OCtoolguy

That's what I was thinking too.

10 hours ago, sheri said: Looking for blade clamp for delta scroll saw 40 150 15" The part no is 40-155 Or a substitute part that will fit. Sheri, from what I have read those have been unavailable for quite some time. I don't know if there is a workaround or not. Sorry.

That knob on top at rear is NOT for tensioning. It is only to adjust the arm height so that arm is parallel to table. Leave it alone once set. Tensioning is automatically set once blade is installed and lever is flipped. I have 2 Excaliburs and they both have Pegas clamps.

This is a very old post. I doubt anybody will follow up on it.

Very nice Dan.

Why do they want something so difficult to read? Had to ask?

Well said J.T. please add my name to it. Thank you Steve for all you do and have done for the world of scrollsawing.

Very nice. I think I'd like to try one. Yours is outstanding.

Try it without the foot switch. Eliminate that possibility.

I remember seeing my name on my military fatigue shirts in boot camp. No great. Lol.

I would try a 5 to see if it works. 7 is getting pretty big for tight turns.

Keep up the great work Tyler. You are an asset to the hobby.

I was referring to painting gnomes like Joe's. NOT intarsia. I have no desire to ever get into all that sanding.

I shy away from anything that requires painting. And I tire of doing too many of anything.

Any shirtpocket pencil magnet will do. As long as it is flat on the end. Mine just happens to be an extendible telescopic one.

I keep coming back to how I hold the tiny blades. Instead of trying to use my fat stubby fingers, I use a small telescopic magnet with a flat face. Once you determine up and down and know which edge does the cutting, stick one of the flat sides to the magnet. Now you have a nice manageable handle to guide and hold the blade. Try it. It works great.

I bought a used drill press a few years ago ans it came on that exact same stand. I now have a very study 2x4 top on it with my 12in disc sander and Delta planer all mounted on a HF rolling platform base out on my driveway. Very heavy. No worries about thieves.

I just wanted to wish all the Mother's on the Village, a very Happy Mother's Day. None of us would be here without you. Thanks for all you do and have done. We all love you.

You and Kevin disagreeing on things is no surprise. Lol

Well done. A beautiful set. It will be appreciated, I'm sure.

I use mine exactly as you suggested. My router table is a Bosch in the enclosed cabinet. I'm 6' 0".

On 4/30/2025 at 3:44 PM, Scrappile said: There is always talk on here about spiral blades, some like, some hate. I think a lot of people are thinking in terms of you use them, that is all you can use. I use them often as well as straight blades. When I first started scrolling a lot, I used only spiral blades, mainly because I wanted to do intricate pictures. I watched videos of Charles Dearing scrolling, and that is what he used. So I thought that was what had to be used. And it was pretty much all he could use, His pictures were measured in so many feet x so many feet. Anyway, after some time, I decided to try straight blades. I agree that they give a cleaner cut. So long story shortened. I now use both. There are times when straight blades are best. The last picture, I did, the pheasant one, I used both. Sometimes I used both to cut out one piece. In the picture below, I show some of the places where I switched to spiral blades. In real small cuts, I want to shape as opposed to just drilling a hole, because a drilled hole looks like a drilled hole. I do not like that. I circled where I used a spiral because where there were small cuts, and using a straight blade would mean having to move the wood a lot to make a very small cut. I put lines with arrows pointing to where I switched to spirals, because again more convenient for making the jagged lines for hair, feathers, or tree branches. There are times when you do not want a clean, smooth cut. Instead of having to turn the wood for every little bump in or out, you can just slightly move the wood side to side. One other place (not required in this Picture) that I switch to spirals is to increase the kerf when veining I first cut the vein line with a straight blade, then switched to a spiral and cut it again. The spiral will follow the straight blade cut if you let it do its own thing and don't try to force the cut. The reason I make this post, mainly for newer scrollers to understand that it is not either/or. They both have a good purpose. This is my opinion only. Take it for whatever it is worth. This method makes you more of an artist than just a scroller. You have your own technique. I never gave it much thought before but now you have opened my eyes. Up till now I have not used spirals but now I will.

I have 3 saws and have all 3 set flush, both top and bottom clamps.

You guys are whetting my creative juices. I've been looking for something new. I got into the Arduino thing a few years ago but when I found a forum that seemed like a good one, it was mostly very young kids who knew a whole lot more than me and were not able to speak fluently with a newbie. I'd love to get back into it with someone old and ignorant like myself. It would be fun to learn together and create microprocessor projects. It's a very inexpensive hobby. Basic tools and a soldering station are about all you need.

Kevin, your creativity and ingenuity always amaze me and inspire new ideas for projects. Thank you.