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OCtoolguy

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Everything posted by OCtoolguy

  1. Looks great. A fun cut.
  2. Welcome and remember to have fun.
  3. Maybe they were referring to a $100 blll.
  4. Through the generosity of Les's wife Faye, I now have his Stewmac base that you are speaking about. I hold it in my hands and it thrills me to know that he held it also. I dearly miss him.
  5. Gene, a long while back, I was trying to cut a 3-D table sitter for my wife. I was using some 1 3/4" fir that I had laying around. It was more of a practice thing so I was using junk wood. I was having a terrible time cutting it. When I posted my woes I was told to get some skip tooth or super skip tooth blades. So I ordered a gross of them from Denny. What a difference they made. They clear the kerf of the built-up dust so much better and as Larry said, you don't need or want the reverse teeth on these cuts. I did still use #5 blades but in the super skips instead.
  6. Thx Gene. They had exactly what I needed ib 3 pks. I bought 2 pks to make the $17 UPS chg worthwhile. I've never used them before. Something to remember.
  7. I'll give them a try. Thx!
  8. Yes, nothing in either my size or cherry. Thanks.
  9. I have a pattern right now that requires 2 pcs of veneer that are about 10 x10" ea. I can't find anything that is in my budget. The cost of goods is not the problem. It's the shipping. I've been thinking about buying a piece of pressure sensitive 2ft x 8ft but can't find it in Cherry. I'm high-centered until I can get some. I will not be held hostage to shipping costs.
  10. Definitely 2 different saws. I'm still not totally comfortable with my Hegner, but learning.
  11. This hyper inflation is killing everybody. I sure hope the voters get smart in 24.
  12. They are my go-to Paul. The cost of shipping has stopped me more than once though. I'd drive out there but the cost of gas has also stopped me. If I can put together an order large enough to warrant the expense, I'll head out there. I always come home with a box or two of cut-offs that are interesting. I even scored some 1/8" BB ply cut-offs a while back. Believe it or not, somebody ordered some ply and one they were done cutting it to order, there were a half dozen 12" ends from the 4 x 8 foot sheets. I have made good use of that stuff.
  13. Check this out. It looks like an easy way to get started. https://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2023/07/layered-basket-scroll-saw-pattern.html
  14. I appreciate the compliments but it was shown as an example. Thanks all.
  15. You sound like me. I hate being limited to projects that are 6" wide. And plywood is not my material of choice. Right now I need some 1/4" thick and 1/2" thick hardwood 10 x 10" so I'll be gluing up my own.
  16. What type do you want to make? I've made both. The stacked type require far less sanding. The type that are cut at an angle are more challenging and more sanding is involved. If you let us know which you are interested in we can be of more help. I bought a book by the name of "Boxes, Bowls, & Baskets" that I've found useful. My first basket was a stacked one, shown here.
  17. I agree. When the shipping cost exceeds the cost of the goods, they are making it off the shipping.
  18. Not sure where you are but I bought mine from Cherokee Wood Products here in So Cal. Not disappointed.
  19. Perry, if you make a mistake, you can click on the 3 tiny dots up in the upper right corner and there is an "edit" option. Saves reposting.
  20. I think we can all agree that every scroll saw has some vibration. It's just the nature of the beast. Both of my Ex's are very smooth running saws but they each have a spot that is not good to use. I have never run any of my saws wide open because to me, it's just not comfortable. I am usually just under 3/4.
  21. The switch on the power strip would remain in the on position. No need to turn it off.
  22. Plug everything into a power strip and plug the power strip into your foot switch. When you step on your foot switch it will power the power strip which in turn will power whatever is plugged into it.
  23. Oops! I forgot about that. Thanks Dan.
  24. This is sort of what I ended up doing but not to quite this extreme. I just stopped pulling down on the upper arm to take the slack out of the mechanism. I still broke some blades though so this might be what I will do in the future. I had no idea that it was okay to use the blade this loose prior to tensioning. I'm so used to working with #5 blades. I had no experience with these tiny blades so it was a learning situation for sure. Now, I know better. Thanks for posting this video.
  25. I have my way of doing it without the aid of light. I can see that your way would make my way easier though. I use a Dremel counter sink bit in a pin vise and "auger" the holes on the under side and then take a felt marker pen and dot the holes. I'm not sure what drill size you are working with but I was using a very tiny number drill just big enough for a 2/0 blade to fit up through. Frustrating at times but doable.
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