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Gonzo

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Everything posted by Gonzo

  1. Very nice!
  2. What a bummer! Are you “center punching” the hole before you drill? Also, that is a long way to drill with that small of a bit hanging out that far and then trying to drill that deep of a hole. You will get deflection. Quite often I will chuck the drill bit up so that only 1/2” or so is extended from chuck. Then I will pull bit out further to finish hole. I would venture to say that you are probably doing this, but I figured I’d mention it.
  3. I agree with what everyone has said.
  4. Per your quote: “One trick I learned a while back, when cutting the perimeter, do not cut across the bottom on the first side. Only do it on the 2nd compound side, this way the piece stays anchored in the body,and does not bounce. It also gives you the most accurate and flat bottom minimizing putting it onthe belt sander to flatten the bottom.” To me, that is the key to compound cutting when the opportunity is there on a flat bottom. Doing that, there is no need to take it to the belt sander. I’ve only made 3 chess sets on the scroll saw and what I’ve found is to do only a few pieces at a time. If I do more than 2 or 3, I start to get sloppy. By the way, that is a very impressive chess set! Makes me want to make another set. May I ask where you got the patterns? I to would like to see the set when it’s finished.
  5. Very nice Denny!
  6. Wow! Very cool! I was going to ask same question as Denny, is that Split Rock? Sure looks like it Again awesome work!
  7. Wow! Very nice piece. How big is it? As for pheasants, We are very fortunate. Our land abuts a wildlife management area. It seems to be teeming with pheasants. I attribute that to two winters in a row that weren’t too terribly bad.
  8. Very cool! And. Dry nice of you to do that
  9. Awesome work. Love the rocking horse
  10. Nice! Do you by chance have the pattern available for Gandalfs quote?
  11. I do not, but I use do use a sanding mop similar to what Scrappile posted. However, I make my own. Much less expensive and very easy to make.
  12. Kevin, you nailed it on the head. I always wondered how or why people would load their blades on the Hegners and Hawks. I suppose other brands are not a problem, but, I use strictly Pegas blades and always have. I too nip the blades so the ends are square. It’s become such a habit that I also nip them when using my Excalibur.
  13. Holy cow Dave! Those are beautiful! The 3D box just blows me away.
  14. Cool!
  15. Very nice. Wasn’t that pattern in the latest issue of Scrollsaw magazine?
  16. My first thought after reading your post, “Hmmmm, Timothy Leary?” Not kinda wild, very wild.
  17. Looking good Denny! Isn’t the ash kind of tough to cut?
  18. I did the exact same thing on the walnut bowl that I just finished. Luckily, I caught it in time, as the glue had not yet set. Nice bowl though!
  19. Thank you. It’s very easy to lift out the board. I was concerned about that, so I made it so that the board is set in only an 1/8” or so. The board is 13/16” thick. (I was expecting to have to plane it. ) Good point about warpage.
  20. Very nice! Love the walnut
  21. Thank you Marie. This is the book that has the patterns. Dave Monk recommended it to me. It is out of print, so I bought used on line. Like I told Scrappile, I suggest 2” squares for chess board. 1 1/2” is too small. The reason I went 1 1/2” is my planer can only go up to 13” wide. However, on this board, I didn’t have to plane it, as I glued it up the correct way using cauls. Believe it or not, I had .010 flatness after sanding it only. It did end up cupping just a smidge though, but not enough to care.
  22. Thanks Paul! I too was worried about how much lumber I needed. I sat down and did the math and then doubled my numbers. The last thing I wanted was to not have enough and then buy more and have it not match. if you make a set, I’d suggest minimum of 2” squares on the board. 1 1/2” is too small in my opinion
  23. This is the third chess set I have made using the scroll saw. Black Walnut and soft maple. Chess pieces were cut on my Hegner with Pegas #5 MGT. I went through 43 blades. It took me roughly 50-60 hours to make. Finish for board and box is shellac/alcohol, 50/50 split, applied using French polish method. Same finish was applied to chess pieces using a rag and tiny brush. A shout out to Dave Monk the master of chess sets for his input. IMG_6438.mov
  24. Thank you, I set it at 28 degrees. I put the final finish on the bowl today. I’ll be posting a picture or two.
  25. You are amazing! I love it!
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