kmmcrafts

Thank you Les

Was out sawing some ornaments and was thinking about your comment with the motor combo etc.. got me to thinking.. I'm thinking it'd run a little fast and not keep time too well with that kinda power and torque,

Do you sand your ply before applying the tape? The grain lifts as it absorbs moisture from sitting around..especially in a damp area.. I had some ply scraps that had sat around here for a year or more.. and the grain was rough and lifted some.. had the same issue you mention.. I even had some issues with the drill wanting to sink into the grain and drill crooked.. This happen years ago and ever since then I started sanding my BBply starting with 100 and work my way to 320.. no more issues with this since I started doing this..

Thanks for letting me know.. I'll check it out.. I've been so busy lately I haven't been keeping up with the messages..

That would be awesome to have the L-88 tri power.. unfortunately it's powered by a Japanese PC21S movement with a SR626SW battery.. Thank you for the kind words..

Brand new 1968 Corvette for sale.. has 0 miles on the clock and the rare Cherry wood natural paint. Pattern designed by Jim, Thank you again Jim I haven't posted in this section in a long time ( been busy ) have made a lot of new items but haven't showed them off, LOL Anyway.. I really liked this one so I thought Id share... Now I gotta get back to work.. Thanks in advance for any comments or likes.. just in case I don't get back on here right away..

You might also check for the newer model Delta saw... very much the same set-up as a DeWalt but lower priced..

Not as busy as I was last year but I'm not going to complain about that due to the circumstances I've had this year with family things.. I've been busy with family rather than the business side of things.. Maybe next year I'll make a good comeback.. LOL If not. oh well... it's all just fun and games anyway.. Right?

Using gloves with a table saw is how they make those gloves without the finger tips.. My wife got me a pair of those a few years ago.. but mine had the fingers..that had Velcro fingers.. the top of the fingers was connected to the glove but could fold up and Velco to the top side of the glove or put them down over your fingers... For the life of me.. I can't figure out how they made those with the table saw.. The blade must not have been up high enough?

Thank you Joe I had planned to have 200 ornament listings on there this year but never got to it.. Have that many different styles cut and photos taken.. just never got the listings up.. That's is the thing I don't like doing is the listings.. so its taken me years to get to this point.. Once things slow up from the holidays.. I'm making it a priority to re-work my pictures and get all my inventory up on the page..

My typical Monday morning chores this time of year. Little slower this week with only 60 ornaments and 7 clocks to package up. Rarely work in the shop on Monday and this is why, I’m packing orders. Hate weekends because I get backed up on mailing stuff out since the post office is closed. Thought I’d pop in and wish everyone else that’s selling a good December of many sales.

doing a quick search.. it looks like they sell a lot of different types of il products from spray can stuff to diesel fuel additive.. so what type of oil is it? By what you describe with the rust and also lubes.. I'm thinking out of the selection I seen without researching much this maybe what you're talking about https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCBHMP051?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&gclid=CjwKCAiA27LvBRB0EiwAPc8XWehF1BsfyoetD7FJbjxOrjViBxDmedFkuWeK2p7Krq5HLjjv47W0kBoCSY4QAvD_BwE

Well I stopped using it after the first time.. actually states in my manual to use it but I didn't like it at all.. I now mainly use the dry lube i mentioned above and or the 3n1 oil... the older Hawks mention just 3n1 oil.. I actually like to use it over the graphite.. Thank you for the heads up on it though.. It's nasty stuff that won't clean off anything hardly.. so I might throw it out..

I did the same thing with my Hawks.. They suggest a few drops of 3n1 oil every 25 hours use.. I used a high end synthetic grease on it just over a year ago.. after the busy holidays I'll pull it apart and clean it all up and re-grease again.. Hawk also suggest dry graphite lube on the tension cam lever at the front and the wedge at the back of the saw.. I used it but I don't like it.. I can tell a big difference in the PB Blaster brand Garage door dry lube with Teflon.. That stuff is awesome.. and not as messy..

Randy, Since I now have one of those newer BM series Hawks.. I have to ask if you've ever used a older version Hawk? Something I noticed right off the bat with my new BM series is the saw motor runs full speed right off the bat.. and this is about the only dislike I have with my new saw which I've gotten used to now.... I could see this being an issue with the smaller blades.. I rarely use a blade smaller than a #3.. but do go to 2/0's with spirals.. Anyway.. the older RBI models that I have... they have a "soft start" and I like that feature better... The features of the new saw ( for me ) out weigh the one dislike that I have with it.. I've run 100 hours on the hour meter I installed on it.. But I've not run it for a couple months.. No reason other than giving it a break and racking up the hours on the other saws.. My Excalibur will be 100 hours tomorrow as well.. and nearing that with the other two saws.. LOL.. Anyway, I just wanted to bring up that point with the new saw vrs the older with the soft start.. I know you had the newer BM series.. but wasn't sure if you felt the same way with the older saws if you've used them at all?

Beautiful cutting Ray!! That is going to be a beautiful piece when you get it done.. I hope you'll show the finished piece.. The number 5 blades used to be my go to blade.. but I'm finding that I like the way a number 3 cuts.. but it really does depend on what saw I'm cutting on and also obviously the material I'm cutting

When my power goes out.. it's usually not worth my time to go dig out the portable one and set it all up.. Most times it's back on in a couple hours.. take me that long to get it out and set up... but nice to have when those ice storms come and sometimes take out the power for a few days..

Just did that for my mother inlaw.. as she has copd and on oxygen.. but the old genny was too small for her oxygen generator / maker.. so I just put one in for her.. I've got a portable 7500 watt one.. we put a bigger one in and it's all hooked up and automated.. power goes out..it auto kick on.. Diesel Genny.. That's what i'm going to do for myself one of these days..

