OCtoolguy

"Leakers"?????

Changed Products to Blades, Tools, Clock Parts, Other Changed Shipping Location to Los Angeles, Ca.

If you can live with just HS bits, I just found that OttoFrei.com has them in 10 packs for $5.50 plus tax and mailing. I'm ordering 4 packs of 56, 57, 59, 60 and it's going to run me $30. Qtena.com has cobalt for $12.95 per 10 pack.

I'll bet your table is just a tad off center. Either by the wrong mounting or a factory defect. Either way, it should be somewhat adjustable.

This is something that I inquired about a while back. I don't have the problem that you have as mine is fairly well centered in the table slot. I was just wondering about centering the blade in the clamps so they are planar if that is the correct word. Regular scroll saws have set screws that can be moved right or left on both clamps in order to get the blade so that it is running straight up and down, top to bottom but on the Hegners you have to rely on the clamps finding a "happy" place on both ends and hope they more or less center up. I've got the Quick clamp on both of my saws and they both seem to cut ok. Jim, is there any way to loosen your table and maybe adjust it so that the blade is centered? I've never checked mine to see if there is any "slop" in the mounting holes. That may solve your problem.

Yes, it's a much better situation for you. A worthwhile trip for sure. $5/gal here and never a pleasant journey anywhere until you get out of town and that takes at least a half day. Too crowded.

I love it Charley!

Thanks Kevin. That's great advice and I will try it tomorrow. The little 8" press went a while back. I bought a 10" one for $125 with a stand. Then I put my little 8" one on C/L for $125 and sold it right away. I only had $45 in the 8" one. So, once again, I'm ahead. This d/p is in very good shape and I'm happy with it now that I know everything is good on it.

Have you given any thought to using Ken?

It would cost $50 here to buy that same 10 gallons so the savings would have to be pretty good. Wear and tear on the car and me the driver has to factor into it too. I'm getting ready to place an order with Cherokee Woods and the shipping for everything I'm ordering will be $17. For that, I'm not going to fight the traffic.

UPDATE!! I decided to call the Little Machine Shop and did get some info. But before pulling the trigger on a new chuck, I wanted to make sure that my problem was actually the chuck. Anyway, long story short, I took the chuck off the d/p and cleaned it up and oiled it so that it operated like it should. Then I mounted a dial indicator to the d/p table and did a runout check on the quill. About .003-.005. Not bad. So, I cleaned up the quill and the inside of the chuck and re-mounted it. I did another check and it is still in about that same range. The quill bearings are a little noisy. Or maybe it's the belt/pulleys that are making a bit of noise. I found that my factory chuck will tighten down on a number 58 bit and that seems to be what I use the most. So that problem is solved. Then I decided to take a good look at the keyless adapter that mounts in the chuck to accept all the number bits down to an 80. That's where my problem is. It has a lot of runout. I took it all apart and cleaned it and removed a few burrs that were on the inside of it where the 3 jaws slide. It's better but by no means close enough that I will use it for any fine work. I guess you get what you pay for in that category. If I recall it was under $10. I think my problem is solved. I will stick with what I have and see how it goes. I'm not sure I could make it better enough to warrant the $40 plus dollars it was going to cost for a new keyless chuck. Thanks to everybody once again for beint the fount of information that you all are. My family!

We have downsized to indoors only and very little of it.

Put this info in the "resources" section.

I have one of those and it wobbles. I'm replacing the chuck to eliminate the need for it. I may also replace the bearings in the quill.

I have no personal knowledge but most of these saws may tolerate an adapter.

Question--those chucks all say 1/32" to 1/2" or 5/8". Shouldn't they say zero closed? I want to be able to use the tiny number drill bits.

There was a discussion going on regarding the tiny number drill bits and the subject of drill chucks came up. I think the chuck on my drill press is out of round and it also doesn't close down to zero opening. So I have decided to replace the chuck but when I go to doing my due diligence I'm overwhelmed at all the choices and price ranges of chucks. So, I'm turning to my more learned cohorts here on the Village. I know some of you have gone through this already so I'm asking where you bought your chucks, what brand, price range etc. I've found them from about $40 and up to over a hundred. Somebody on here said they bought theirs for about $30 but I couldn't find any for that price. Anyway, if anybody can point me in the right direction, I need a JT33 taper chuck. Brand could be either a Jacobs or a Jet or ?? Thanks in advance for any assistance.

@John B it's funny that you said that. I've been playing an old game on my PC that I had forgotten all about. It's called "Sokoban" and it was from back when DOS was what everything was written in. Anyway, it's now been updated to run on Windows GUI. It's a warehouse man whose job it is to move and load containers into a warehouse. As each level proceeds, the job gets harder and harder and becomes a matter of how to move the containers, in what order and where/how to stack them in the warehouse. So, with what you said about taking hours to think through a problem prior to making the first move, it is very much the same thing in this game. I've had to learn to "think outside the box" and had to start over many times on each level. If you are interested, do a search for Sokoban free download. It's really addictive.

Just curious Kevin, do you ever take the time to actually cut or make something that you just want to do for yourself? I know you have all kinds of experience with the different saws, woods etc but I never see anything that you make just for the fun of making it. Something not for sale.

I see you posted this clear back on September 27. I wonder why I'm just now seeing it. I watch SSV almost hourly for new additions. Where has this been hiding?

Badbob, it prevents metal to metal, is a bearing surface and also provides enough friction to keep the tension lever from turning on its own. A very important part.

Have you given Inkscape a try? I'm still learning it but I have done some text on it and it's fairly easy. Steve Good has a few tutorials on what you are trying to do if I'm not mistaken.

Fix both of them. Or am I just not understanding? If you MUST have a new one, shop the office supply stores. I've found that an office chair for me is just right for my low sitting and my tall shop stool is best at my workbench.

That's amazing Charley. How about more pics of your entire setup? I'd love to see it in it's entirety.