OCtoolguy

Having one set of bearings & sleeves on the shelf would not be a large investment and would allow the dealer to honestly advertise parts availability. Maybe a switch & some fuses. Not much else to wear out normally. It would also be nice to know if Pegas parts would interchange with Excalibur.

If you go to see this saw, be sure to look in that box of blades for the blade clamps that should have come with it. From the pictures it appears that the only thing that saw doesn't have that the new ones do have is the replaceable zero clearance plate. Not a big deal. There is virtually nothing to add to that saw except dust management. Try to get a better price but buy it even at $400. Ask about a light & foot switch too. Good luck!

That's an asking price. I just bought mine for $230 but I had to put another $135 in it because the rear tension rod was broken and the knob missing. Also, the Quick clamp was never there and only one lower blade clamp. Now I have a very good saw. The blades are not a big deal but the saw is. The stand looks beat up but they usually are. I'd offer $300 and see where it goes but even $400 will buy you a "forever" saw. Not much to wear out. The bellows will probably be hard and cracked but that's not a big deal. I tossed mine and will be adding dust control so I won't miss it. Make sure the variable speed control works like it should. The saw has a soft start and it should not hunt for the set speed. My first Hegner had a problem with that so I sold it. Buy it!

I was referring to Munzieb's photo of the paint by numbers beach scene that his wife did. It's so well done it doesn't look like a paint by numbers.

You are blessed!

As to the problem with the tension rod, I too had messed around with the shortening and lengthening the rod but until I finally really took a bunch off the bottom of that cover and then re-adjusted the rod to the shortest I could get it, once all that was done, the knocking went away. It's really about the clearance at the underside of the cover.

I would think with the number of saws being sold/used that it might pay to become a stocking dealer for parts. Maybe cut a deal with Pegas?

Thanks Denny. That's good to know. Also, the subject has come up in another thread regarding the parts necessary to rebuild a Pegas/Excalibur type saw. Are you going to be stocking the bearings/sleeves/etc over time? I hate to have to buy the entire assembly from Seyco to rebuild my Ex.

Well, that worked out well then. Always nice to sell something rather than trash can them.

I remember when you posted that. I also looked at the Seyco site and looks like it would be another $160+ to fix that. Lots of parts left over. Thanks.

Kevin, that brings to mind the question of what to do if you need to rebuild the front arms/bearings on the Ex saws. You bought all the innards but what if you need to service the fronts? What then? Did you ever talk to Ray about that? I'd like to know for future needs. Thanks for all your input here.

Ok, I managed to get the pics from my phone to my PC and resize them so here they are. Nothing to brag about but just for the sake of explanation. The corners here look bad but will be taken care of in later operations.

Good advice Charley. I did find a good source for the bearings near me but sleeves are the real expense. It appears from my research that Dewalt has the market cornered on them. They are twice the price of the bearings so if you need them, the cost to rebuild is pretty high. Crazy!

I think Mohawk is a brand that Behlen makes. Thanks. I was hoping to find it locally but so far no luck.

Thanks Dan. I did buy the Minwax lacquer but couldn't figure out what to buy for the "toner". I agree with you on the type of wood but this is a project that called for BB ply. It's a tissue box for the cubes that are all over our house. I could have gone the easy way and just done it natural but my wife wanted it to be dark/light to work with the picture frames in our bathroom. I'm doing it mainly to get the feel for my Hegner saw. Something simple and quick. Or supposed to be simple and quick. Here's a pic. The 4 outsides with the palm trees will be dark and the inner box will be natural. If you watched the video, I'd like the color to be just like the last panel with the toner/lacquer. I will have to add the pic from my computer. The file size on my phone is too large. Later.

The secret is to have 2 and rotate them. Always have one ready with new bears/sleeves/grease.

I've been watching this video about how to stain BB plywood. It seems like a pretty straight forward informative video but at the end, the presenter stains the wood and after it dries he sprays it with a "master toner" lacquer from H. Behlen. I've not been able to find it anywhere. I did find the second spray finish he applied under the brand name Minwax rather than Deft. Deft is not available anywhere near me. I have bought it before at the local Ace but not anymore. It seems that covid has ruined many things. Anyway, can someone explain to be what the "master toner" might be and how I might find it? Or do I even need it? I am making my first project using BB ply and want to finish part of it in a dark walnut stain and leave part of it natural with just a clear finish on it. Here is the link to the video I've been watching and maybe someone here might be able to advise me after watching it. Thanks for your time.

I totally agree with you Kevin and also Charley. The problem that we run into now though is the cost of everything has risen to the point to where it becomes nuts to spend the money on an old saw. If you replace all the bearing and the sleeves, you've got almost the price of a new saw when on sale. It's a sad fact of life that things do reach a point where it's just cheaper to recycle them.

