Sycamore67

I found using the software that comes with scanners is typically terrible. I use a program called Vuescan and can easily scan to pdf or jpg very easily. I also use it for scanning photos. My scanner is not an 11 x 17 but it would be nice at times.

I agree with you about their patterns. Also, did not like the way they used grey to fill in the patterns and made it difficult to copy clearly. I asked them about just making the lines clear without the grey and got some stupid excuse. I could go on a real rant about them but will stop now. I stopped the subscription and their forum.

With some vacuums, the air flow cools the motor. However, with both my Ridgid and Festool there is still air coming out of vent areas and not getting hot. I do not know the cause of the change in sound when the hose is blocked.

Rather than add on to this thread, I started a new one called "Kerfuffle - Dust Collection - Vacs and Amps" which details the results of testing the amps of two vacuum cleaners with the hose open and blocked. And, yes the amps drop when you block the end of the hose.

There was recently a thread about dust collection and some comments came up concerning how hard a vac was working if the vacuum hose was blocked or closed down. Rather than adding on to that thread, I thought that I would post some test results that I obtained from two of my vacuums. In a recent post about dust collection, I mentioned that “With dust collectors, if you constrict it with a small diameter hose, it draws less amps.” And “The amount of current or work is related to the amount of air being moved.” I also included a graph with results from my dust collector. There were some who disagreed strongly. Since I did not have actual data from a vacuum or shop vac, I decided to do some testing with two different vacs. These were a Ridgid 6.0 hp 14 gal shop vac and a Festool CT26. I tested them with no hose and different hoses with them either blocked or open. I wanted to determine if the motor was working harder when you had a full open flow from a hose or when it was blocked. When you block the end of a hose it certainly sounds like it is working harder BUT..... I measured the amps using a clamp on ammeter and a line splitter that I bought on Amazon. The specific one that I used was Tekpower UT202A (Uni-Trend) Auto-ranging AC 600 Amp Clamp Meter with Tekpower Line Splitter M920. I also tried using a meter Poniie PN2000 Plug-in Kilowatt Electricity Usage Monitor Electrical Power Consumption Watt Meter Tester w/ Extension Cord. This can provide the volts, amps watts and power factor. It is a handy device to use to determine who much power a tool or fan is using. It will monitor the watts over a period of time and you can then calculate kilowatts and then the cost of running the tool. The results were consistent with all hoses and both vacuums. When you blocked the end of the hose, the amps dropped compared to having the end of the hose open. While it is making noise, it is not moving air and is doing less work. I got the same result no matter what instrument that I was using to measure the amps. While some may not agree with my results, you are free to do the same test yourself. If you get results that are different, I would be glad to compare the results and methods to understand the differences. (Please note that the voltage was more like 118 VAC rather than the 110 shown on the graphs.)

The attachment on my Hegner which transitions from the bellows hose to the Loc-Line is shown below. The wooden block is 1" x 1.5" x 2.5" and made of pine but any wood will do. One side has a barbed fitting with pipe threads on one end that are just screwed into the wooden block. The other side of the block with the Loc-Line is also drilled and the part screwed into it. The Loc-Line is available on Amazon for $8.24 and is part number 40413.

The PS Super Sharps are in my opinion the best cutting blade I have tried and the most expensive. I posted a comparison some time ago but cannot find it.

The connector from the white PVC to the Loc-Line to is a standard pipe thread. The Loc-Line one comes from them and you can see it either on their website or on Amazon. The connector on the bellows hose is a barbed connector with threads on the other side and the Loc-Line is similar but smaller than the one in the PVC. The block of wood with the stuff for the bellows part came from Mike's Workshop but you can make one. I will take a picture close up later today.

Unique and. Beautiful!

Hopefully, Rolf will post his thoughts as he has made a few and written articles about them.

I have a Dremel hooked with a flex shaft and use small sanding drums, carbide burrs, and all the other stuff. I have had no problems over 10+ years. I have mine hooked to an on/off foot switch. My main use has been Intarsia and small projects. Mine is certainly not c***.

I think everything on a Hegner is made to last forever and the cut out will never wear off. Hegner saws seem to last a long time with no problems.

You want to know why I suggested that? Because I have done it .....

Jim Finn that is a great idea.

Those are very nice. I am not ready for fall and what comes next..Brrr.

Maybe a silly question, but did you shake the can really well. I have gotten thin paint when not shaken really well.

Ok, I could launch a paper straw, paper airplane or a foam dart.

With a rubber band on it, I could launch a pencil.

Glad you are healing as that was nasty wound.

The best plans are gone when you actually start using it. All of my tools are on casters except my Hegner. I change my shop around constantly depending on what I am doing.

I cut some thick puzzles from Judy Peterson from 3/4" material. I tried to use blade thickness to determine how tight the pieces fit together. While the thickness was important the type and brand of blade and how the teeth are set was also important. For this use, the width of the saw kerf was critical and you can get different width needs from blades with the same thickness.

While I know that the graph that I showed is correct for my dust collectors, I do not know for certain that it applies to the shop vacuums which have a different type of motor. I ordered some parts which I will have on Friday and be able to run the tests. As I mentioned before, I have seen several graphs for different dust collectors which show the same type of variation of amps and flow. If people have doubts about my dust collector test results, I have published them on Lumberjocks forum with lots of graphs. You can read them if you are interested in my methodology and results here and here.

The last post was quite interesting but not correct. This data was taken during testing of my dust collector. I used a test pipe and constricted the flow using an funnel into the end of the pipe. By moving the funnel in and out, I was able to control the amount of “constriction” and therefore the flow of air. This is a common methodology for testing a dust collector. The air flow was obtained using a hot wire anemometer and a digital static pressure gauge. Flow readings were taken across the pipe in accordance with standard duct measurement procedures and multiple tests were done. At the same time, for each “constriction”, a current measurement was done with a clamp on meter. Also, the testing was done with various sized hoses and the data from the two types of tests were identical. The data that I obtained was very close to that from the mfg. It does not matter if I constrict the flow with the funnel test setup or with a hose, I still get the same amps for a given flow, cfm. You imply that I did not properly use the graph. Please explain exactly which law of thermodynamics you think I am breaking. While I have used thermodynamics extensively through my career, I have no idea what you are suggesting. Please, if you have some data on dust collectors which refutes what I have posted, please show it to the forum. Have you done similar testing?

The amount of current or work is related to the amount of air being moved. If you constrict the intake of a dust collector, you will move less air and the current will be lower. If you open up the intake of a dust collector, you move more air and the current will be higher. This is what my graph shows and what has been shown by a bunch of people who have measured it.

The chart I provided is very common with dust collectors. The amount of work it is doing is related to the amount of air it is pushing. When you constrict the flow, you reduce the amount of air being pushed reducing the amount of work and current. On a dust collector if you remove the filter and open up the inlet, you can risk burning up a motor.