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OCtoolguy

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Everything posted by OCtoolguy

  1. OCtoolguy
    Rocky, I'm with you. Maybe with some background music it would be better. Everybody has different taste. I was never a Jimmy fan. He could sure play the guitar though. Ray
  2. OCtoolguy
    After reading on through the entire thread, I found the answer to my original question so I have edited it out. I will add though that I found a similar flex LED light at IKEA for about $8 each. I only bought one but now I think I'll go back and buy another one. This looks like a great idea and I will be installing something similar on my Hegner. Here is a picture of what I bought although mine was painted white and sold for a couple dollars less. They also have ones with a base instead of the clip for a couple dollars less.
  3. OCtoolguy
    Charley, that looks great and I will be giving it some thought. I was wondering though how much weight is added to the arm of the saw. Will it still stay up with the arm lifter that most of us are using? I don't see one in your pictures so I was just wondering. Ray
  4. OCtoolguy
    This has been one of the best topics to come along. I have enjoyed reading everybody's story. The one thing that I have seen in common with many of them so far is it seems that we are all short of shop space. Very few of us have all the shop we would love to have. The other thing is that it seems that scrolling is very therapeutic for many of us. It is something that most folks can do even with some sort of injury or physical limitation. I'm very lucky in the respect. I am still very healthy at 75 and only have a weak back to contend with. Sitting at my computer is my main problem. I truly need to have a time controlled spring mechanism on the seat of my chair to "boost" me out of it every half hour or so. I have promised myself that I am going to get something accomplished this Spring/Summer season. Even if its just to clean out my shop. Anyway, thanks to the OP for starting this thread and I hope more stories are coming. I have already told mine too many times so I won't bore you with it again. Ray
  5. OCtoolguy
    Kevin, can you see the names of the mfgrs. on the two controllers. I know that I contacted one of them, I can't recall which one now, and they told me to send them the controller and they would try to repair it. Ray
  6. OCtoolguy
    We had the opportunity to try those pillows when we stayed at the Riverside Hotel/Casino in Laughlin, NV. last year and we hated them. They felt like they were filled with chunked up pieces of foam rubber. Good luck with yours. Ray
  7. OCtoolguy
    I see they have an option of buying 30 for $18.95. That's not so bad. Ray
  8. OCtoolguy
    Not intending hijack this thread but on the subject of blades, a lot has been said about brand and type of blades. My question is, how do you really know when a blade is worn out and needs to be replaced. I have cut entire projects with the same blade and it was still doing ok but I"m sure I should have changed it for a new one. I watch for any burning but as for speed of cutting, I haven't actually seen that time when I should have changed the blade. I will say though that I have noticed a huge difference between the reverse tooth blades opposed to the none reverse ones. The wood doesn't have that "jumpy" feeling. Ray
  9. OCtoolguy
    Thanks for your advice. I will check that out and see if that's the problem. It just seems like it takes a lot of force to move that lever and in my estimation, it shouldn't be that tough. I'll do as you say. Ray
  10. OCtoolguy
    There have been quite a few Hawks for sale near me. I always just look at the switch on the side before going any further. If it doesn't have the variable speed controller next to the switch, I just pass it on by. With that said, the ones that are on C/L right now are all non-variable speed and they are asking nearly the same price as the one you are inquiring about. So, by all means do what the more knowledgeable folks here have suggested and get hold of RBI/Bushton and see what they can tell you. Ray
  11. OCtoolguy
    Well, there went my suggestion. Wax paper will do the trick. Ray
  12. OCtoolguy
    Very nice Randy. I was hoping that the video was going to show how you did it though. You are the "coin master".
  13. OCtoolguy
    Iggy posted a while back where he buys his and he gets them at a pretty good price. Maybe shoot him a PM and ask. Ray
  14. OCtoolguy
    I bought mine from Amazon. They came as 60 tubes/with stoppers and a plastic rack that was folded flat. It works but puts the tubes too close together for my liking. I'm almost thinking of downsizing some sort of rack and making 3 of them to keep the 3 major blade brands separated. For us newbies, since it's all still a mystery, it might be easier that way. Ray
  15. OCtoolguy
    Charley, I will take your advice to heart and do some others first. At this point, anything that is too challenging will be put on the back burner. So to speak. Ray
  16. OCtoolguy
    Along the same lines, I might ask whether it would work the same on a Hegner. There are two small rollers that appear to be made of plastic and mine are very stiff and hard to move. They are supposed to "roll" I assume but now I'm wondering if maybe they just "slide". Either way, it's tough to move the tension lever to de-tension the arm. Ray
  17. OCtoolguy
    I think a lot of it depends on where you are located. I've seen them around here without the stand or light for under $400. There are a couple of used ones on C/L by me right now for $250-$300 with everything. Not bad looking saws either. Ray
  18. OCtoolguy
    Kevin, on a piece like this would you start your cutting from the whiskers out or would they be some of the last cuttings? I'm not sure I understand the methodology of this subject. I can certainly see how you would want to tape in the removed pieces for stability but I'm just not sure what you mean by strategic planning. Ray
  19. OCtoolguy
    That's strange. I put some on a piece and then set it down for a few weeks before I was able to get back to it. After cutting, it peeled right off. Ray
  20. OCtoolguy
    Les, he explains it somewhere in his posts. It's a PVC union for joining two pipes together and making it a joint that can be taken apart. I had to look at it too to see why the screw was there. One half of the union might be glued to the PVC on the bottom but the top piece swivels and if done enough times in might make the union clamp come loose so he put a "set screw" in that clamp piece to keep it from turning. I hope I did a decent job of explanation. Ray
  21. OCtoolguy
    Very nice job. I have heard that you can take an old playing card, run it half way through the blade and tape it down to the table top to give you a zero clearance helper. I haven't tried it yet but it makes sense. I have the same saw as you except mine is a Dewalt. You are really coming along. Way better than me. Ray
  22. OCtoolguy
    Thanks for your explanation. If I'm not mistaken that is what folks here are calling a "compound" cut. I asked for an explanation on that a while back too. I will have to give this one a try. Ray
  23. OCtoolguy
    No problem Les. Just buy the ones made for aluminum. Not sure what they are called? LOL!! Ray
  24. OCtoolguy
    That was my first thought too Les. Way to pricey to just leave them on the saw. I do like the idea but maybe when the price comes down a bit. Ray
  25. OCtoolguy
    Since I'm new to the hobby and don't know much, is this a compound cutting? I'm really like it but I'm trying to understand the method of making it. Ray
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