Hi Kevin, to address the RV thing first, we are now both late 70's so our RV days are pretty much behind us. No matter what, it's still a lot of work to set up and take down your rig each time you move. That said, that in itself would not turn me off. But, the young families DO. They young set today have no regards for anybody but themselves and to try to address the out of control kids, you might as well put your fingers in a lamp socket. They will defend them all the way up to and including committing murder. I'm not a KID person but to find a family with well behaved kids, I always take the time to compliment the parents. So, we will just sell out and leave that lifestyle to the more "flexible" people who don't mind being intruded upon by others who you don't really want to be with. Ok, now to explain myself on the choice of saws. If you noticed, I led off with a 14" Hegner. Mainly for it's size and weight. That would be the best for carting around in an RV. I do love my Excaliburs but they are heavy and even the 16" is still bigger than my 18" Hegner. I've measured them. And they weigh about the same or more than my 18" Hegner. If you have a huge RV with diesel power, then the sky is the limit. At that point, I'd opt for the saw that I like the most. I'm still deciding which one I favor but I'm still leaning toward the Ex's. Mainly because I like to do angled cutting and the tilting arm/head are just great. And the Hegners have so few moving parts to maintain that they become something that can take being jostled around in the storage compartments of an RV. So, I think I have explained my choice. As for the vibration issue, I have had all of my saws running on my bench at one time or another and find that if clamped down they all have a certain amount of vibration but each one has what I call a "sweet spot". I never run any of my saws full speed. I find that the Hegner has a spot between 700 and 1000 that is just right and it doesn't seem to matter whether it's on the factory stand or on my bench. When on the stand, it is still sitting on a foam pad floor covering. None of my 3 saws vibrate uncontrollably. If they did, they'd belong to someone else. I am going to have to sell one of my Ex's and it will probably be the 16 inch just because I need the space. No other reason. I love them all.

I was a full time RVer and understand your question. After owning 5 different brands/types of saws, were I to go back on the road my saw would be a Hegner. I'd probably try to find a used 14" saw just because of it's overall size/weight. Being in an RV I'd probably not be doing large projects so the capacity would not be a problem. But if you wanted more table/neck capacity then the 18" would be the next choice. I presently own an Ex16, Ex21 and the Hegner 18". Weight-wise the Ex21 is the heaviest. The Ex16 second and the Hegner 3rd. It's overall size is also the smallest. I'd not use the factory stand. I'd mount it to a platform and clamp it to a picnic table or some other heavy table. Not something I'd carry with me. You'd figure out a way. When I was on the road I took up woodcarving so my hobby took up no space and weighed nothing. Good luck in your travels. Your biggest problem will be the fact that it has become very crowded out there now. With the onset of the covid mandate, housebound people all decided to go RVing. We just came back from a long trip and the frustrations of finding a place to park and fighting off the obnoxious new RVers made the trip miserable. We are selling our rig. No more for us.

It's strange that you bring up table size Kevin. I have the 2 Ex's and now a Hegner. The Hegner's table is even smaller than the Ex. But, for me, it hasn't made a difference. I've not run out of room for anything that I've but. I'm just not sure why folks are hung up on that particular thing. If you need a larger table, make an accessory table that can be mounted when needed. To me, it's just not a deal breaker. I guess if you are into doing those huge fretwork pieces with spiral blades, I can see where it might be important but that's not my forte.

You are so right Kevin. My point was to say that if customer service and parts availability are important to the buyer, Seyco would have to be my first choice. As you know, it's not that big a deal for me. I would lean heavily on the Pegas if they had a phone number where you could actually speak to a representative when you needed help. As far as I know, they still aren't servicing ALL the parts in their saws. To me, that says something. At one point it looked like Bob Duncan was going to be that person but I hear he is no longer affiliated with Pegas. I know Denny is our go-to guy here on The Village but even he doesn't have access to all the parts that might be needed. I made the statement regarding "buying American" not because of the country of origin but to support an American company that is marketing good products. I hope you get my drift.

Well, all 3 are good saws but the Pegas & Seyco are far better. And service from Seyco is great. If it were me, owning 2 Ex's, I'd opt for the Pegas just because of the tilt mechanism. But I'm rapidly becoming a "buy American" person so I might buy a Seyco. Call Ray and talk to him. He might just make your decision easier. You can't do that with any other saw maker.

51 1/2 here.

If you had it apart to do a bearing service, there's always a chance that something didn't get put back correctly or has come loose. As to the bearing service, what you did was to prevent a problem if you didn't find any problems. The grease that is in the bearings from the factory is crap if it is even there at all. So lubing with the synthetic grease was a very good thing. When you turn your speed up are you able to hear where the noise is coming from? Does the sound change under a load when cutting? Or is it a knocking without a load?