OCtoolguy

If I'm not wrong, it should have 3 blade clamps of differing slot sizes. Make sure you get the key for the clamps. If it has the front tension release as mentioned that is important. Also, if it has the knurled upper clamp knob that is nice too. When I bought my Hegner I tried it and it seemed to work fine but after getting it home I realized that it had a speed problem. The saw has a "soft start" and mine would seem to search for the speed that I had it set to. I never did determine whether it was a problem or not. I sold it. But I'm still searching for the right deal. It sounds like yours is a good deal if it works well. Best of luck.

I did a quick search for a manual and found this download. I hope it helps. 18317.pdf

There are many bearings/ sleeves on your saw and I'll bet they've never been serviced. My suggestion is, before you use it, tear it all apart and inspect every bearing and sleeve. Replace any that have wear patterns on them. Lubricate with Valvoline synthetic grease. Don't wash out the bearings. Wipe them clean as much as you can. Don't use any kind of spray on them. It will leave a coating on the bearings that repels grease. I learned that lesson the hard way. It's going to be a great saw once you have serviced and adjusted it. Enjoy. I'll bet you can find an owner's manual online somewhere. That would be a great starting point. There may even be one here on SSV. There is a section for them.

Welcome to the Village Kevin. I felt the exact same way 6 year's ago as a total newbie. I have learned so much from this great group. Good luck with your saw.

Yes, Pegas chucks for sure. When I mount a blade on my EX, I position the blade into the top clamp so that the top of the blade is just right at the top of the clamp. Then I install the blade into the bottom clamp. Once that's done, I loosen the top back up and pull down on the upper part of the mechanism to take any slack out of it and re-tighten the upper clamp. I hated the old EX upper clamp.

Yeah, I'll be Kevin is right. Good luck.

Scrap pile?

Bill, I'm going on 78 and what I don't know would fill many a foot locker. I'm glad you got something from what I wrote but none of it is gospel truth. There are many folks here with a lot more knowledge than me. I just seem to muddle my way through. Best of luck. By the way, I was born in Wisconsin. I'm so happy my folks left when I was 6. Racine is not a wonderful place to live now.

OldHudson said it and we all seem to agree with his suggestion. I too have a bunch of old sanding discs that were given to me by a neighbor and I have been doing it this way for a couple of years.

I completely agree with you Les. I have a Fein vac/DustDeputy that I had plumbed to my first scroll saw. When I sold that saw, I decided to have a dedicated dust collection system for each of my two scroll saws. I am using essentially the same systems as you except I have 2 of the MetroVac500's along with the mini cyclones. I still use the Fein but for other things like cleaning around the shop. I put together a Ridgid 14 gallon vac with a Dustopper from H/D for my table saw and router table when I work outdoors. There are so many ways to go on this subject that I feel that it all depends on your individual needs. I think the best thing I had purchased so far for dust is my Wen air cleaner. I have it mounted up above my primary scroll station and let it run whenever I'm in my shop. It does a great job of cleaning the air that I breathe. I also wear a dust mask with changeable filters. Another great system that works and is very cheap is the 20 inch box fan with a furnace filter attached to it. I found that it caught most of the dust that was being blown off my scroll saw table.

I might also suggest that you start a new topic with appropriate title since this one is almost 2 years old.

Does it have much movement with the clamp in place? I'm thinking that the whole mechanism depends on being complete. Yours does seem a bit "wobbly" but it should tighten up with all pieces in place and snugged up. Have you adjusted the set screws on both clamps so they are in alignment? Very important that they are.

I just watched this video. Other than the fact that this guy is a "craftsman", he presented a lot of info and a couple of what I would call just the right ways to go. I was enthralled with the way his thought process worked. I am in awe of his ability to think, reason and design. Everything in his shop is done just the right way. It's 45 minutes of pure enjoyment. At least it was for me. I want him for my neighbor.

Not sure but it might have been the backer that warped. I've heard that strange things happen when gluing to only one side. Internal forces at work.

Leave them as they are. It's possible to over tighten. There are many other things that can cause vibration. Is it firmly mounted? How old is it? It might need general tear down for inspection and lubrication. Where was it made? If Chinese, that may be part of the problem. Canada & Taiwan were the best saws. The biggest problem is dry bearing/sleeves. We really need more info and maybe some pics. I've got two EX's that don't vibrate.

Dan, I'm not sure about Teflon but I've heard that a lot of coatings will effect the way your wood takes stains etc. I know silicon is not good.

Dave, go to the contractor's desk at H/D and get with one of Pros who do special orders. They know what they are doing and should be able to advise you.

You would think so but it's not. It is held firm at both ends and pivots near the center of the upper arm. The two arms, the blade and the tension bolt at the rear form a pretty solid rectangle and it does pivot and forms an arc. Very minimal but an arc never the less.

Welcome to the village. Your language is just fine. Far better than my Italian. As to your question, any scroll that has two arms and hold a blade with tension will swing through somewhat of an arc. So, it will be, at times, either fore or aft and the only time it might be centered is at the exact center of that arc. There has been much discussion regarding this subject but it looks like your saw is just fine. As long as it cuts well and you can control it, all good.

Jerry, just hang out by the local grade school. There are plenty of sellers there. LOL.

I am now using Opera as my browser and it has a neat ability to grab shots of anything on the screen. I haven't tried editing them yet but I think it will.

Have you ever noticed whatever you drop always goes under something and not out in the open? Invariably it rolls under my workbench lower shelf and I MUST get down on all fours to find it. I use my extendable magnet a lot.

Since your saw and the Dewalt are clones there is a ton of useful info on scrollsaws.com. I think both of the suggestions that have been suggested so far are valid but check out the other hints there for further reference. Get familiar with your saw.

I like the looks of that one. I have a Dewalt jobsite saw and after "tuning" it up, I've decided to keep it. I might build something like this. Where'd you find it?

Danny, I bought mine on Amazon, I found a package of 100 8.5 x 11 for under $10. I didn't think that was too outrageous when you compare to the price of blue tape. I wrap whatever I'm cutting with packing tape and then the label. I buy the cheapest packing tape I can find. Usually at the $1 store.