry compared to the other little heater I use.. If I run that thing I only run it for a short time.. then kick on the electric heater.. That isn't often though because not a whole lot of days in the colder weather that I'm out in the shop for more than a couple hours.. The scroll saw doesn't stir up a lot of dust by itself... It's the "other" things in my opinion that create a lot of dust.. sanding is a huge one..

I was looking to install the Mr. Heater Big Max heater but contacted some folks that know more than I do on this and it has a open flame chamber? and they said no to installing it.. sure I know how to install a heater.. very simple.. but also very simple to blow a place up doing it to a place that isn't recommended to use one.. Woodshop use.. nope they said.. My oldest son is a firefighter.. and sees this stuff much too often.. while there may be a million shops heated with a open flame heater and run with no issues.. but there are a lot of fires out there they don't make the news etc too so... There seems to be quite a few of them that my son seems to respond to that this is the case... many folks think because the insurance companies frown upon a woodburner in a shop that a gas furnace is safe.. which it is.. but not in a wood shop.. I'd talk to your insurance company before installing anything of this nature in a wood shop.. They can weasel out of a pay out for damage if "you" install a furnace that isn't safe for a wood shop.. and if you have it installed they'll go after the installer for doing so.. at least this is the case in my area.. Insurance companies insure these places and see all the claims that come in.. they should know what is recommended for a safe installation.. The furnace guy might just be trying to make another sale.. so I don't trust them as far as i could throw a tree trunk LOL

I have inserts but only the one size and style.. Don't offer the movements just yet.. I only offer the styles and sizes I use because I buy them in bulk.. IF enough interest was drummed up on other styles and sizes etc.. I'd consider offering more.. but I haven't pushed for clock sales so interest is minimal, LOL I've sold maybe 50 clocks to members here and other places.. many times I don't have what someone is looking for.. If you're looking for just movements with hands.. I'd buy from woodworkingparts.com.. They sell a USA made movement and last time I checked they was cheaper than anyone else was too.. My clocks that I offer is just this one clock at the moment.. They are a all metal clock bezel with a rubber compression ring to install them.. I also do have a few plastic cased ones that look the same but have not put them on the website.. as I don't too much care for the plastic.. Here is the link.. https://www.kevskrafts.com/listing/686474784/quartz-36mm-clock-insert-fitup-gold

What is heat?? It's currently 19F in my shop.. I've been out there scroll sawing now for almost two hours.. You guys a bunch of wimps.. It was 17F when I came out here.. and I cut these puzzles while out here.. I just came in to wake up my kids to get ready for school and thaw out.. took this picture from my weather station.. I do have a propane radiant heater I sit next to me that I stop every now and then from cutting to put my hands over and heat up my gloves.. I leave the entry door open and have a window cracked slightly that sits near my saw for some ventilation.. If I'm out there for 6 hours or so I do smell some fumes sometimes depending on the wind outside, maybe the open door and window isn't quite enough.. Not very often I spend more than a hour or two out there this time of year anyway.. I bought a electric heater that hangs from the ceiling.. works OK if I'm going to be out there for a long time I use that instead now.. But I have a 24 x 32 shop with a 14 x 32 loft... Loft is insulated but nothing else is yet.. ( work in progress ) .. I think if the shop was well insulated and a tarp put up to block off the woodshop only.. that electric heater would warm it up nicely.. as I can take it from 20F to about 40 with the heater running for a couple hours.... but the shop is all open.

I cut a lot of 3/4" cherry.. I use the shelf liner.. and never had any burning issues.. I also use a #5 Pegas MG blade and cuts really well.. tight turns work well with them too.. My other go to balde was always a FD - UR #5.. but I would sometimes get some burning on tight turns if I wasn't careful.. But boy do those Pegas MG blades work awesome for cutting cherry..I run pretty good speed too.. typically about 7/8 on the dial on the Hawk which probably is around 1600 -1650 SPM.. I run full speed on the EX as it tops out at 1500 SPM..

I believe VS is variable speed... Your saw isn't a "variable" speed. It's a 3-4-5 or whatever many pulley - speed options it has.. variable would be the whole range of speeds.. I may be wrong but I don't think the tilting head came out until the current style saw design was made with the motor mounted to the saw body.. which I think was around 2003 ish

If you get the stand too.. the footprint will be the same.. as they use the same stand for the 16 & 21" saws... At least the Excalibur version does

You mean a Pegas 21" saw? Pegas only offers a 21" saw..

