OCtoolguy
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Everything posted by OCtoolguy
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Once you get it figured out, I'd like to see what you come up with. I don't have any factory stands for my Excaliburs and just lay the foot switch on the floor. But the Hegner is on the tall stand and so far, I've just sat on a tall stool and have the switch on the floor also. I'm looking for a way to affix the switch to the saw stand.
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I guess it's too late to tell you that Steve Good has a great video on setting up your new Seyco saw. Especially assembling the stand correctly. Oh, and congrats on your new saw. I know you will love it.
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I've heard that there might be differences in the small bearings and sleeves too. I'm just not sure. I had asked Bob Duncan when he was still with Pegas but never did get a definitive answer. I guess we'll have to wait and see.
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We won't allow Coke in our home any longer.
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I'd never buy a new one of those either but with all the used saws out there you don't have to. I just bought a used 18" Hegner for $230 and spent another $135 fixing it up and adding a QuickClamp. I've now got a $1500 saw for under $400. Just be patient and shop around.
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Barb & I are coffeeholics. We buy both regular & decaf at Costco in 3lb cans. One end of the can has a pull-off thing for opening but I flip the can over and use a can opener. We put a plastic lid on both ends of the can to keep the can from scratching the counter when it is slid across the Corian. Anyway, to my point, I opened one can with the pull-off just to have a can with one end crimped and then did what you did with the 1/8" plywood.
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Cheap & easy wins the day. When you get that little cyclone you can mount it in a 3 lb. coffee can or look on Amazon for the flip top canisters. I used the small one, Les used the bigger one. I'm going to try the coffee can on my Hegner but if it doesn't work out I'll get one like Les's. As long as it catches the dust and is easy to empty is all that matters.
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Agreed. I did the same.
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The next time I leave my county, I'll have to pick up a gallon. Darn, I was just in Tennessee and never gave it a thought.
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Les, this project turned out beautifully. As I knew it would. I expect nothing but the finest from you. Great job. Now, on to the next one. Tally Ho!
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No matter what method I use, be it the shelf liner, blue tape or the peel & stick shipping labels, when I'm done cutting, I just use a heat gun and the patterns come right off. I very seldom remember to sand before attaching the patterns so I will have to start doing that. If I could just figure out a way to jog my memory that is.
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Well, thanks for the clarification as I had NEVER seen anybody do a "paint by numbers" that came out looking as professional as that. Now I can rest easier.
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I agree. -
I posted the phone number here and then saw that you wanted it PM'd so I deleted it.
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Having one set of bearings & sleeves on the shelf would not be a large investment and would allow the dealer to honestly advertise parts availability. Maybe a switch & some fuses. Not much else to wear out normally. It would also be nice to know if Pegas parts would interchange with Excalibur.
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If you go to see this saw, be sure to look in that box of blades for the blade clamps that should have come with it. From the pictures it appears that the only thing that saw doesn't have that the new ones do have is the replaceable zero clearance plate. Not a big deal. There is virtually nothing to add to that saw except dust management. Try to get a better price but buy it even at $400. Ask about a light & foot switch too. Good luck!
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That's an asking price. I just bought mine for $230 but I had to put another $135 in it because the rear tension rod was broken and the knob missing. Also, the Quick clamp was never there and only one lower blade clamp. Now I have a very good saw. The blades are not a big deal but the saw is. The stand looks beat up but they usually are. I'd offer $300 and see where it goes but even $400 will buy you a "forever" saw. Not much to wear out. The bellows will probably be hard and cracked but that's not a big deal. I tossed mine and will be adding dust control so I won't miss it. Make sure the variable speed control works like it should. The saw has a soft start and it should not hunt for the set speed. My first Hegner had a problem with that so I sold it. Buy it!
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I was referring to Munzieb's photo of the paint by numbers beach scene that his wife did. It's so well done it doesn't look like a paint by numbers.
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- beach party
- scroll saw challenge
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You are blessed!
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As to the problem with the tension rod, I too had messed around with the shortening and lengthening the rod but until I finally really took a bunch off the bottom of that cover and then re-adjusted the rod to the shortest I could get it, once all that was done, the knocking went away. It's really about the clearance at the underside of the cover.
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I would think with the number of saws being sold/used that it might pay to become a stocking dealer for parts. Maybe cut a deal with Pegas?
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Thanks Denny. That's good to know. Also, the subject has come up in another thread regarding the parts necessary to rebuild a Pegas/Excalibur type saw. Are you going to be stocking the bearings/sleeves/etc over time? I hate to have to buy the entire assembly from Seyco to rebuild my Ex.
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Well, that worked out well then. Always nice to sell something rather than trash can them.
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I remember when you posted that. I also looked at the Seyco site and looks like it would be another $160+ to fix that. Lots of parts left over. Thanks.
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Kevin, that brings to mind the question of what to do if you need to rebuild the front arms/bearings on the Ex saws. You bought all the innards but what if you need to service the fronts? What then? Did you ever talk to Ray about that? I'd like to know for future needs. Thanks for all your input here.
