Jump to content

Sycamore67

Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,955

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Sycamore67

  1. Sycamore67
    Citing smaller things on any saw can be hazardous. I saw an item by FastCap called the 10 Million Dollar Stick. It looks like a great safety tool for a miter saw. Cutting small pieces on the miter saw is dangerous as your fingers are close and a piece can be thrown at you.
  2. Sycamore67
    Also, you will need to buy a GOOD blade. It makes a huge difference in quality of cut.
  3. Sycamore67
    I have one on a 10" Rikon. It works ok and does help to make tighter turns. I keep the blade tension high when I use it with narrow blades. it is not a miracle worker.
  4. Sycamore67
    Reminds me of the famous1961 song - "My Boomerang Won't Come Back" Look it up on YouTube and have a listen !
  5. Sycamore67
    One way of avoiding snipe is to run boards end to end. You can also use a scrap board at the front and end. I do this and virtually eliminate snipe.
  6. Sycamore67
    I use the quick clamp with the lever. It makes tightening the blade easy. I love my Hegner and the fact that you can get parts even for old ones. However, the projects I do are typically in thicker wood. If I did fret work, I think I would not have a Hegner.
  7. Sycamore67
    I think a frame looks best and is what I would do. Fortunately, I can make my own frames but it takes some know how and equipment to make them. Buying frames can be expensive.
  8. Sycamore67
    It makes a difference in how hard it is to cut. The extra half inch makes it significantly more difficult to cut and get the finer details. With thick wood you have to go much slower and will wear out blades quicker.
  9. Sycamore67
    I use Danish oil in a Ziploc bag and then wipe excess off. I use two coats and let thoroughly dry. After dry, I use a Butchers wax and a buffing wheel on my drill press. Gives a nice look and feel to the pieces.
  10. Sycamore67
    I like it !
  11. Sycamore67
    You did a great job on the case and the bulldozer. Is the case red cedar or red oak?
  12. Sycamore67
    This is an interesting question and discussion. Rolf's graph is helpful. I do have a question about the graph. I think the width of the kerf is the important variable rather than the blade thickness. I have tried measuring the kerf and found it always to be a bit more than the blade. I measured kerf by taking a piece of wood about 2" long, cutting in two and remeasuring it. For anyone with a calculator---- I think that the angle equals the inverse sin of the kerf divided by board thickness.
  13. Sycamore67
    I think two legs in front will be much more stable for side to side movement.
  14. Sycamore67
    Thanks for doing this. I remember first starting out and it was tough to follow a line. I first practiced by following various lines starting with gentle curves and gradually going to sharper turns and eventually square corners. I think the snowflake maybe too difficult for a beginner. Along with patterns,it might be good to suggest various woods or blades to use. One of the biggest questions from newbie is what blade to use.
  15. Sycamore67
    I do enjoy the challenge and do not see it much different that cutting very intricate fretwork designs. I actually use some small things like the reindeer to enhance some Christmas ornaments. I have given away a few of these and are very well received.
  16. Sycamore67
    Why??? It is a challenge.
  17. Sycamore67
    Very nice and unique.
  18. Sycamore67
    Do you know the source for the pattern
  19. Sycamore67
    To each their own..... I think the Super Sharps work great on compound cuts. The ornaments were from 1-1/4" Maple, Cherry and Walnut. They cut well with no burning. Since I only made a few ornaments, I could care less the cost.
  20. Sycamore67
    It has been awhile since I have done much scroll saw work. I needed to practice a bit before making the ornaments. The pattern was from the Scroll Saw magazine. I made some out of 1-1/4" Cherry, Maple and Walnut. I cut them with either the FD Polar #5 or The PS Woods Super Sharps #5. Both of them are skip tooth blades and work well in thicker wood. The Super Sharps are more expensive but cut easier. They were finished with eagle can lacquer. I thought they were a bit plain so cut some 5/8" tall reindeer, stars or Christmas Trees. The small reindeer were cut from 1/8" Maple with a #3 FD Polar and a 3X magnifier lens. I made about 10 ornaments and gave most away to friends.
  21. Sycamore67
    I have one made by Offline with really good glass lens. It has less distortion than the cheaper ones and came with both a 3x and 5x lens. I use the 3x almost exclusively.
  22. Sycamore67
    Nice puzzle and difficult to solve.
  23. Sycamore67
    I really like your puzzles but would like to see a Dachshund one....please.
  24. Sycamore67
    I take all of mine with a cell phone. I recently got the Samsung S21 Ultra and the camera takes amazing pictures. However, the lighting and background are very important as pointed out by several others. I use a royal blue cloth like a bed sheet and have mounted adjustable cheap lights on the ceiling of my shop. I sometimes change between day light and soft white light led bulbs.
  25. Sycamore67
    When I read this thread, I come to one conclusion and that is use the right blade for each project. The Super Sharps are great for thicker wood and compound cuts. But they are expensive. Most of my cutting is for thicker wood and think the Super Sharps cut better than the FD Polar but both are skip tooth and designed to cut thicker wood. I read where some cut thicker wood with a UR type blade and do not understand. Of course, the same goes for cutting thin wood and ply woods with a Super Sharp or skip tooth blade. These projects cut best with Reverse or UR type blade. Using the right type blade will go a long way to improve the cut.
×
×
  • Create New...