Not really answering the question... and I've only done the dust / glue mix a couple times.. but I can say I've not had all that good of luck with the finish afterwards.. I've tried different mixture ratios.. and one time I didn't get enough glue and the spot didn't stick well.. I'm thinking that the glue used itself is probably more important than the ratio of the mix.. I've read in the past about over the counter products that work well with finishes.. I'd be more apt to check into this or a better type of glue to use.. As you can tell... I don't have much experience with this LOL..

Yes 1984 300ZX It's my sons project car as is the Blazer on the other side... and the 3 First Gen Dodge Cummins trucks out in my yard, LOL.. He's a young dreamer of having a million cars.. Got a lot of work to restore all of them. LOL.. He is actually selling the Z and I might be the buyer.. I kinda like that little car.. I like the older 240 thru 280 Z's better..but this is a nice one that we still have the original owners title... just under 100,000 miles on it too.. Biggest issue with the car is it sat a lot of years in florida. and the mice made it a very large hotel for quit a few years.. and because of that.. the interior is junk.. as is some of the wiring.. we've repaired most of the wiring and had it running.. Runs awesome..

Actually having taken both saws apart.. I'll say that the Excalibur is about 2 times easier to take apart and put back together than the DW788's at least I thought so anyway.. lol.. yes the mechanism is really similar but they are different parts and different bearings / sleeves.. etc.. I do believe the front rocker assemblies may be the same.. but that's about it..

Here is a link to a topic just like this where others actually posted their shops.. when they was clean maybe? LOL.. My shop was a mess but I took pictures anyway, LOL.. Always figured a clean shop is one where nobody works.. just a hang out place.. I clean up the dust etc.. every day after working... but it still gets dirty etc.. doesn't help when the kids go work in there and don't clean up.. Put my foot down on that one.. they seem to be getting better at cleaning up..

Looks different now.. because I've bought a new Hawk, CNC Router, and a Laser since this photo was taken... I've re-arranged it and now it's more cramped because of more tools.. and project cars LOL..

If you use PBBlaster.. I'd make sure the saw is unplugged.. There is wires running from the power switch etc in that cover.. I'd also cover up the table of the saw to keep the oil from getting on it and then getting onto the next project you cut.. My Excalibur has hex head screws and requires an allen wrench to remove it.. and they was tight the first time removing them.. once broke loose they spun right out with my fingers so they wasn't really rusty or anything.. just tight, LOL.. BTW.. about the only thing that was tight on the saw too..

Nope.. only sealed bearing in the Hawks I have is the ones in the rocker shaft ( the flat steel bar that connects the lower arm to the motor ) The bearings in the arms at the back of the saw is a open cage bearing.. also the bearings on / in the motor are sealed.. Yes I took the motor apart before too.. They're built like a tank and will last a lifetime... apparently even if you don't oil them as the manual says to do.. LOL Not really something I'd tell everyone if I didn't ever oil my machine... but I'm glad you mentioned it because now we all know just how well they're built.. Bad part about Hawk is.. you can't get through to them to get parts if / when you need them..

Yeah the easy lift like Bill showed in his link is what I liked best. there are a couple others on the market too but this set up ( I thought ) was the better more user friendly one..

The mistake was I should have cut that little sliver off of the O after cutting out the R right around the -2:37 minutes left of the video mark.. Instead I cut out the O.. But at least I caught that before taking the pattern off and made the cut.. Blade was a #3 Pegas MG. Took me a few minutes longer than it should have because of the camera.. and the fact that I normally move the light out of my way during blade changes so the light was in my way for them.. and of coarse.. much harder to scroll looking through the phone screen instead of through my mag light.. with the light on I kept getting the LED wave link ( black spots and couldn't see what was going on.. then turning the light off made it hard to do as well.. But I got through the whole thing before iving up, LOL... I normally use my other mag light that is florescent bulb for doing videos.. but my son it borrowing it... OH Yes.. forgot to mention.. I did speed up the video.. ( I think 5x ) normal video was about 34 minutes ) I normally can cut this out in just under 20 minutes. but with video etc took a little extra time.. plus I bent a blade there near the beginning so I had to get another blade. not sure you caught that either.. Being the video was sped up it was easily missed.. Bent the blade because the mag light was in my way, LOL.. as I said... normally move it out of the way.. Just didn't want to bounce the video all around by moving the light.. as the camera was taped to my mag light lens.. so you see what I see while cutting..

I made another video cutting out a puzzle on my Excalibur this morning. My phone picks up the led light waves (black lines) so I shut off the light a couple minutes into the video. I made a mistake on this puzzle, let’s see who points it out. My new phone is much bigger than my old one and makes it even harder to see my work as I tape my phone to the lens of the magnifying light so you see better than I do Enjoy