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Sycamore67

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Everything posted by Sycamore67

  1. Sycamore67
    I often check prices at HomeDepot or others against Amazon. It is hard to beat Amazon one day delivery. For more expensive things on Amazon, I use CamelCamelCamel.com to look at price history. Prices there seem to change prices a lot over time and you can set a price alert for a certain level.
  2. Sycamore67
    I have gone out shopping for RO Sanders and found big differences in How my hand fits. My criteria are hand fit, vibration and dust control. The HF did not fit my hands but may be fine for others.
  3. Sycamore67
    I missed it maybe....what kind of wood are you using? The wood makes a huge difference.
  4. Sycamore67
    Nice but I wish 48 would try to put the pedal to the metal for a change
  5. Sycamore67
    I did not know that WD-40 is corrosive and wonder if that is true. I looked up the ingredients and found nothing corrosive and it contains some anti-corrosives. It does work to clean parts and should be followed up with a full lubricant.
  6. Sycamore67
    K & J Magnetics has great magnets and really strong ones. I also buy on eBay but you need to careful and read descriptions carefully.
  7. Sycamore67
    I am pretty certain the reason they do not offer digital patterns is due to people sharing patterns violating copyrights. While most of us would not do this, there are too many who would.
  8. Sycamore67
    I have a Hegner I bought used and added the quick clamp and tension release lever. I really like it but I do thicker puzzles and Intarsia. If you do mainly fretwork probably not the best saw for you. They never seen to wear out or knock or other things and parts are more available than others. Like all questions about what tools to buy, the first thing is what you are going to make
  9. Sycamore67
    I do not worry about drift or try to compensate for it. I concentrate on cutting on the line and turning the wood in whatever direction I need to do so. Sometimes with Intarsia, I cut on one side of the line or the other. If you cut every piece on the line, you will not get a good fit.
  10. Sycamore67
    For things like this I use a toothpick out gently in the crack to slightly open it and then another toothpick to put a little glue in it.
  11. Sycamore67
    I think you could easily glue it and would never see it. I use wood glue and get it into the crack carefully and then clamp using blue tape. Be careful not to get glue on top of it as it may show when you finish it.
  12. Sycamore67
    I have cut veneer by sandwiching between two 1 /8" BB pieces and cutting with a fine blade. Worked really well...
  13. Sycamore67
    My calculator is different 1/32" = 0 .03125" Then a third of it is 0 .01041666" I think the decimal point was off in a previous post.
  14. Sycamore67
    I always felt that they had too much fretwork. I like the Intarsia. But to each their own likes and dislikes. I let my subscription to for a number of reasons. The biggest one was some folks got there magazine a month or more before I got mine. I was always among the last. I also did not think the projects were ones I wanted to do and they had too many that required painting. I think it is only a matter of time before the magazine goes under.
  15. Sycamore67
    I have built a lot of sleds with different runners. I now use the Incra miter Sliders. They are more expensive but work great and you can adjust the fit to your miter slots. When I am done with the sled, I take the bars off and use them on another sled. With my saw and the miter sliders, I only use one of the slider bars. Note: sorry about the strange wording but spell check/autocorrect got me and I failed to see it.
  16. Sycamore67
    Yes, segmentation as it is cut mainly from one piece of wood. Eyes are a bit much and maybe to large and too white. The great thing is to experiment with various eye size and color. I have done Intarsia where I have made several different eyes until I found ones I like.
  17. Sycamore67
    I have a Hegner with the quick clamp and do not have the problem. Please post a picture of the blade.
  18. Sycamore67
    I think it is an interesting adaptation of a bandsaw and can see uses for it. However, it will be interesting to see the cost of blades and how long they last. A smaller 70-1/2 " long regular bandsaw blade with 1/8" width is about $16. Even with regular small bandsaw blades you need to be careful with setup and use not to break them. With the Pegas blades, I expect them to be more expensive and fragile.
  19. Sycamore67
    This bandsaw is likely great for the specific purpose of running smaller blades. If I had a need for it, I would buy it. Pegas seems to make very high quality things. I have a 16" bandsaw for resaw and heavier work . I also have a Rikon with the Carter Stabilizer and run a 3/16" blade and it works fine but still has limitations . For some work the Pegas would be nice but I do not have the room for a third bandsaw. I have thought about selling my 16" bandsaw and getting a 14" one. I just do not need to resaw anything real big. I find that resawing is more difficult than it sounds. One needs to carefully fine tune their saw and then run the pieces thru a planer. If I was resawing a lot a big saw would be great.
  20. Sycamore67
    On thicker wood, I use a skip tooth blade as they cut faster than a FDUR.
  21. Sycamore67
    I keep my upper clamp on my Hegner tightened down in the divot and do not have any problems.
  22. Sycamore67
    Nicely done on the clamp both the idea and making the part. I was involved in designing practices to make the 12L14 which is a low carbon resulfurized steel with lead added. It is a difficult grade of steel to make but machines easily.
  23. Sycamore67
    I looked on my regular computer and the browser translated it. The screen grab was from the video on the home page.
  24. Sycamore67
    Do you have the one on the left or right in the picture. I have the one on the left. I would like to have the one on the right.
  25. Sycamore67
    Not my hands but a screen grab. Www.hegner-gmbh.com.
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