OCtoolguy

I love what you have done Runa and if it were me, I'd be putting them out there for sale. This is the right time of year to do it too. I see that Amazon is going to be opening something similar to Etsy too. Should be interesting. P.S. I see we are neighbors. Not far apart. Ray

I was reading some postings on Facebook and came across this. Interesting. http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-trade-series-ex-21-scroll-saw-101772

Thanks for clearing that up. I have watched this series until my eyes fell out. I keep referring back to them too. Very good stuff. I even went so far as to download them and keep them in a video file. I use Windows Movie Maker to "stitch" them all together into a movie. Thanks again though.

Thanks again Kevin. I am going to do just that tomorrow.

Which Kevin are you referring to? I see we have two here. Also, if you can point me in the direction on youtube, I'd be very appreciative.

I mounted mine to my workbench which is separate from my saw. No vibration at all. Works great.

Item number 60643. Call your store and verify stock. Here is a pic.

Thanks Kevin. I was thinking of that too. I'll give that a try. I just hope that it will all "tighten" up the bearing too as it seems that maybe the aluminum has stretched and allowed the bearing to float in the hole. That could set up some vibration so tightening it up by swedging the hole a bit may keep it from moving around. Thanks for all your help. It's nice to have someone who has been through it to suggest stuff. Ray

That would a long drive for me Randy. I could buy a new saw for less. Ha! R

Thanks. I have read that website many times and I have also done the turning of that rod both in and out. I was trying to get the tension on the arm increased and also to take care of the knock sound. After doing some real research this afternoon, I found that the two pieces that we contacting each other were the two that I mentioned above. Tomorrow, I'm going to remove some metal and give them the clearance they need. I did also find that the sealed bearing is not tight within the end of the drive rod. It moves in and out. I pushed it back in all the way and within a few seconds of running, it had walked it's way back out almost to the point of failure. Like I said, I'm going to try to tighten it up with a paper shim and press it back in to see if that fixes it. I did find the ereplacementparts part mentioned for the $30+ dollars. It is actually cheaper from DeWalt but by the time I add the shipping cost on, the two places are about the same. I guess I'll have to order a new one if my "fix" doesn't work out. I think it comes with new bearings on both ends so that's a plus. Little by little, I'm finding all the problems that need fixing. I sure hope I end up with a good usable saw when it is all done. I'm also going to bid on a used Hegner on eBay that may become my "second" saw. Ray

I just got my latest sale catalog today and they are on sale for $39.99. If you don't have a store near you they will ship one from their warehouse. Ray There is an LED replacement bulb that fits this light.

Can you tell me if that sealed bearing on the large end of the connecting rod is a pressed in bearing or is it just sort of floating in the rod? I just found that bearing to be "floating" in the connecting rod. I thought it was supposed to be a press fit. I'm going to do some more research but I thought I'd ask you seeing as how you have replaced both pieces. If it supposed to be a press fit, I'm going to try to shim the bearing with some paper and try pressing it back into the connecting rod. I also found some of the "racket" on the upper are out where the arm tension rod goes through the arm. It is hammering on one of the blade arms. I don't know how to explain it but in the diagram it is part number 10 and rod number 24 hitting together. I'm going to file the arm down a bit and give it more clearance. I have also filed down the under side of part number 80 to give it some clearance. I am going to get all the vibration and noise out of this saw yet. I would be curious to know if that bearing is supposed to float in the connecting rod though. Thanks for your help. Ray

I just found out that Woodcraft stores sells them and they are priced pretty well unless you want them by the gross. Ray

Go to Harbor Freight if there is one near you. They have a very nice lighted magnifier with articulating arm for $40 or less. I love mine. I hope this helps. Also, I was having the same trouble as you with these tiny blades and instead of trying to hold them in my fingers and guide the blade into the holder, I use a pencil magnet to hold the blade in it's correct position and insert it into the holder. It works really well. Ray

From what I can see in the pics, it has all the same stuff as the new ones do. I see the variable speed dial and control housing and the tension lever looks the same too. R

Can any of you who have this saw tell me what if any changes have been made since 1999. There is a good deal available on one that is like new but it's that year of manufacture. I might go for it if not much has changed. Ray

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/tls/d/like-new-dewalt-scroll-saw/6361029004.html Type 1 like new condition.

https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/tls/d/rbi-hawk-scroll-bm-26/6309887428.html This looks like a good deal for those interested in a Hawk.

Don';t feel bad. I still have trouble remembering to tension the blade. It's called having too much stuff on our minds anymore. We need more RAM memory.

Kevin, that's not the connecting rod that he is talking about. The one I think he means is the one that has large and and a small end and is only about 2 inches long. It has two different sized bearings in it and looks like a connecting rod in an engine. It connects to the motors shaft and then to that vertical lever that drives both long arms that you pictured. It's number 82 in this pic.

It appears to me that you are filtering the air after it has been through the squirrel cage. Why not make a couple of slide in brackets on the inlet side of the blower that you can just drop a furnace filter into? I would think you'd want to filter the air prior to entry into the blower. JMHO. Ray

The buckets that come with the DD are much easier to remove than a standard bucket lid. They are not tough at all. It comes with two buckets but I'm not sure why except maybe to mount it to the vac but I am only using one. I have a spare now but I probably will never use it.

Here are just a few that I found

I just did a google search and there are many out there. Ray