JustLarry

You can find Arpop's patterns at this link. https://web.archive.org/web/20190725135108/http://fssp-arpop.blogspot.com/ Larry

Give this link a try. https://web.archive.org/web/20190725135108/http://fssp-arpop.blogspot.com/ Larry

One could plug the power strip to the foot switch and plug the saw, vac, clock, fan, etc into the power strip. Just make sure the power strip has an overload breaker in it. Larry Looks like Ray and I were thinking the same thing at the same time.

https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/gallery/image/13130-lifepng/?context=new This will take you to the pattern for download. Larry

Outstanding work.

Here is link to post made on Nov 15 concerning this same issue. https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/47791-about-lesleys-patterns-flying-dutchman-scroll-saw-bladeshttpswwwscrollsawbladespatternscom/ Larry

Ray, I had my crow well done, heavy on the hot sauce to get a good sting out of it. Larry

After reading info at Rick's Scrollsaw, I found that the upper arm can be hitting against the bottom of the plate. That is where removing some of the plate bottom can help. Larry

Rick, You are correct. The picture in parts breakdown is deceptive and information I posted is wrong. Just got through looking at my 40-690 which is same a the 788. Larry Now to make corrections to my posts above.

The tension rod sits under the cover plate as the picture shows. The tension rod sits on the cover plate. Here is copy of instruction for adjusting tension rod. Note instruction shows when part #80 is removed you will see the tension rod and a small bearing sleeve..... 1) Tension Rod Adjustment. Referring to #24 (Rod, Draw), it threads into the Wedge #23. Typically, it needs one or two more turns (clockwise) to enable sufficient tension with the tension lever. In order to get to the rod (it is pretty easy, just takes a couple of minutes) Take off the plastic cover (#71) by taking out the 4 screws (#44). Just loosen the whole assembly and move it out of the way. Remove part #26 and part #80. You will see the tension rod and a small bearing sleeve on the "L" end of the tension rod. Set the sleeve aside. The rod is flexible enough to turn it without removing anything else. I suggest one CLOCKWISE turn, partially reassemble, test the tension and take up another turn only if necessary. I set mine to get proper tension at a 3 to 3-1/2 setting on the tension lever gage.

It could be the upper arm is hitting the bottom of the cover plate (Lid part#80). It could be the tension rod is hitting the cover plate (Lid part#80). Rick's Scrollsaw https://scrollsaws.com/ gives information on fixing this: Scroll down in the left column to Dewalt Tune-up. Then in new screen scroll down past the parts diagram and picture of blade and table hole and you will see pictures for removal and repair of the lid. This did correct knocking on my saw. Larry

And with Jello, you have to cut real fast in hot weather. Larry

The first of many. Very good.

You can do it. Thanks for all that you do for the Village. Larry

Here is a list of bearings I copied from a post several years ago. I re-greased mine (Delta40-690) after making the list and so far, so good. HK0609 Needle Bearing 6x10x9) 12 ea HK0810 Needle Bearing 8x12x10) 2 ea HK1412 Needle Bearing 14x20x12) 2 ea Also link to a good video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x42jZgEAUwM Larry

Here is link to discussion on the nailer from Dec. https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/41245-23-ga-pin-nailer/?tab=comments#comment-448482 I have used a Harbor Freight brand for several years. Larry

MIke's Workshop also shows the bit size for each of type FD blades sold. You can probably find a chart for other brand of blades by going to web sites where they are sold. I use the largest bit I can to make inserting the blades easier. I mostly use the #50 range of bits. I also, use the dremel for the small bits. Larry

I use the Dremel plunge router attachment, also. Larry

I use Ocooch Hard woods. https://ocoochhardwoods.com/scroll-saw-lumber/ Larry

This is what I use. https://www.amazon.com/Change-Keyless-Universal-Replacement-Dremel/dp/B07CVDWTNV/ref=pd_lpo_469_t_0/135-6056147-2917511?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07CVDWTNV&pd_rd_r=e1eb051d-1b46-408e-b324-a902ecea2888&pd_rd_w=RcIKR&pd_rd_wg=RHUoz&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=8SR3DKBM24EQMAXA4XKV&psc=1&refRID=8SR3DKBM24EQMAXA4XKV

When you are ready to replace, you can use loc-line. Less cost than buying the DW replacement. https://www.loc-line.com/products/14-system/

Ocooch hardwoods has MDF core plywood in 1/4 inch https://ocoochhardwoods.com/plywood/ Larry

Ya'll did very well.

Yep. Been there. Done that. On your redo, cut the last two letters first. Larry

Tony, Two more videos on the Diamond. Larry