OCtoolguy

I have embarked upon my project basket that I showed you all a couple of weeks back. It is made up of 7 layers of poplar and a top and bottom of oak. All are 1/4" thickness. I sanded all pieces first and then applied the shelf paper that everybody is using now. Then, I applied 3M 77 to the pattern paper and then the paper to the shelf liner. All good to go. I started cutting with a Pegas #3 MGR blade. I did one piece of poplar with that. Then for the second piece of poplar, I tried a FD #3UR. Both seem to cut just fine. My problem is, the kerf is very fine and the blades are not clearing the sawdust/paper residue. The little blower nozzle and the vacuum inlet aren't clearing the kerf. It's almost like I'm cutting wet wood but I don't feel that it is even damp. So, my question is, is this normal or should I go to a larger blade like a #5. Is the reverse cut doing it? I'm new enough at this that I don't know just what to do. I'm getting a very nice cute with #3 and there will be little to no sanding required. I'd sure appreciate any advice from you more experienced folks. Nut Basket.pdf

Best of luck to both of you. I recall having to find creative ways to generate extra income. Now, I'm retired and the only way is to do the handyman stuff around our park. That does keep me in spending money. Of course, I have to split it with my partner. She keeps a tidy house for me so I have to "pay" her something. Geesh! R

By the way, that zero pointer should be installed as it has a detent ball that centers the trunnion and believe it or not, it does keep the table from small movements when at the zero point. That ball should locate in a hole on the underside of the trunnion. If that is back in play, I feel that the movement you are experiencing is all at the back of the table. You maybe have a defective table, a defective rear swivel point or??????? I watched the way you "cranked" down on the locking knob and you should never have to apply that much pressure. It won't be long before the threads in that brass bushing are going to be worn out. The only other thing that I can come up with is if the table is possibly over-length and it is contacting the rear pivot point and not allowing the front trunnion to mate with the base. It wouldn't take much for that to happen. There are a lot of things that can still be checked but if none of these are the case, I'm out of ideas.

Just for the heck of it, try taking the trunnion bolts out of their holes in the table so the table is eliminated from the equation. Tighten up the trunnion and see if it still moves. If it doesn't move, then see if the trunnion bolt holes are aligned with the holes in the underside of the table. From what I could see in you video, the table is really only moving at the rear. I'm wondering if the hole in the back of the table is oversized or if the o-ring on the locator pin is the wrong size. I don't see much movement at the front of the table at all. I'm thinking that if the rear of the table was stabilized, it would be pretty solid.

I like white on red. Black would be too dark if you ask me. What you have there now looks great.

I checked mine today and I agree with Jerry. Now, if the bolt is not a carriage bolt, it may not be tightening completely.

Ok Paul, I forgot that I was reading an older post. You see, I have "old timers" and I forget stuff. R

My thoughts too Jerry.

I started calling ours gym. I can now say that I go to the gym everyday. Sometimes many times a day.

Paul, the used saw that I bought came with a homebrew table top that the previous owner made out of hardboard (masonite). I incorporated a table insert that is replaceable. It's really a simple table that he made. It is the same shape overall but just larger and then he put wooden stopper strips on all four sides underneath. I'll take a couple of pics tomorrow and post them. Nothing fancy but it does give you a larger work surface. R

You folks are all so talented in your own ways. You give all of us novices something to strive for.

And from what I hear, you can do the same thing with cranberry juice. Just stay close to the john. Every shop should have a john.

My apologies to GrandpaJim. I sure didn't intend to hijack your thread here Jim. I got carried away. Sorry. Ray

Thanks Paul, I will give it a try but it is so hard to explain that I may have led folks astray with my description. If, say, I have the speed knob set at 1000 and I stip on the pedal, there is a momentary hesitation before it starts. I know that is supposed to be normal but what I'm concerned about is when it starts it jumps up beyond the 1000 and then settles back to what I think is 1000. It's like it's "searching" for the speed that I want. The higher the speed the more pronounced it is. At the slowest speed, it is not as noticeable.

Dave, you got my curiosity up so I went looking for that font. I googled it as scroll script MT and couldn't find it. I tried it as scrollsaw script MT and found it but I have no idea how to go about getting it. I found it on Pinterest and that site baffles the heck out of me. I find stuff there and click on it. Then it takes me off into NeverNeverLand. Where might I find it? I want to add it to my fonts. R

You folks simply amaze me. You look at a font and recognize it. They all look as much alike as they are different. Still trying to saw. Don't have time to learn fonts too. Dave, you are the "font" man. R

Hey Brad, you might start looking around for a "potty chair" to sit in while sawing. Just a suggestion. Ha!

When you "crank" down on the lock knob, does it lock the trunnion tight? Is there a possibility that the lock know screw is bottoming out and not truly locking the trunnion. I'm trying to envision what it is that you are experiencing. It's such a simple design that it should be fool proof.

Can you post a pic or two of what you are talking about? I have a Dewalt but it should be the same.

Glad to hear of another new Hegner owner. I too am one and still getting used to it. My only complaint at this point is the soft/slow start up. I'm not sure if mine has a problem or not and I have been trying to locate someone near me who has one and tells me that they have no problem with that aspect. I want to compare mine to theirs so I know if I'm chasing something that is normal or if I have a problem saw. I really like everything else about it. It is a very different animal from my Dewalt and I like it too. Like having two women who both satisfy you but in different ways. OH! I know I'm going to get it for that comment. R

I would also be looking for excess vibration. Mine had some vibration problems that were corrected by disassembling it and checking for loose screws or bolts. It turned out that mine had the main drive bolt coming loose. I tightened that up and cured most of my vibration. The rest was just in cleaning and repacking the bearings in all joints. If it runs smoothly and cuts as it should, $250 is not a bad price. I paid that same amount for mine and it came with the factory stand and light. I use neither of them anymore though. I built my own stand and I bought a H/F magnifier lamp. Good luck with your negotiations but try to get it for less than the asking price. R

I walk into walls a lot.

Too much power. I'm so sorry for this answer. I truly thought someone was joking about their "old" saw. So, I was being my stupid self and putting forth a stupid answer. Very sorry for that.

You have been extremely lucky in your purchases. I have found some great deals on C/L too but not like yours. R

Les, at our age, we only have one oar anymore. R