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JimErn

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Everything posted by JimErn

  1. He has a computer driven plasma machine, does a lot of customer metal cutting in much larger sizes
  2. A friend cuts this out of metal, another friend powder coats it And I do the back drop.
  3. WD-40
  4. My name is Jim, I don't use my nickname here
  5. I'll agree with Frank, metric is intuitively easy. That said I am comfortable in both. But then again I was a military brat and retired myself too, so serving all over the world probably made me more familiar. What I find is funny, is the 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" ratchets, the square lug that extends from a metric ratchet is that SAE size. What I hate, like the bolts on my Ex-21 table leg to machine mounting, the bolt and nut head was metric but the threads were SAE. Now why in world would anyone special order a hybrid bolt as a manufacturer is beyond me.
  6. Great cutting but the second pic with the flag showing is stunning, kudo's
  7. I'm two years new to this too, and what I found helps the most is to stop watching video's of the "pro's" cutting something. (Sorry to those who spend the time doing that) I see the speed and accuracy they exhibit and it makes me want to do it too, when I find myself doing that, competing so to speak, that is when I have problems. I feed the piece slowly, probably drive a "pro" nuts watching, but I find I enjoy it more and there is less fuzzies to deal with when I am done.
  8. I agree, I find the ex to be a great machine too. Those vacuum holes and frets hanging up in them drove me nuts, I cut a piece of Masonite and mounted it to the cutting table, one hole for the blade. And Masonite waxes really well
  9. Yes. I do not have a band saw, which is what JT said he used, so I had to work around that limitation, centering the forestner bit is the key thing, I got lucky and thought that through from the start.
  10. JT thanks for make me think. I enjoyed figuring out how to do this, especially when I found a solid center golf ball! When those rubber bands started pouring out of the first one I drilled, just started the hell out of me. <smile>
  11. When I switched to pegas modified geometry I couldn't believe the difference in cutting a straight line, I was using FDUR, PMG is so much easier The other thing I found, is do not look at the line, where it is going I mean, look only at the line where the blade is. Using any other saw you look ahead at where you are going to cut, not with a scroll saw. Relax your shoulders, and breathe easy, that helps too
  12. Thanks JT, I found some solid ones and played around some, appreciate it. I played golf long ago then if just got too expensive for me. That golf ball display is beautiful.
  13. Thanks Katie
  14. Arrg JT, your pic of the golf ball clock got me interested. So. I make an impromptu jig to hold the ball, and chuck a 1 3/8 forester bit in the drill press, all is going fine, until, around 1/4 inch in ... pieces of rubber bands start pouring out, along with the rest of the core So my question if you don't mind, are you filling the golf ball with something, if so with what? I was using a titleist 3, surely all golf balls are made basically the same? Surprised me to no end, ROFL
  15. I have the HF drill press, have had it a number of years, no problems with it at all. It does have a depth stop setting you can use or remove as you wish. It also has the belt/stacked pulley arrangement for speeds, but if you are going to dedicate it to one drill bit, that should not really be an issue. It will hold in the chuck a 1/64th bit, smallest I have tried, might hold smaller ones I don't know. I am also considering whether to get another HF or a dremel plunge router attachment and use it for drilling holes - but then I would be changing out the dremel itself - unless I buy another dremel - sigh - decisions decisions
  16. I have three, my starter saw a porter cable, the daily use ex-21, and a friend stopped by, said he'd trade me an old delta scroll saw for a beer - price was too good to pass up.
  17. Iggy I took your pic from this thread, and used photoshop, just an idea
  18. Well its not quantifiable, but a martini glass with (colored) water and video will show vibrations for each install (old school test) <grin> Thanks for the clarification on the clamping system, it looked to me like the clamping screw was tapped into the nut we can see on the opposite side.
  19. Great work I would put, a horizontal portion of the flag across the bottom where the black background is
  20. Dang site is acting up and I can not get another good look, but I got to thinking It looks (looked) like the blade tightening screw is toward the front and the jaws actually clamp the blade, instead of the tightening screw clamping the blade as it is done now. That means the blade MUST be inserted from the bottom only, straight up into the clamp. Top feeders will not care, this is a deal breaker though for bottom feeders I would expect, it would be for me anyway.
  21. Color me confused. How is this an "upgrade"? I think of an upgrade as making something better. All I see here is the same old thing, redesigned smaller. The smaller redesign makes it cheaper to make I guess. Same plastic lever Only thing I see is that it looks like the blade clamp jaws actually clamp the blade - that will not induce stress in the material leading to eventual fatigue? Site says, less vibration - What has a properly mounted blade clamp to do with vibration? more working comfort - huh? Less mechanical stress - on what? Same mounting bolts as far as I see
  22. So if I understand what you are wanting to do, you will have a vendor listed in multiple categories? Clocks are another category
  23. Very nice and very nice clean cutting
  24. I like the grain to go up an down for a portrait, even if the art is a landscape oriented
  25. Welcome Skip, I'm in central Texas, these guys are great sources of info, don't hesitate to ask anything.
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