JustLarry

To find the best deal, I usually compare shipping cost, bulk discount, and cost per item. Sometimes the lower cost per item looses value when you factor in shipping. I still like the $3.00 shipping from Mike's. Larry

Oh ya! I've been a CPAPer for 10+ years now. Larry

I use the CPAP tube to pull dust from the top of the table. (Where is the tumbs up symbol when you need it?) Larry

I have been using my 40-690 (the 788 clone) with the tight arm since I received it 5 years ago. It it gets loose, I tighten the pivot bolt a tad. Larry

Yep, the scroll saw ain't just for wood. Larry

I can rightfully say I have never made a mistake when scrolling. I have however, made many unplanned modifications to the pattern I am cutting and from those unplanned modifications I have made a considerable donation to the world wide designer firewood collection. I fix or reuse what I can - we are in a burn ban here. Larry

Around $850.00 according to this article I found. Came out in Nov 2012. https://www.woodshopnews.com/news/general-offers-limited-edition-excalibur-scroll-saw Larry

I was standing at the shop door with my hand on the door knob - could not remember if I was going in or coming out. I keep the blades I am using away from the others. Larry

Dan, You really put the "WOW" into that desk. Very Nice. Larry

Releasing tension may help the tires from flattening out and possibly remove strain of wheel bearings and connecting shaft? Sometimes I release, sometimes I do not. So far I have not seen any results from either one, but I have only had my band saw for maybe 10 years? Larry I forgot to say I like the sign.

Check out this link: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=oil+water+flexible+coolant+pipe&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aoil+water+flexible+coolant+pipe Larry

Larry here. Added Just so I would not be confused with the other ones. Larry

I was going to tell you - heat a little bit warmer and push a whole lot harder. However, since you got it on I won't tell you to heat a little bit warmer and push a whole lot harder. I use a hair dryer to heat the joints. There is a tool available to snapping the joints together. Larry

I have an adjustable wrench that has an inch scale on one side and a metric scale on the other side?? I waste no time to figure out if the bolt head or nut is imperial or metric. I just put it on and adjust it to fit. Larry

Same way here. Then, after finishing, I go over the front of the piece with a piece of brown paper bag. Larry

This video will help with lots of fixes for the 788, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjgSKrlt7LE Larry

I posted this history on the FD spiral last February. Posted February 9, 2017 (edited) If My memory is correct and if I understand what I just looked up: Spiral Blades came first and are pretty much a flat blade that has been twisted into a spiral. Pretty much needed to use pliers to un-twist the end to get it to stay in the holders. hard to control - hard to get into holder but the best there was at the time. The Flat End Spiral was brought out (The flat end spiral - as stated above is not really flat. It is close to half spiral and half flat making it easier to get ready to place in the holders.) To bring about better control, The New Spiral Blade was developed several years ago and has teeth on both sides of the blade - a flat blade with teeth on both sides and twisted into a spiral. better control. Still has some twist on the ends. Sometimes I flatten the ends some and sometimes I put them in right out of the package. Spiral Reverse is latest design of the spiral. - spiral blades for all around cutting with reverse teeth on the bottom for a close to sand free finish. These just caught my interest. I use the new spiral. Have not tried the spiral reverse but will have to give them a try. Larry

The 4 stores in my area have it - at least their web sites show it there. Larry

Sometime back I needed some dowels from red cedar. Cut a blank, chucked in in my battery drill, grabbed a sanding and held the pad around the wood with drill running. After a little bit I put a leather glove on the sanding hand and continued on. Needed 4 12 inchers. Worked fairly well. Larry

I sit in a comfortable office chair. Larry

I also use anti-seize compound on the screw treads. I put it on using a toothpick - just a very small amount then wipe it around the treads with a paper towel or rag. Too much will let the screws come loose while sawing - yes I did this. The anti-seize is made for use on steel bolts that screw into aluminum to prevent the steel treads from cutting into the aluminum treads. The tip of the screw that contacts the blade on the 788 and several other models can be removed for cleaning also. It is designed so the screw rotates within the tip and not against the blade. There is an o ring on the screw that holds the tip on. Pull it off, clean out the gunk and a very little oil and put tip back on. I clean the screws and tip area with a cloth dampened with denatured alcohol. Larry

Ray, FD blades are manufactured by Niqua in Germany. The UR is my go to blade. Here are links to blade info: https://forum.scrollsawer.com/forum/scroll-saw/tools-and-blades/31121-niqua-and-flying-dutchman-blades (Post #8 was made by Mike) http://www.hawkwoodworkingtools.com/ScrollSaw/ScrollSawParts/SS_BLADE_CHART_2-22-2013.pdf (scroll down for info on FD Blades) Larry .

I still get my blades from Mike's. Larry

I use the on /off foot switch on the scroll saw and use the dead man on my Dremel router when drilling starter holes. Both are HF models. I do not like to keep my foot in one position when I am scrolling. Larry

I posted this link Dec 16 at The Patriot Woodworker site. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Excalibur-120-Volt-21-in-Tilting-Head-Scroll-Saw-with-Stand-and-Foot-Switch-EX-21K/205414436?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|G|0|G-BASE-PLA-AllProducts|&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI08SanO2P2AIV1o2zCh2Dtgz-EAQYAiABEgIdG_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CM-Mn6Ptj9gCFVGtTwod5moDig Larry