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Sycamore67

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Everything posted by Sycamore67

  1. Sycamore67
    I have not tried the FD XL blades but did a comparison that I posted between the FD Polar, Pegas Modified Geometry an d PS Woods Super Sharps. I also did a test where I tested how far I could cut in 30 seconds in 1-1/4" thick red oak. The Super Sharps were the best cutting blade. I originally posted the exact results but someone said it was not an important test so I deleted it. Even though the modified geometry blades have some reverse teeth, they still cut well in my testing and better than the FD Polar blades. While the Super Sharps are significantly more expensive, they really cut well. When I get a chance, I will have to try the FD XL blades. I appreciate people posting these blade comparison. While everyone has a different machine and cuts differently, it is still good to have a good discussion about the differences.
  2. Sycamore67
    Very nicely done...should be well appreciated
  3. Sycamore67
    I guess this thread went a different direction. Maybe start a thread on eye problems and surgery.
  4. Sycamore67
    That is a wonderful piece of art.
  5. Sycamore67
    Well, I have cleaned my shop up after making ornaments and some puzzles as Christmas presents. I am thinking about what I want to try this next year. The number one think is the Screech Owl Intarsia by Kathy Wise using some Bocote wood I have saved. I also want to try a Schwibbogen pattern for next Christmas. What projects do others have in mind to try next year?
  6. Sycamore67
    I certainly am not interested in the sales route but that is me. Certainly, age is a factor and having a business to fall back on in case something happens is a great idea. I am glad he is doing well. When I read reviews, I take into account what people are doing with their saws. If you are cutting a zillion puzzles you need a tough and quick cutting saw. People who do fret work want a top feeder. So, the characteristics needed for one person are not necessarily those others want.
  7. Sycamore67
    I have read at times about people using larger knobs and stripping out the clamps. I do not know the construction of the various saw clamps but might be a consideration. On my Hegner, the clamps appear to be hardened steel so not much chance of stripping.
  8. Sycamore67
    It is always entertaining to read responses in a thread. I constantly have remind myself to take into consideration the poster's goals and location. The location is key to availability of wood and even tools. The poster's goals make a huge difference. There are some who post a lot about how many things they make and sell or how fast or not wanting to have to sand. That is not me and not really interested. But to them and some others of great interest. I ran my back side off for many years of a 24/7 production operation. Now, the scroll saw is a hobby and enjoy trying to make things I like or are challenging or making things for grandkids and friends. So, when discussion turns to saws, blades, woods, etc I try to understand the differences. I would not think of telling someone this should be a hobby but rather it is what each one wants to make it.
  9. Sycamore67
    Well done with excellent wood choices. The shaping is very good and brings a lifelike quality to it. I would glue first and the use either a gel type finish or wipe on finished. You will likely need to use small cotton swabs or tooth picks to finish in small areas.
  10. Sycamore67
    Very nicely done and the boxes are great.
  11. Sycamore67
    I do not have the Sand Flee but have a home made version. It does things a random orbit sander can not do. I use it for making boxes and smoothing out finger joint or dovetail corners. I use it for a lot of things. I People have all kinds of tools that they find useful to them. I would never tell anyone that a tool they bought and use regularly is a waste of money. It might not be useful to me but great for them. Rolf is very accomplished and experienced and to him it is a very useful tool.
  12. Sycamore67
    I hope the arthritis is your hands is OK after this.
  13. Sycamore67
    This is a great thread and catching dust at the source is the best. I have had a system like octoolguy for several years. I like the idea of running the loc line underneath the arm of my Hegner and probably will give that a try.
  14. Sycamore67
    Excellent work....you should be proud of your daughter and the nameplate.
  15. Sycamore67
    I used Watco Natural Danish Oil to start with. I use a Zip lock bag and put several ornaments in it and gentle shake. This gets finish into all the books. I wipe them off and hang them for a day or so. With some of the woods I need to lightly sand parts as the grain has raised. I then use spray shellac...two coats or so. The tiny insert pieces are sprayed with shellac from a distance. If too close they get blown around. The inserts are put in place and have to be held a bit while the 5 minute epoxy is setting. I hope to see something kind of like this that others try. I have given several of these and requests to sell them. I do not think I could charge enough considering the time especially to make the mini parts.
  16. Sycamore67
    You did a great job and looks great. LED lights are a good idea. You might look on Amazon for LED string lights. They have some mini one that work on a battery that are pretty cheap.
  17. Sycamore67
    Very well done especially as a first try. We will be watching as you try new things with it.
  18. Sycamore67
    I built one and made all the parts. It is powered by my Shopsmith. It cost me less than $50 to build.
  19. Sycamore67
    After I posted about the mini reindeer in an ornament, several people commented that they liked it. It got me to thinking about other things to add to similar ornaments. So I tried making a miniature tree and a star. This is the result. My thanks to those encouraging comments. This shows the value of the forum and people's comments.
  20. Sycamore67
    I understand everyone's frustrations. I would say that I would like to encourage any magazine, show or exhibition that supports our scroll sawing.
  21. Sycamore67
    I think that you could lots of different things inside such as a star, cross, Christmas tree and others. I just had the miniature reindeer and looking for a use. You would not need to compound cut it either. The miniature reindeer are a challenge for me. Using a contrasting wood seems to work well.
  22. Sycamore67
    Very nice
  23. Sycamore67
    You kind of need to figure out if there is a copyright issue or not. I try to be very careful about this because I owe it to the creators of the pattern. I just posted an ornament and was asked about providing the pattern. I got it from either a magazine or bought it online. In either case, the pattern is copyrighted. Would love to post the pattern but just not fair.
  24. Sycamore67
    I have to look where I got the ornament pattern. It was either from the scroll saw magazine or one I bought online. In either case, they are copyrighted material and I can not post them. The reindeer is the standard compound cut reindeer that appears in many places. I did greatly reduce it and play with the image to sharpen as much as possible. It is about 1/2" tall. I previously posted about how I made the mini-reindeer in a post called "Last of the Mini".
  25. Sycamore67
    I cut the compound ornament from Alder and the miniature Reindeer from Maple. The compound cut reindeer is about 1/2" tall and held inside the ornament with a small spot of epoxy glue.
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