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OCtoolguy

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Everything posted by OCtoolguy

  1. OCtoolguy
    I bought a used Dewalt and I love it. They do require some maintenance especially if you buy a used one. But nothing that is going to cost a ton of money unless you buy one that is worn out. R
  2. OCtoolguy
    So, I'm in good company?
  3. OCtoolguy
    Whoa Katie, I just looked at your pattern and fell off my stool. Whooosey! But, nice job anyway.
  4. OCtoolguy
    I thought I made a mistake one time but I was wrong.
  5. OCtoolguy
    Very nice work Dave.
  6. OCtoolguy
    You're breaking out of California? Does Governor Moonbeam know that you are going? Better check with him first. He needs your $$$ for the bullet train.
  7. OCtoolguy
    Anybody tried the blades from PS Wood? I know they are expensive but from what I hear, they cut very well and are very sharp. R
  8. OCtoolguy
    So many blades, so little time. SAD!
  9. OCtoolguy
    I bought a book from Amazon by the title of Boxe, bowls, and baskets by Fox Chapel. I think it might be out of print but it's still available. I'm doing a basket right now that was in the book. Here is a pic. R Nut Basket.pdf
  10. OCtoolguy
    Thanks to all of you for your kind comments and for all the help and advice. This is truly a unique place. I feel like I'm at the Boys & Girls Club or the local Senior Center. Lot's of fun, comeraderie and learning going on. R
  11. OCtoolguy
    Ahhh yes, retirement it good. Now, if there was just a show to go to within a day's drive.
  12. OCtoolguy
    Just for the fun of it, try loosening the locking knob enough that you can "pull" the table toward you about a 1/4". Then stick a wood shim in behind the trunnion so it's between the trunnion and the base casting. Then try tightening the knob again. See if that allows you to "lock" the table down.
  13. OCtoolguy
    Well, you have narrowed it down to one of too offenders. Or both.Obviously the trunnion and the cast base are not coming together as they should. It would have been nice if Delta would have just sent out both pieces so you wouldn't have to be messing around experimenting any further. Keep us updated on what you finally have to do to remedy the situation.
  14. OCtoolguy
    What somebody needs to do is take the time to put all this info together for those of us who are new to the hobby and have Travis make a "sticky" out of it so that the question isn't asked as often. Just a suggestion. R
  15. OCtoolguy
    Thanks Les. That's the sort of info that is gold for us newbies. Have you ever tried any of the FD XL blades? They don't have any reverse teeth so they won't be good for plywood but for solid wood, I'm finding that they do very well. I'm using a #5 XL in 1/4" poplar right now and I like it. I went back to the Pegas and FD reverse blades and was right back to having the kerf clearing problem again.
  16. OCtoolguy
    I think that will be the answer Jack. I watched his video a few times. The front was locked down very tight and I could see the movement coming from the rear because of the leverage factor. And also, he has the detent ball/zero pointer completely off the saw. That in itself serves to hold the front of the table in place. R
  17. OCtoolguy
    Back in 1985 or 6 I went to a Woodworking Show somewhere in Colo. Springs. That's where I bought my Hawk 26" scroll saw. I took it home, put it together and never used it for anything. If I recall, I paid about $600 for a dust catcher. It used a belt and a two groove pulley underneath. I ended up selling it to my neighbor. It lives in Tennessee now on their farm. R
  18. OCtoolguy
    I'd sure like to see some sort of event come back to the So. Cal. area again. It's been a long time since we have had a woodworking show of any kind around here. It got too expensive to put on so they stopped having them. Too bad. They should find a field somewhere and put up a "revival" type tent and have free parking too. Can you see me dreaming again?
  19. OCtoolguy
    Thanks to all who have replied. The blade was not in upside down for sure. I tried a couple of different blades. I had the best luck with a non reverse blade. I think what the problem is is the adhesive from the layer of shelf liner and spray adhesive being too much for the tiny blades to clear. Once I got up to a #5 XL blade, the problem worked itself out almost completely. I was also trying to run the saw too slow as I'm still learning how to control the cutting. I'm getting better though. Thanks again, sorry to be a bother. Ray
  20. OCtoolguy
    Thanks. I thought a lot of people had switched over to the shelf liner instead of the more expensive blue tape. Actually, this is the first time I've had this problem and I thought maybe it was because of the poplar. I have been using BB for most everything I've done up until now. But, I see your point and I will give it a try. Thanks again.
  21. OCtoolguy
    Thanks. I think you hit the nail on the head. I'll have to figure out a better way. Not sure yet what that will be but maybe I'll try it the next time without the shelf liner. I thought I was doing it the way most others do it.
  22. OCtoolguy
    Believe it or not Jes, my buddy had a home up in San Marino that had a basement. The house was built back in the early 20's. It was far enough above sea level that it was possible.
  23. OCtoolguy
    Check to see if the table has any up-down or side to side movement at the pivot pin. It shouldn't. If it does, try a wrap or two of masking tape and tighten it up.
  24. OCtoolguy
    Ok, update. I tried using a non- reverse blade and that has helped a lot. I also stepped up a size to a 5 XL from FD. Seems to be better. R
  25. OCtoolguy
    If you can stop the movement at the rear, there will be no movement at the front. Try a clamp of something.
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