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OCtoolguy

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Everything posted by OCtoolguy

  1. I bought mine from Harbor Freight. I have 2. They work great. I did have to convert them to LED but I think they come that way now. About $40 or so.
  2. Just remember, without pics, we won't believe anything you say. LOL. We DO love pics.
  3. On 1/3/2025 at 5:29 AM, BadBob said: I made some layered projects for the first time. This was a significant learning experience as I have never added a backer to my projects. The first ones were from Sheila Landry Designs (sk436-layered-halloween-potion-bottles). I didn't finish them all because I ran out of time. The layers were not all the same size and required a significant amount of sanding to get the edges smooth. At first, I thought I must have messed up the patterns, so I went back and checked them. The ones I received were a different size. Next, I tried a larger pattern, a sea turtle. Because of its size, this one presented me with a gluing issue discussed earlier in the forum. Very nice work!
  4. 22 hours ago, Wichman said: I keep a small collection of construction paper in various colors, I can slip them behind the item and get a feel for what I think works best. Exactly what I was going to suggest.
  5. I use a lot of mahogany.
  6. Well done, very creative. I am a Banksey fan too.
  7. I have a small plastic tub with lid. I poured a gallon of Watxo oil in it 2-3 years ago and it seems to be fine. I just dip and hang the project.
  8. I've purchased from them twice and both times all was smooth. A bit longer than I had hoped but for the price, worth the wait.
  9. You might find this little video interesting. It's by that same fellow only on Youtube.
  10. That's beautiful, Paul. Great work!
  11. Does it vibrate at all speeds? All scroll saws will have some vibration at varying speeds. I'd probably try going to the basics. Strip anything off that might get in the way. Put a blade in and adjust it. Turn it on slow and increase the speed. See where the vibration seems to be. Try putting the main frame back to where it was. If that fixes the problem, you're done. If not try putting the motor back to where it was. I'm assuming there are paint marks to go by. I'm thinking that the motor is the problem. It has to run true. Also, there is a Brit on Facebook who is an expert on restoring Hegners. He might be able to help. He responds fast to posts. I can't recall his site name but I'll try to find it. Edit: Found it, he goes by "Hegner, A Saw Subject". He buys, restores and sells Hegner saws.
  12. That's the guy on Guinette site.
  13. Thanks Paul. I noticed it too. A ton of activity all of a sudden and it seems like quite a few newbies. I love it when it looks like the hobby is renewing itself. I was new here 10 years ago and have learned so much. There are a couple of great friends who have passed on so that is sad but there is always new blood. And I second what you said to Travis. We ALL have him to thank for this truly wonderful site. Thank you Travis. Happy New Year to all. Stay safe, warm and somewhat sober. I'll be sipping my rum laced eggnog. I love that stuff.
  14. Without reading all the posts, I'd suggest going on Youtube and searching out Gwinette Woodworkers Guild on that site. There are a few good videos on that site regarding compound or 3-D cutting. It's not difficult but does require having everything lined up correctly. Good luck. It's fun. I did this bowl for my wife using a pattern from John Nelson but with a few changes. The 20 side panels were cut from 3/4" x 1 1/2" mahogany.
  15. The Hegner saws are very finicky about the screws/bolts holding everything together. If one of your motor bolts is stripped out, I'd either drill and tap to the next size or Heli-coil the hole back to original. I know for fact that if you loosen the 3 bolts that hold the saw to the stand, there is an order in which you should tighten them to avoid vibration. I experimented with mine and it is true. If I recall, you have to tighten the two front bolts nearest the operator and then snug the 3rd at the rear of the saw. As for the insert, if you feel a need to have a zero clearance insert, just take a playing card, slit it half way through and then tape it to the table top. If it gets "wollered" out, just put a new card in it's place.
  16. My go-to is Cherokee Wood Products here in So. Calif. I have bought from Ocooch also before I found Cherokee. The fellow who runs their online sales is Chris and you can get custom milling for little to no extra cost if you wait for them to run what you need. Their prices are right in line too.
  17. My first suggestion is always check around and see what used saws are available in your area. I have never bought a new saw. I have always purchased top line used saws for very reasonable prices. Where are you located? If you must buy new, then there are not many in that price range. But, Harbor Freight has just brought out their copy of the Excalibur/Pegas that is getting good reviews so far. They are very new though so there is not much feedback yet as to their durability. If you want a tried and true saw, watch for deals on the Dewalt 788. It has been around a very long time with few changes. They are built in Taiwan I believe and seem to hold up well. Good luck with whatever you buy. Let us all know what you end up with and welcome to the Village.
  18. J.T. just summed up the advice I've heard. I started out with a sample pack of FD blades. I had a piece of birch plywood and a butterfly pattern glued to it. I still have that piece hanging in my shop window. The 3 most important words are, practice, practice and practice.
  19. Merry Christmas Marge. I envy you the weather.
  20. Just a Christmas wish to all my Scrollsaw Village friends. Thank you all for your kindness.
  21. Merry Christmas!
  22. Same to you Jimmie.
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