Charley, I will take your advice to heart and do some others first. At this point, anything that is too challenging will be put on the back burner. So to speak.
Ray
Along the same lines, I might ask whether it would work the same on a Hegner. There are two small rollers that appear to be made of plastic and mine are very stiff and hard to move. They are supposed to "roll" I assume but now I'm wondering if maybe they just "slide". Either way, it's tough to move the tension lever to de-tension the arm.
Ray
I think a lot of it depends on where you are located. I've seen them around here without the stand or light for under $400. There are a couple of used ones on C/L by me right now for $250-$300 with everything. Not bad looking saws either.
Ray
Kevin, on a piece like this would you start your cutting from the whiskers out or would they be some of the last cuttings? I'm not sure I understand the methodology of this subject. I can certainly see how you would want to tape in the removed pieces for stability but I'm just not sure what you mean by strategic planning.
Ray
That's strange. I put some on a piece and then set it down for a few weeks before I was able to get back to it. After cutting, it peeled right off.
Ray
Les, he explains it somewhere in his posts. It's a PVC union for joining two pipes together and making it a joint that can be taken apart. I had to look at it too to see why the screw was there. One half of the union might be glued to the PVC on the bottom but the top piece swivels and if done enough times in might make the union clamp come loose so he put a "set screw" in that clamp piece to keep it from turning. I hope I did a decent job of explanation.
Ray
Very nice job. I have heard that you can take an old playing card, run it half way through the blade and tape it down to the table top to give you a zero clearance helper. I haven't tried it yet but it makes sense. I have the same saw as you except mine is a Dewalt. You are really coming along. Way better than me.
Ray
Thanks for your explanation. If I'm not mistaken that is what folks here are calling a "compound" cut. I asked for an explanation on that a while back too. I will have to give this one a try.
Ray
Since I'm new to the hobby and don't know much, is this a compound cutting? I'm really like it but I'm trying to understand the method of making it.
Ray
Up until now, I have been leaving a sticky note on the table of my saw with the brand name and all the info for the blade that is in the saw. Mainly because, like you, I can't remember much anymore.
Ray
Thanks. I have no idea why I want to keep buying the different saws but I read stuff here and figure I must have that one or this one or whatever. I guess I should just go cut something and stop hanging out here. I get nothing done but I sure learn a lot.
Ray
I agree. Unless you can pipe it down in size to get some real suction at the pipe ends. Sort of the same as a venturi in a carburetor. Air speeds up as it passes through a smaller opening.
Ray
When my folks came to California in 1948 they were pulling a 26 foot house trailer behind a 38 Buick Century 4 dr. I sat in the back seat and it was a trip to remember. Maybe that's why I love RVing so much. We were literally "trailer trash" back then. We lived for 4 years in Pasadena Ca. in a park called "Trailer Haven". It wasn't "haven" in any way but the worst. Itinerant was an apt description. But, I loved every minute of it. I was 5-6 years old.
Ray
For someone who doesn't own an Ex but wants to buy one in the future, is there any particular one to stay away from? I get the feeling that no matter where it's made or who made it, people are happy with them. Can we pretty much take that to the bank? I'm watching C/L everyday for a used one and I would hate to have to worry about all the stuff before buying one. I'm sort of confused at this point.
Ray
I can't say one way or the other but since they recommend taking the tension off in the owner's manual, I got in the habit of doing it. But, I have forgotten many times and so far haven't seen any difference one way or the other. I'm not smart enough to make an educated decision on the subject so I'll just keep on doing what I have done in the past. FORGET to release the tension. Maybe with this reminder sign it won't happen quite so often. Thanks for your input Jerry. I read everything you post.
Ray
I believe what you are saying but what about a car's springs? I've heard and always believed that the springs begin to sag after many years of having the weight of the car on them? Is that the same principle or not?
Ray