I think I need to invest into a treadle scroll saw after reading all this.. when the power goes out here.. man it's sure quiet.. and seems like nothing to do..

Beautiful work!!! and welcome to the Village.. I believe Randy uses the Excalibur 16" saw.. I'd stay away from the "NEW" excalibur 21" saw.. and go with a King if you're going to go with that type saw.. Reason being is the NEW excalibur (EX-21 model) is now a China made saw and they have some pretty bad reviews.. I have one as well and had a fair amount of problems with it for only light use that I've used it for.. The King brand is the same as the "OLD" higher quality EX-21 Excalibur.. I personally do not like the idea of cutting metals on a saw of the DeWalt and Excalibur type.. because the bearings in the link arms near the blade are just a needle bearing with a sleeve in it.. so sealed type bearings.. seems like the fine metal shavings would wreak havoc to those bearings... and the little bit of grease used in those bearings would also like to trap and hold that metal in to those bearings too.. With cutting wood like most do with these saws.. the wood dust will not hurt the bearings but it will dry up the grease, LOL but.. they are a great saw.. and I suppose if you was to keep those bearings cleaned out good and re- grease often... the saw will probably perform well for many years.. I also think the Hegner saw might be a better choice.. as far as the saw quality and built to last.. no bearing right up front to have the metal shavings dropping into etc... BUT... I do think these saws are quite finicky with them real small jewelers blades... and i think this is why Randy uses the Excalibur saw.. Hawk saws are also great and they do offer a wet pump to keep the blade cool specifically for cutting metals and ceramic tiles etc... However I don't think that would be an option for you in Canada.. and they are also very finicky with them small blades...

I wouldn't say a aluminum table cheapens up a saw... it's just the table.. LOL... in some peoples opinions.. the aluminum is a upgrade because if you leave it sit overnight without a protective coat of wax it's not going to rust by the next morning / week / year... Some of the top of the line saws have aluminum tables as I understand it.. Hegners ( some of them ) have aluminum tables.. as do the Hawks.. Might depend on the grade of aluminum too... The Hawk saws I believe are almost completely out of heavy aluminum.. I say heavy because they weigh in at around 120 lbs. and mostly made of aluminum, LOL.. Imagine the weight of that thing if it were steel, LOL.. I believe the arms on the old Deltas are aluminum as well as the arms on a Hegner and many other saws.. I believe Ray is correct about the table being steel on the saw though... Even my cheep China made Excalibur has a steel table..

I agree with those above.. But my take on what those others mean when they use the term is.. The blade is so sharp it cuts too fast for them.. I may be wrong on that but by the way some of them talk about the two blades.. that's what I gather in my tiny brain.. For what it's worth.. I used FD UR blades for 12 years..r more... When I tried the Pegas MG blade.. it cut so much easier.. that I didn't need to push the wood so hard so to speak.. which is how I like to cut.. why I run my saws about full speed.. I find that getting the cutting at a pace where I'm not pushing the wood through then those sharp corners and tight turns happen much easier.. When I take a FD blade and put it in my saw.. I instantly feel like I have to shove the wood through much harder.. Not sure I make sense but to me a new FD blade cuts like a dull Pegas blade, LOL Many people will say that they run the saw speed slow because it cuts too fast when running the saw faster..When this is said.. my first thought is they push the wood harder than I do.. and maybe harder than they should.. pushing the wood too hard into the blade makes the blade flex.. and they may not be getting accurate cuts.. I watch videos of others cutting.. when they get to the edge of the wood and the blade is about to cut through... with some of these videos you can really see that blade flex.. especially when they cut through that edge and out of the piece.. I don't try to criticize them so i never say much about this.. but they aren't letting the blade do the cutting.. If you're flexing the blade while cutting you're pushing too hard... want to cut faster? turn the saw up.. switch to a different blade so you don't push the blade too hard... everyone has a different style and speed.. and that's just how it is.. but pushing too hard you need to make a change.. with either saw speed or blades configuration.. The blade speed doesn't determine how fast / slow you cut.. the person behind the saw does... by how hard they feed the wood... I personally like the speed fast.. and just sort of glide the wood lightly following the lines.. a real smooth waxed table does wonders too.. My tables are slick enough that with those back legs higher than the front to get that tilt.. the board will slide off if I let go of it.. this prevents me from piling the table up with clutter on saws I'm not using for that day,

stack cut those puzzles and you'd be able to cut down on the rolls you use, LOL.. and I thought I went through a lot of that stuff... But the majority of my stuff is stacked 4-6 pieces at a time.. LOL

What are we talking about lubing? The upper lever cam mechanism? I would only use a dry lube with Teflon in it.. PB Blaster brand garage door dry lube is what I use on almost everything.. When I had my clamps off.. I took advantage of the access of the bearings and cleaned up the old grease in the needle bearings then applied my high end synthetic grease to them.. As for the lever itself. There is nothing plastic about it in the moving parts.. they have a metal insert in the lever... For what it's worth.. I asked about replacement parts for them and was told yes they have the parts if you ever would need them.. By the way it's made.. It probably would be easier to just replace the whole thing though..That metal insert is quite small and then the little spring and the sleeve for that metal insert looks to me like a lot of very small parts that the spring would send across the shop.. It is a very well made clamp.. I wouldn't knock it just because it has a plastic lever handle.. as it's just a handle.. Take a close look at the lower part of that handle and you'll see the metal insert and all the actual wear parts down there..

This is a screen shot of the Ex 16, 21 and 30 inch saws.. Note the fuse size on the last line at the bottom... it says 3.5A NOTE This is for the Older saws before the China made ones..