OCtoolguy

UPDATE!! I decided to call the Little Machine Shop and did get some info. But before pulling the trigger on a new chuck, I wanted to make sure that my problem was actually the chuck. Anyway, long story short, I took the chuck off the d/p and cleaned it up and oiled it so that it operated like it should. Then I mounted a dial indicator to the d/p table and did a runout check on the quill. About .003-.005. Not bad. So, I cleaned up the quill and the inside of the chuck and re-mounted it. I did another check and it is still in about that same range. The quill bearings are a little noisy. Or maybe it's the belt/pulleys that are making a bit of noise. I found that my factory chuck will tighten down on a number 58 bit and that seems to be what I use the most. So that problem is solved. Then I decided to take a good look at the keyless adapter that mounts in the chuck to accept all the number bits down to an 80. That's where my problem is. It has a lot of runout. I took it all apart and cleaned it and removed a few burrs that were on the inside of it where the 3 jaws slide. It's better but by no means close enough that I will use it for any fine work. I guess you get what you pay for in that category. If I recall it was under $10. I think my problem is solved. I will stick with what I have and see how it goes. I'm not sure I could make it better enough to warrant the $40 plus dollars it was going to cost for a new keyless chuck. Thanks to everybody once again for beint the fount of information that you all are. My family!

We have downsized to indoors only and very little of it.

Put this info in the "resources" section.

I have one of those and it wobbles. I'm replacing the chuck to eliminate the need for it. I may also replace the bearings in the quill.

I have no personal knowledge but most of these saws may tolerate an adapter.

Question--those chucks all say 1/32" to 1/2" or 5/8". Shouldn't they say zero closed? I want to be able to use the tiny number drill bits.

There was a discussion going on regarding the tiny number drill bits and the subject of drill chucks came up. I think the chuck on my drill press is out of round and it also doesn't close down to zero opening. So I have decided to replace the chuck but when I go to doing my due diligence I'm overwhelmed at all the choices and price ranges of chucks. So, I'm turning to my more learned cohorts here on the Village. I know some of you have gone through this already so I'm asking where you bought your chucks, what brand, price range etc. I've found them from about $40 and up to over a hundred. Somebody on here said they bought theirs for about $30 but I couldn't find any for that price. Anyway, if anybody can point me in the right direction, I need a JT33 taper chuck. Brand could be either a Jacobs or a Jet or ?? Thanks in advance for any assistance.

@John B it's funny that you said that. I've been playing an old game on my PC that I had forgotten all about. It's called "Sokoban" and it was from back when DOS was what everything was written in. Anyway, it's now been updated to run on Windows GUI. It's a warehouse man whose job it is to move and load containers into a warehouse. As each level proceeds, the job gets harder and harder and becomes a matter of how to move the containers, in what order and where/how to stack them in the warehouse. So, with what you said about taking hours to think through a problem prior to making the first move, it is very much the same thing in this game. I've had to learn to "think outside the box" and had to start over many times on each level. If you are interested, do a search for Sokoban free download. It's really addictive.

Just curious Kevin, do you ever take the time to actually cut or make something that you just want to do for yourself? I know you have all kinds of experience with the different saws, woods etc but I never see anything that you make just for the fun of making it. Something not for sale.

I see you posted this clear back on September 27. I wonder why I'm just now seeing it. I watch SSV almost hourly for new additions. Where has this been hiding?

Badbob, it prevents metal to metal, is a bearing surface and also provides enough friction to keep the tension lever from turning on its own. A very important part.

Have you given Inkscape a try? I'm still learning it but I have done some text on it and it's fairly easy. Steve Good has a few tutorials on what you are trying to do if I'm not mistaken.

Fix both of them. Or am I just not understanding? If you MUST have a new one, shop the office supply stores. I've found that an office chair for me is just right for my low sitting and my tall shop stool is best at my workbench.

That's amazing Charley. How about more pics of your entire setup? I'd love to see it in it's entirety.

Dave, I've researched this a small bit because I wanted to buy a taller pneumatic mechanism for my stool. I have one that I bought from some mail order company a few years back and it still works fine but when I had my Hawk I wanted a taller stool. Anyway, to my point, you can buy a new piston assy for yours and keep using the same stool. Not expensive at all. You just need to get the measurements on what you have now. Amazon if I'm not wrong.

Joe, it's been 7 years for me. Not a day goes by that I'm not thankful I found scrolling and Scrollsaw Village. All of the great folks here are like family for me.

Yes.

That's going to be really neat Mark. I love the G scale trains. When we had our Hallmark shop in Colorado Springs, we used to put up a train in our front window every years. The customers loved it. We had a tiny teddy bear riding in one of the open cars and one day we noticed the bear was gone and there was a baby bottle riding in the car instead. We had to hunt down the little culprit and do a swap. But, it was all a fun thing. I had a Z gauge setup in our jewelry case too. Needless to say, our Hallmark store was not the conventional one that Hallmark wanted but we never buckled under to them. We did it our way as the song goes.

Thanks Charley, I learned something from this. I never knew that it worked that way. I thought I had to "combine" or "flatten" in order to print them out. Thanks.

Very interesting Roberta. Thanks for the pics. Be sure to show us a finished one. Can you share the pattern?

Happy Thanksgiving to all of my wonderful Scroll Saw Village friends. I love you all!

@Roberta Moreton, I too would love to see your project. Pics in different stages would be great. I love anything related to boxes bowls and baskets. Especially with inlay.

I've heard of folks @charleyL cutting the stop clean off but in looking at mine I thought just grinding about a third of it would give it plenty more height and still have a good solid stop. I haven't done it to my saw and probably won't as I've not seen the need. I do need to replace the rubber bumper though.

Dave, have you done any work to the upper arm stop? That's an easy fix for getting the arm up. I don't recommend cutting it all the way off though. When it goes up, it's nice that it has some sort of a stop.

Paul, I'm not sure what the OP had in mind but after having both saws, I would have trouble picking one of the other. The Hegner is a tank for sure and is the scroll saw that I got used to always seeing being demo'd at the wood shows. I ended up buying a Hawk back in 1985 at one of those shows. I can't remember why I bought it but I just did. I never did use it and ended up selling it to a neighbor who still has it but has never used it. That saw has zero hours on it. I think for me it was the hard to change blades and the 2 speed belt driven mechanism. But it's so long ago, I'm not sure. Anyway, to my point. Both saws are great and are very much alike in many ways. I would not recommend one over the other. I think if a person buys either one and learns to use it as you have yours, they will have thousands of hours of use out of it with very little coinage out of the pocket. If a person is short of workspace, I highly recommend the Hegner as it has the smallest footprint of any of the saws that I know of.